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Frequently Asked Sleeving Questions - Page 19

post #181 of 1109
I'm afraid you're probably right. The price of the crimper is going to keep some people out of the game, although I managed with the cheap one it's a major pita to use. It used to crimp power pins pretty good but I'll be danged if it isn't mangling them now. It really is a pos. So glad I went ahead and got one from Nils while they are available. Not really sure why he wants to stop selling them though. Once a design is smoothed out I can't imagine why making more is a problem unless his manufacturer isn't cooperating or quality control is bad and he's losing money/aggravated.
post #182 of 1109
Maybe he feels like he's wasting too much time on assembling and testing them. See, if I understand correctly, he won't comprise by selling them to customers untested, therefore he prefers to stop selling them all together than ship out an imperfect product.
Edited by adi518 - 9/10/12 at 11:26pm
post #183 of 1109
Hi Lutro0,

I have a question. How do you sleeve a SAS breakout cable? I would be interested in seeing how you do that because I will have two of those in my build.

Jeffinslaw
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post #184 of 1109
Quote:
Originally Posted by adi518 View Post

Maybe he fills like he's wasting too much time on ordering and testing them. See, if I understand correctly, he won't comprise by selling them to customers untested, therefore he prefers to stop selling them all together than ship out an imperfect product.
Maybe so. Nice that he tests each one and includes crimps done with each unit.
I really hope he changes his mind and continues to have them made. After trying his crimper it's just light years ahead of most, unless I guess you're willing to shell out major $$ for a Molex one.
Maybe someone else will pick up the ball and start making them for a decent price as Nils does.

On the other hand I'm assuming the Molex one has replaceable dies, and if were much younger and thought I was going to be doing this for many years to come, I would probably get the Molex at some point.
post #185 of 1109
At 200$ ? Yeh, I bet. smile.gif

If Nills is really going to stop making them, it's a must order.
post #186 of 1109
Quote:
Originally Posted by mandrix View Post

On the other hand I'm assuming the Molex one has replaceable dies, and if were much younger and thought I was going to be doing this for many years to come, I would probably get the Molex at some point.

Replacement dies will probably cost around $70, or the same as buying an MDPC-X crimper. That's based on what I've seen for similarly priced crimpers. But the Molex tool should last much longer than MDPC-X's.


Edited by nawon72 - 9/7/12 at 3:55pm
post #187 of 1109
Anyone have a feel for the lifespan of Nil's crimper if the larger crimp is only used on ATX style pins? I guess I'll continue to use my other crimper for power pins, although it's starting to really suck or my technique went all to crap.
post #188 of 1109
Quote:
Originally Posted by mandrix View Post

... I guess I'll continue to use my other crimper for power pins, although it's starting to really suck or my technique went all to crap.

It's also possible that the dies are out of alignment on your Hans Long crimper although I also got varying results with different manufacturers pins. If it's distorting one side of the wire or insulation crimp that previously worked OK then it's possibly out of alignment. I spent a long time trying to work out where I was going wrong before realising it was the tool that needed adjusting.

I get the best results with that tool by using ModSmart molex type pins and inserting them all the way into the tool so that the rear wings are snug against the narrow part of the die where the wire crimp is formed.
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post #189 of 1109
BE it's really crapping up the crimp over the insulation, instead of crimping it's almost "pushing" it back the other way and actually breaks the pin sometimes.
post #190 of 1109
Could you post a photo of what the crimp looks like?

This is what a pre-crimped ATX pin looks like if the MDPC-X tool is out of alignment:





And this is what it looks like after adjustment


Edited by Big Elf - 9/8/12 at 1:05pm
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