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Frequently Asked Sleeving Questions - Page 3

post #21 of 1109
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lutro0 View Post

To explain this more:
The difference between oem and custom cables is just about everything from the crimps to the type of wire used. A custom cable extension is made to fit and flow in the exact spot that it was meant to be in, while a oem cable was made to fit in every spot. The rainbow look is due to the cable being made to bend one way and is made specific for the case and mobo it is going to.
The reason its harder to do that with oem cables is that they have a specific pin out that is always different from maker to maker and they criss cross wires all over and you can only clean it up so much so it will never look like an extension that goes 1 to 1 pin straight across.
So even if you where to make a custom cable with an oem pin out - you could clean it up some but it would still not look like an extension.
I hope that answers some of it.
Awesome! Thanks for the kind words!

Ok - thanks for the good answer ! So how do you make a 1 to 1 pin straight across for a Seasonic X-850 with the weird psu-side 18 and 10 pin ATX connectors ? without using the Seasonic connectors ?
makes no sense thinking.gif

Or how do I make a whole set of sleeved cables without them being extensions, for a Seasonic X-850 ?
How cleaned up - or not - would such a cable harness look like ? I have a distinct pattern in mind for the top visible row of the ATX cables, with the bottom row being all black - guess I need to trace my ATX cables from pin to pin.

I would have used the complete cable sets that Corsair makes for their own line, but the ATX, 8 pin and peripherals do not match !
Edited by socketus - 5/29/12 at 4:08pm
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post #22 of 1109
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by samwiches View Post

I got a molex kit (Sunbeam) with the most ultimate garbage extractor tool, and I'm seeing now that a decent one just costs too much for me to use one time. frown.gif
Oh well. I still have an awesome color idea that I want for some extentions. Can I PM Lutro for a custom order?

Yea sadly those tool kits are not the greatest and the 20 dollar Original Molex Tool is worth every penny.

For custom sleeving orders please check out OCN's Artisan Section : http://www.overclock.net/f/260/overclock-net-artisans
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lu(ky View Post

Question I have a Seasonic X650 GOLD PSU and would like to sleeve it WITHOUT the heatsrink like many of the pictures I've seen from your threads. Do you have a video or can you explain on how to sleeve without the heatshrink..
Thanks

There is a thread in this section that will give you a basic understanding of it, but yes I will be making a video for paracord and MDPC as soon as I get moved into my new home.
Quote:
Originally Posted by socketus View Post

Ok - thanks for the good answer ! So how do you make a 1 to 1 pin straight across for a Seasonic X-850 with the weird psu-side 18 and 10 pin ATX connectors ? without using the Seasonic connectors ?
makes no sense thinking.gif
Or how do I make a whole set of sleeved cables without them being extensions, for a Seasonic X-850 ?
How cleaned up - or not - would such a cable harness look like ? I have a distinct pattern in mind for the top visible row of the ATX cables, with the bottom row being all black - guess I need to trace my ATX cables from pin to pin.
I would have used the complete cable sets that Corsair makes for their own line, but the ATX, 8 pin and peripherals do not match !

Yea sadly thats the point. You cannot make them 1-1 as it has double wires as well as double plugs, so the best you can do is clean it up. It will not look terrible as most will be behind the case but you will have to really work on the 24pin side right by the motherboard to get it to clean up and rainbow, its not impossible just really hard.

The corsair kit is just for the series it was made for as well.

Lots of people have done it and it takes alot of work but you will be proud of the job you have done if you take your time.
post #23 of 1109

Daaaamn. Too bad you can't be artisan and sleeving editor.

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post #24 of 1109
Hey bud I have question... what size heatshrink should i buy for paracord. 1/8 or 3/8.and are the
combo kits any good.
post #25 of 1109
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by nvidiaftw12 View Post

Daaaamn. Too bad you can't be artisan and sleeving editor.

True, but I am not the only knowledgeable sleever on this forum. However I will continue to add content and answer sleeving questions none the less. thumb.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by metaldox View Post

Hey bud I have question... what size heatshrink should i buy for paracord. 1/8 or 3/8.and are the
combo kits any good.

No combo kit is good. Its always better to buy separate to make sure you get what you need. (none that I have seen that is)

For paracord I see 1/4 3:1 Thinwalled or 1/4 4:1 Thinwalled to be the best. Finding good heatshrink is a hard task, MDPC although hard to order right now hands down has the best precut heatshrink out there right now. I would highly suggest ordering it from them - however I posted a link to a cheap and decent source for non-precut under the heatshrink part of the faq.
post #26 of 1109
Thread Starter 
Also! Two new questions added, they will be updated and more info added as I find time. thumb.gif

Quote:
PSU Types – Modular, Semi-Modular or Non-Modular?

In this section I hope to break down the basics for choosing a PSU to sleeve and the advantages and disadvantages of each type.

1. Fully Modular - A fully modular PSU is a PSU that has fully disconnecting cables. These are the number one choice for sleevers and modders as it makes cleaning up a computer easy and sleeving effective and easier.

Advantages: The advantages to this are clear - each cable can be removed and then sleeved and only the cables you want can be used. One thing to keep in mind is that the pinout (cable arrangement) is set by the PSU maker on the PSU side, what I mean by this is that all PSU makers use their own pin out on the end that plugs into the powersupply. For this reason cables cannot be switched from PSU to PSU unless it is the same PSU or PSU model family. (and sometimes even this is not true) Each PSU maker lists or will make available the pinout if asked or looked on their site. Also using a modular PSU gives you the ability to easily make custom length cables by making your own.

Disadvantages: You have an OEM pin out and most likely split wires that will need to be made into a Y split to get rid of double wires. Also you have two ends that will need to be cleaned up and sleeved perfect so attention to detail is a must.

2. Semi-Modular - A Semi-Modular PSU is a PSU that has a both hardwired and cables that can be removed. Typically the hardwired cables are the 24pin and an 8pin eps.

Advantages: The advantages to this are not having to clean up both ends of the cable for the 24pin and 8pin eps. It also still allows you to remove the cables you will not use.

Disadvantages: Losing your warranty due to the limited options on sleeving methods. Takes a bit more work to get a clean result.

3. Non-Modular - A Non-Modular PSU is a PSU that has hardwired cables.

Advantages: The advantages to this are not having to clean up both ends of the cable for the 24pin and 8pin eps.

Disadvantages: Losing your warranty due to the limited options on sleeving methods. Takes a bit more work to get a clean result. Hard to work with huge bundle of wires and hard to route and clean up.

There is only two ways to sleeve a Non-Modular and Semi-Modular PSU.


How to sleeve a Non-Modular and Semi-Modular PSU. – How to sleeve a PSU that has hardwired cables?


It is relatively simple to sleeve a Non-Modular and Semi-Modular powersupply. You only have two options to pick from:

a. Keep your warranty - You will sleeve and shrink the cables up to the area where the cables enter the PSU and then use a larger piece of heatshrink to sleeve them all together. (a zip tie under the heatshrink is typically used to hold them in place) This allows you to keep your warranty (contact psu maker to make sure) but looks kinda ugly if you can see your powersupply through your window.

b. Kill your warranty - In this method you simply remove the cover to your PSU and then sleeve the cables up inside of the PSU so that the cables are heatshrunk inside of the psu cover and then using a zip tie on the inside of the PSu to secure them. This method is by far the best and will look professional and clean. Please be careful when working inside of a PSU as the capacitors will hold enough of a charge to shock the crud out of you. Also please note that you may need to widen the hole where the cables enter as once you sleeve them the bundle will be thicker. You can terminate cables you will not use by unsoldering them inside the psu or simply cutting them and sealing the ends - but please only attempt this if you are sure of what you are doing.
post #27 of 1109

Can you include the part numbers for the connectors?

post #28 of 1109
do you have a tutorial on how to sleeve those dual cables to easily fit the plastic caps? very informative thread though thumb.gif
    
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post #29 of 1109
So lutro0, how do you get the wires to rainbow perfectly and keep them from tangling together? I know the outside row of wires needs to be longer than the inside, but when I sleeved with paracord they just seemed to jumble together in a big mess. Are you just pulling the sleeve really tight?
post #30 of 1109
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by nawon72 View Post

Can you include the part numbers for the connectors?

I will get on it, nawon. I think BE has most of them so I will ask for his help.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rye26 View Post

do you have a tutorial on how to sleeve those dual cables to easily fit the plastic caps? very informative thread though thumb.gif

I dont at this moment, however I am going to add Ontics guide into the FAQ. Trying to wait to get his approval but I don't think hes been on in a long time. So I might just add it for now. Search for Ontics Sleeving guide and check from step 16.
Quote:
Originally Posted by S3ason View Post

So lutro0, how do you get the wires to rainbow perfectly and keep them from tangling together? I know the outside row of wires needs to be longer than the inside, but when I sleeved with paracord they just seemed to jumble together in a big mess. Are you just pulling the sleeve really tight?

I do pull the sleeving really tight and I work the wires allot to get them to stay together. It also has to do with how I keep the crimps straight. But it really comes down to practice.
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