Frequently Asked Sleeving Questions - Page 3

Originally Posted by samwiches 

I got a molex kit (Sunbeam) with the most ultimate garbage extractor tool, and I'm seeing now that a decent one just costs too much for me to use one time.
Oh well. I still have an awesome color idea that I want for some extentions. Can I PM Lutro for a custom order?

Originally Posted by Lu(ky 

Question I have a Seasonic X650 GOLD PSU and would like to sleeve it WITHOUT the heatsrink like many of the pictures I've seen from your threads. Do you have a video or can you explain on how to sleeve without the heatshrink..
Thanks

Originally Posted by socketus 

Ok - thanks for the good answer ! So how do you make a 1 to 1 pin straight across for a Seasonic X-850 with the weird psu-side 18 and 10 pin ATX connectors ? without using the Seasonic connectors ?
makes no sense
Or how do I make a whole set of sleeved cables without them being extensions, for a Seasonic X-850 ?
How cleaned up - or not - would such a cable harness look like ? I have a distinct pattern in mind for the top visible row of the ATX cables, with the bottom row being all black - guess I need to trace my ATX cables from pin to pin.
I would have used the complete cable sets that Corsair makes for their own line, but the ATX, 8 pin and peripherals do not match !

Originally Posted by nvidiaftw12 

Daaaamn. Too bad you can't be artisan and sleeving editor.

Originally Posted by metaldox 

Hey bud I have question... what size heatshrink should i buy for paracord. 1/8 or 3/8.and are the
combo kits any good.

PSU Types – Modular, Semi-Modular or Non-Modular? In this section I hope to break down the basics for choosing a PSU to sleeve and the advantages and disadvantages of each type.

1. Fully Modular - A fully modular PSU is a PSU that has fully disconnecting cables. These are the number one choice for sleevers and modders as it makes cleaning up a computer easy and sleeving effective and easier.

Advantages: The advantages to this are clear - each cable can be removed and then sleeved and only the cables you want can be used. One thing to keep in mind is that the pinout (cable arrangement) is set by the PSU maker on the PSU side, what I mean by this is that all PSU makers use their own pin out on the end that plugs into the powersupply. For this reason cables cannot be switched from PSU to PSU unless it is the same PSU or PSU model family. (and sometimes even this is not true) Each PSU maker lists or will make available the pinout if asked or looked on their site. Also using a modular PSU gives you the ability to easily make custom length cables by making your own.

Disadvantages: You have an OEM pin out and most likely split wires that will need to be made into a Y split to get rid of double wires. Also you have two ends that will need to be cleaned up and sleeved perfect so attention to detail is a must.

2. Semi-Modular - A Semi-Modular PSU is a PSU that has a both hardwired and cables that can be removed. Typically the hardwired cables are the 24pin and an 8pin eps.

Advantages: The advantages to this are not having to clean up both ends of the cable for the 24pin and 8pin eps. It also still allows you to remove the cables you will not use.

Disadvantages: Losing your warranty due to the limited options on sleeving methods. Takes a bit more work to get a clean result.

3. Non-Modular - A Non-Modular PSU is a PSU that has hardwired cables.

Advantages: The advantages to this are not having to clean up both ends of the cable for the 24pin and 8pin eps.

Disadvantages: Losing your warranty due to the limited options on sleeving methods. Takes a bit more work to get a clean result. Hard to work with huge bundle of wires and hard to route and clean up.

There is only two ways to sleeve a Non-Modular and Semi-Modular PSU.


How to sleeve a Non-Modular and Semi-Modular PSU. – How to sleeve a PSU that has hardwired cables?

It is relatively simple to sleeve a Non-Modular and Semi-Modular powersupply. You only have two options to pick from:

a. Keep your warranty - You will sleeve and shrink the cables up to the area where the cables enter the PSU and then use a larger piece of heatshrink to sleeve them all together. (a zip tie under the heatshrink is typically used to hold them in place) This allows you to keep your warranty (contact psu maker to make sure) but looks kinda ugly if you can see your powersupply through your window.

b. Kill your warranty - In this method you simply remove the cover to your PSU and then sleeve the cables up inside of the PSU so that the cables are heatshrunk inside of the psu cover and then using a zip tie on the inside of the PSu to secure them. This method is by far the best and will look professional and clean. Please be careful when working inside of a PSU as the capacitors will hold enough of a charge to shock the crud out of you. Also please note that you may need to widen the hole where the cables enter as once you sleeve them the bundle will be thicker. You can terminate cables you will not use by unsoldering them inside the psu or simply cutting them and sealing the ends - but please only attempt this if you are sure of what you are doing.

Originally Posted by nawon72 

Can you include the part numbers for the connectors?

Originally Posted by Rye26 

do you have a tutorial on how to sleeve those dual cables to easily fit the plastic caps? very informative thread though

Originally Posted by S3ason 

So lutro0, how do you get the wires to rainbow perfectly and keep them from tangling together? I know the outside row of wires needs to be longer than the inside, but when I sleeved with paracord they just seemed to jumble together in a big mess. Are you just pulling the sleeve really tight?