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Frequently Asked Sleeving Questions - Page 52

post #511 of 1090
Thanks Big Elf

Will the thicker insulation be ok with the MDPC crimper and crimps? Nils suggests a maximum diameter of 2.2mm and nothing above that.

I may just get 10m of the thinner wire to play with and see how it goes. I can always order the thicker stuff if I'm not happy with the look. A rough calculation of how much wire I would need for all the cables came to about 8m so doubling that to be extra safe would mean I could get away with 2 x 10m reels.

I've also not totally ruled out trying to sleeve the cables but in a case as small as the SG05 I'm not sure how tidy I can make it look as I've never done it before.
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post #512 of 1090
Actually, after looking at the case you'd probably be better with the thinner wire as it'll be easier to work with in a confined area.

I think Nils is referring to 16AWG wire which has a thicker inner core. The 24/0.2 with the thicker insulation has a thinner inner core than even 18AWG. So far, it hasn't damaged my crimper after about 200 metres of it.
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post #513 of 1090
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mitch311 View Post

Nils suggests a maximum diameter of 2.2mm and nothing above that.
...
I've also not totally ruled out trying to sleeve the cables but in a case as small as the SG05 I'm not sure how tidy I can make it look as I've never done it before.



This ATX24 cable above is for an SG05 with modular ST45SF-G PSU. Those white wires are 2.3mm and worked fine with MDPC crimper.

I tried also with the standard SG05 PSU (see below). I made two extra holes for PCIe and Sata wires but when sleeving it I got frustrated trying to get them all the exact right length and finally just bought the modular PSU.

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post #514 of 1090
Thread Starter 
New Section Added

How Do I De-Pin My PSU Pins?
– How do I get the wires out of the connectors without damaging, what is the best tool? Click to Expand (Click to show)


This question has been a long time coming and for a large part seems to be one of the hardest things for a sleever to get down. Everyone at one time seems to have a problem with this.

I want to say first off, that please please please! DO NOT waste your money on the de-pinning kits out there. While they all have the basic intentions right they all all not even comparable to the Original Molex Tool. The Original Molex Tool was made by Molex just for the removal of the ATX terminals we use. Its made of high tool quality metal and will last you a life time if you take care of it. Further more, there is only 3 tools you will ever need for de-pinning anything in your computer.

1. The Original Molex Extractor - http://lutro0-customs.com/products/original-molex-extractor
2. A Round 4Pin Molex Extractor - http://lutro0-customs.com/products/round-4pin-extractor
3. A run of the mill exacto knife with a pointed tip. (the exacto knife is used to pull up any of the tap type connectors)


That tool set will last you longer, make your jobs easier, and in the long run cost you less then any other tool on the market.

Before going any further I suggest you give a look at my MDPC Video Guide starting at time: 2:46 - this is where I show exactly how to use the tool and how to handle the problem wires. This is the best method for handling them. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fdckzRWFijM

If you watch the video you will see that my Original Molex Tool is slightly tweaked to be wider then how they come originally - this is a tweak I do to help get the tool on the outside of the pin.



The instructions are simple:

1. Insert the Molex Tool making sure to have both prongs on the outside of the terminal on the inside.
2. Push the wire up into connector while pushing down on the tool to make sure its all the way in.
3. While makeing sure the tool is still all the way in pull out the wire. (sometimes you make need to pull with some force as some terminals dig into the connector as this is how the PSU maker has made them.

This method will ALWAYS work, sometimes you may need allot more pull force then you think you should need but as long as you keep the wire straight so your pulling force is straight out of the connector you will be fine. If you need to repeat the steps and try again.

Allot of people also ask how do I remove the male terminals from the male connectors. It is done exactly the same way.

1. Insert your Molex Tool the same direction as the wings on the terminal and from the front side push the tool in untill it falls into the grooves for de-pinning. This can be frustrating as you can see them while you do this - but you will feel when it goes in. It just takes a little moving around.
2. Pull out wire while tool is pushed in.

And lastly we will cover the Round 4pin Extractor.

The Round 4pin Extractor needs little explanation as you simple use the right end to put over the round pin and then pull it out.

I will cover the Exacto Knife in another section as it needs allot of pictures to fully explain. But the simple rule with the Knife is that if it has a tab slightly lift it and pull the wire out, and if it doesn't have a tab you need to push down on the top part of the metal pin exposed on the side and push down to slide the pin out with the knife. But I will show you how when I update next.
post #515 of 1090
I can't put in words all I've learned, enjoyed and how helpful all your tuts, guides and live streams have been. Mike (Lutro0) your a massive asset to the community. Thank You, I only hope I can be some help to your mission in return ~~~ Al
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post #516 of 1090
Thread Starter 
Two new Sections for the FAQ!

Can I Sleeve An SLI Bridge?
– Can you sleeve one and what do you need to do it? Click to Expand (Click to show)

This is another question I get frequently, Nothing is more of an eyesore then an sli bridge that is not painted or that doesn't match the system it is in.

First things first, I want to share a video on one of the way this can be done by Alexander van der Linde If you haven't heard of his YouTube Channel I suggest you check it out.
http://www.youtube.com/user/alexvdl1?feature=watch

Here is his video on a clean and unique method for getting this task done:

Now this is only one method.

The basics of getting this task done are simply finding a sleeve that will go over the bridge and still compress down to look good. Also you want a heatshrink that you can stretch or have an exact size that will fit as well.

Now because there is so many different kinds of sleeving and I have seen it accomplished with just about 20 different kinda of sleeve and heatsrhink I will only provide the basic way of figuring out what you need:

One quick tip before we get started, just because your motherboard or gpu came with a bridge doesnt mean you need to use that one if its hard to sleeve. They can be purchased everywhere or gotten for free from OCN members.

1. Measure the diameter of the end of bridge (imagine you have a big circle - whats the smallest diameter circle you will need to get it over the end.

2. Now that you have that circle you need to find a sleeve that will STRETCH TO THE CIRCLE SIZE - DO NOT BUY THE SAME SIZE AS YOUR NEEDED CIRCLE! If you do that then you will not be able to collapse the sleeve enough to make it look like a tight weave. (cheap black sleeving can be bought by Barry (furryletters) on eBay check out his shop and look for clean cut, remember to call him and he will give you a better price)

3. Find some heatshrink that is a little bit under your circle so that you have to stretch it to make it fit, this will ensure a tight grip on the sleeve and bridge - make sure you at least have 3:1 or higher and not glue lined.

4. Stretch the HS with a needle nose pliers slowly until it fits.

5. Follow normal sleeving procedures.

Here is an example of finished work, I take no credit for the following pic and all credit is due to the maker:



Of course there is more then one way here to make your sli bridge look nice:

1. Vinyl Film:






2. Paint.


3. Anything Really


For reference here is a pic of a small selection of types of sli bridges.


So I hope that helps, there is so many different ways to do things when modding. And when sleeving odd shaped things always keep in mind if there is sharp corners try to use a file and make them not so sharp or use a little tape.

How Do I Sew My Cables? 
- How do I sew my sleeved cables to get them to stay in place.? Click to Expand (Click to show)

I personally have never done this so I will be leaving the answer to this question to FrankNSteinPC. If you have not checked him out on Youtube yet please check his channel at: www.youtube.com/FrankNSteinPC

I have gotten his permission to post his videos on here for you, he is a great guy if you get a chance to meet him I suggest you do. Also his Mods are beautiful, if you find the time check them out.



Also here is another video, that I found to be very informative as well:

post #517 of 1090
Quote:
Originally Posted by WiSK View Post

Snip (Click to show)
This ATX24 cable above is for an SG05 with modular ST45SF-G PSU. Those white wires are 2.3mm and worked fine with MDPC crimper.

I tried also with the standard SG05 PSU (see below). I made two extra holes for PCIe and Sata wires but when sleeving it I got frustrated trying to get them all the exact right length and finally just bought the modular PSU. Snip (Click to show)


Thanks WiSK smile.gif
Received my MDPC crimper in the mail today and managed a perfect crimp on my first try with the 2mm wire. I think I will try and get some of the thicker wire for a comparison.

The modular PSU is next on my shopping list so that I can get an idea of what looks good when a cable is complete. I might even try sleeving the cables, yours looks great. Leaving the case until last as Silverstone will be releasing the SG05B without a PSU in April / May at hopefully a reduced price. (I emailed them about selling an SG05 with the modular PSU and that was their reply)
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post #518 of 1090
Do You have any ways to cut wire perfectly on the length You wanted? I thought about making a hole in long wooden plank, which is perfectly diameter of the cable (maybe a little bit larger). Would it make its job?
post #519 of 1090
Metal ruler, measure three times, cut once smile.gif
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post #520 of 1090
seeing as my antec hcp 1000w has double wiring, can i avoid dealing with that and use 1 to 1 custom cables? will it effect performance if i choose to not use the oem wires?
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