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Frequently Asked Sleeving Questions - Page 66

post #651 of 1034
I already have a bunch of your thin 16 but I haven't used it yet. The only experience I've had with crimping on 16 AWG was when i was making my pinout for the 24-Pin and a cpl times the pin got stuck and the 16 AWG wire ripped out of the pin, so i had to recrimp a new connector on. I'm still new to crimping, so the stock 16 on PSU was challenging. That's what i was referring to about getting the strands to line up

Big Elf, The Knipex stripper is pretty much the only investment i haven't made yet as far as sleeving. I'm still using the Vise brand automatic stripper i got from Home Depot. It's the cheaper one Lutro sells at his shop
I plan on ordering the Knipex next time i order from Lutro. Probly when the red Telios comes out I'll order that plus a bunch more wire. Last time i ordered I only had so much to spend so i couldn't grab the stripper
Edited by kpoeticg - 10/6/13 at 12:53pm
    
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post #652 of 1034
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lutro0 View Post

1. I can place the pin in the direction I want for making extensions and custom cables. This makes a huge difference and alot of people over look it.
2. I can make sure the crimp is perfect, for example I will know the wire is all the way in as far as it can go and because even the smallest bit of being off shows on extensions with a rainbow - I need to make sure that I didnt measure the wire 3 times for nothing. =D But I am a bit more meticulous then others when it comes to wire making.

Either way works great. But I find with thicker guages that I personally like to work with that if I try that method I dont know for sure if the wire is all the way in. And I hate to waste a good wire by recrimping it if its off.

I'm holding the crimper with the pin in it, so I know which way it's oriented.

It seems to me you introduce more variables by measuring the whole wire, then measuring how much to strip it, then trying to get that exactly lined up. If you let the insulation be your guide, then the number of things to measure is reduced and so the accuracy is increased.

I put the wire in and the V stops the insulation, so as long as I've measured the length of the insulation correctly, I know that from pin to pin, the wire will have an exact length. The length of the pin from V to end is static. It doesn't then matter if 3mm or 4mm of bare wire is showing, because I'm using the insulation as a guide instead of the wire. But as soon as the crimps are on, the insulation won't stretch anymore because the wire holds that exact length.



You know A (12.4mm), so by using the V of the inner wings to stop the insulation you know the exact length of the wire from pin end to pin end, with only one measurement: B.
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post #653 of 1034
Quote:
Originally Posted by WiSK View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lutro0 View Post

1. I can place the pin in the direction I want for making extensions and custom cables. This makes a huge difference and alot of people over look it.
2. I can make sure the crimp is perfect, for example I will know the wire is all the way in as far as it can go and because even the smallest bit of being off shows on extensions with a rainbow - I need to make sure that I didnt measure the wire 3 times for nothing. =D But I am a bit more meticulous then others when it comes to wire making.

Either way works great. But I find with thicker guages that I personally like to work with that if I try that method I dont know for sure if the wire is all the way in. And I hate to waste a good wire by recrimping it if its off.

I'm holding the crimper with the pin in it, so I know which way it's oriented.

It seems to me you introduce more variables by measuring the whole wire, then measuring how much to strip it, then trying to get that exactly lined up. If you let the insulation be your guide, then the number of things to measure is reduced and so the accuracy is increased.

I put the wire in and the V stops the insulation, so as long as I've measured the length of the insulation correctly, I know that from pin to pin, the wire will have an exact length. The length of the pin from V to end is static. It doesn't then matter if 3mm or 4mm of bare wire is showing, because I'm using the insulation as a guide instead of the wire. But as soon as the crimps are on, the insulation won't stretch anymore because the wire holds that exact length.



You know A (12.4mm), so by using the V of the inner wings to stop the insulation you know the exact length of the wire from pin end to pin end, with only one measurement: B.

In my case it's because when I insert the wire into the crimp in the tool I can't get it orientated perfectly in line with the crimp at the other end of the wire that I can with inserting the wire into the pin when it's pre-crimped. You're lucky in that you have the skill to do that but I can't get 100% results guaranteed every time whereas I can 99.9% of the time with the pre-crimping method. I bin my failures the other 0.1% of the time.
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post #654 of 1034
Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Elf View Post

In my case it's because when I insert the wire into the crimp in the tool I can't get it orientated perfectly in line with the crimp at the other end of the wire that I can with inserting the wire into the pin when it's pre-crimped. You're lucky in that you have the skill to do that but I can't get 100% results guaranteed every time whereas I can 99.9% of the time with the pre-crimping method. I bin my failures the other 0.1% of the time.

Yes it's true: whatever you are comfortable with is best method. I'm just trying to introduce a new idea smile.gif
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post #655 of 1034
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by WiSK View Post

I'm holding the crimper with the pin in it, so I know which way it's oriented.

It seems to me you introduce more variables by measuring the whole wire, then measuring how much to strip it, then trying to get that exactly lined up. If you let the insulation be your guide, then the number of things to measure is reduced and so the accuracy is increased.

I put the wire in and the V stops the insulation, so as long as I've measured the length of the insulation correctly, I know that from pin to pin, the wire will have an exact length. The length of the pin from V to end is static. It doesn't then matter if 3mm or 4mm of bare wire is showing, because I'm using the insulation as a guide instead of the wire. But as soon as the crimps are on, the insulation won't stretch anymore because the wire holds that exact length.



You know A (12.4mm), so by using the V of the inner wings to stop the insulation you know the exact length of the wire from pin end to pin end, with only one measurement: B.

We think the same way as I do that in my last step It may be an extra step but it has effectively stopped any uneven wires., I make my first measurement of just blank wires, then measure out my different length wires using guide wires with one side crimped. Then I let the wire stripper and its stripping length be the final guide - so when I goto crimp it I make sure its all the way in. Its great to see how everyone looks at it a little differently. thumb.gif
post #656 of 1034
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lutro0 View Post

Its great to see how everyone looks at it a little differently. thumb.gif

Indeed thumb.gif

Here's a video with me mumbling. I used cheap wire strippers and was sloppy with marking the length, so it could have been better accuracy, but I wanted to show how well it can go when using the V of the wings and only clicking once on the crimper. Pretty quick too once you get going.

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post #657 of 1034
Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Elf View Post

I don't know if you'd noticed but there's quite a few Video Sleeving Guide links at the top of the forum.

Would you like constructive criticism or would you prefer blissful ignorance?

With information comes knowledge. I know Lutro0 has videos but everyone finds their own methods to do things, and all I did was look two pages back and saw nothing but questions so I thought my video may help. Considering I make YouTube videos I thought maybe the quality would be better as well, and as far as promoting myself to avoid a fee for a sleeving business that I do not have is negligible.
post #658 of 1034
Quote:
Originally Posted by MillerModPCs View Post


With information comes knowledge. I know Lutro0 has videos but everyone finds their own methods to do things, and all I did was look two pages back and saw nothing but questions so I thought my video may help. Considering I make YouTube videos I thought maybe the quality would be better as well, and as far as promoting myself to avoid a fee for a sleeving business that I do not have is negligible.

Funnily enough a large number of question are because people don't look at the video sleeving guides or even attempt to read or search anything in any of the threads. The number of repeat questions being asked over and over again is unbelievable.
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post #659 of 1034
Quote:
Originally Posted by WiSK View Post

Indeed thumb.gif

Here's a video with me mumbling. I used cheap wire strippers and was sloppy with marking the length, so it could have been better accuracy, but I wanted to show how well it can go when using the V of the wings and only clicking once on the crimper. Pretty quick too once you get going.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


Nice vid man. Thanx for posting it. And you only ended up with a little over 1mm of "Egg on your Face" so I'd say SUCCESS thumb.gif
    
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post #660 of 1034
Quote:
Originally Posted by kpoeticg View Post


Nice vid man. Thanx for posting it. And you only ended up with a little over 1mm of "Egg on your Face" so I'd say SUCCESS thumb.gif

Cheers smile.gif

I measured it again off camera and the wire was 79.1mm so 0.9mm egg. The insulation was exactly 54.0 mm, so that means when crimped the insulation to pin end must be around 12.55mm when using this method. Could make another one to check but have put the tools away now.
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