I cannot count how many times I get asked that question. Sadly there is not a perfect answer to it as the powersupply list is constantly changing. However there is two series and 1 or two powersupplies that I can most truly recommend.
But before I do that let me explain what constitutes a bad powersupply and why a powersupply would be better than others (in terms of sleeving).
When you sleeve a powersupply you want a fully modular powersupply, the reason for this is you can custom make your own cables and not have to open the powersupply and really make the cables fit into your case exactly how you want. This means not having a ton of extra cable behind your case to mess with and only using the number of cables you need to use.
Why then you ask would any fully modular powersupply be better then another. Two words: Double wires. Anyone who has had to sleeve a double wire will tell you that it is the most aggravating thing about sleeving. That’s because you have (should) splice the wire somewhere where it will be hidden so that you only have single wires going into the connector. Now some may try to stuff a double wire into those connectors but this is IMO poor form. When you stuff two wires into the connector beside otherwise single wires the fat double wire look out of place and you lose that symmetrical look of everything being uniform and looking neat. Besides the fact that it’s a pain in the butt to get the pin to latch and more than likely it will look bunched. Also when you eliminate the double wires you also get rid of the strange 8pin eps/24pin combos that some powersuppply makers use.
So the stuff that makes up a good powersupply to sleeve or in other words easier is a fully modular powersupply that does not have double wires (or very few) and has a relatively easy pinout and little to no caps/ferrite beads.
You may have heard of the term 1 to 1 or 1-1 powersupply. What this implies is that the cables go from one pin to another with no double on the other side. This is also a term for a extension-like pinout.
So whats a pin out? A pin out in powersupply terms is how the PSU maker electricaly designed the layout for the pins on the powersupply. PSU makers have proprietary set ups on the powersupply side and this is a reason we see all sorts of strange double wires, connectors and the sorts – because it is totally up to the PSU maker to make this how they think it should be and how it can make the PSU more stable. However, on the motherboard side it is always the same as they have to follow the 24pin ATX version 2.0 or the 20pin ATX Version 1.0 standard which is a 24/20 pin layout with the voltages and sense wires always the same. (While we are on this you may notice some powersupplies only using 23 pins with one missing, this is fine as it’s still the ATX standard and is not needed and a little Protip is that most of the time including a fake wire for this spot will clean it up and give you a full 24pin once again.)
Caps and ferrite beads are another huge pain for sleevers. PSU makers add these to keep in spec and to clean up and stabilize the power output from the PSU, in most cases with a good PSU these can be removed with little to no effect. But the chance that they will in extreme settings is always there. (Protip: Ferrite beads can be removed by either breaking them with a hammer or simply sliding them off)
Now that you have an understanding of what makes a good/easy powersupply to sleeve lets break down a few suggestions and why I recommend them.Corsair AX 1200 / 1200I
Now I know you are already asking why not the rest of the AX series from Corsair. The reason for this is the Corsair AX line is basically a Seasonic PSU / One or two other makers rebranded for Corsair. This means they will follow the 20/10 or the likes pinout with mucho double wires. This means a advanced sleeving time with double wires.
However the AX1200 / 1200I is made differently, the 1200/1200i uses a 10/14 to 24pin as well as the rest of the cables being single with the exception of maybe a few. This makes it desirable for easy sleeving. Also to boot the unit itself is of good review and is otherwise pure black and ready for any theme with a covering of a custom sticker.Corsair RM Series
The Corsair RM series has no double wires on the 24pin and no caps on anything. This to date looks to be one of the easiest Powersupplies to sleeve on the market. Plus the prices for these units are fair.Cooler Master Silent Pro Hybrid Series ( 1050W, 1300W, 850W)
Once again these powersupplies are of good review and the color scheme is not intrusive for modding and the cables are a 24pin to 24pin as well as the others. Now you will notice some of the cables use the ribbon configuration, this is not a problem as you can simply tear apart the cables once you have started a small cut.Silverstone Strider Gold, Plus, and Evolution Series
I could list all of them but there are many and there is a few in there that still have double wires, so I say this disclaimer that you look up photos of the powersupply and look at the pinout to get a positive double check that yours does not have double wires.
Typically if the Strider PSU you pick out has a few blue connector sockets on it, then it does not have double wires or very little.
Most of the Silverstone Striders have positive reviews and for those of us that have been sleeving for a while have done a few of these and are the staple for powersupplies that you intend to sleeve for a mod.
With the exception of the blue sockets this PSU is great for any color scheme when sleeving. They all use a 24pin to 24pin.
Something to keep a note of when sleeving these powersupplies is that the pcie lanes have capacitors on them which Silverstone added to reduce electrical noise and to keep the PSU in spec. However you can cut them off with neglitable effect to the power. Please keep in mind that you should make sure that you have some headroom if you intend to cut off the caps and plan on overclocking. What I mean by this is if your system will draw at max 850w then you should consider getting a model that is 150w or more, this way you are not pushing the PSU to its limits thus increasing the chances of your now cappless PSU from effecting your overclock. However I must add that I have been cutting off these caps for a long time now and have NEVER had a client with an overclock issue and I have had many hardcore overclockers buy cables from me or custom units.
To conclude there is other powersupplies that are out there that might be suitable for sleeving but these are what I have been recommending for a while now and new and experienced sleevers have been very happy with these choices. As more powersupplies come onto the market I will be adding them.