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Frequently Asked Sleeving Questions - Page 99

post #981 of 1109

Edited by Funny5 - 7/31/15 at 12:53pm
post #982 of 1109
i got a question ...

...is there a cable extension tester of some sort ? or something close to it ?
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post #983 of 1109
You can use a PSU tester or a multimeter.
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post #984 of 1109
I read the first page, but couldn't find any information.
What is a recommended length to shorten on the inside bend cables? I'm going to cut my long wires at 10". should I cut the inside bend ones at 9.75"?

Thank You.
post #985 of 1109
There's no simple answer to a question like this because by the time you've managed to define exactly what kind of bend and how uniformly each of the wires follow it you would already have your own answer.

One thing you know is that it is the length of the wires you want and not the sleeving. The sleeving length is determined by the length of the wire.

The best way to get your answer is to crimp and install one end of the wires and then tape them into the shape you want the cable to form. (If you don't fancy depinning the first connector afterwards you can emulate it with masking tape instead.) You will then be able to see exactly where each wire needs to be cut.

Your only problem then will be to label each wire and make sure you can put it where you labelled it.
post #986 of 1109
Ok, gotcha, will do some testing then. Thanks for the info.
post #987 of 1109
Quote:
Originally Posted by Delta6326 View Post

I read the first page, but couldn't find any information.
What is a recommended length to shorten on the inside bend cables? I'm going to cut my long wires at 10". should I cut the inside bend ones at 9.75"?

Thank You.

Himo5 is right, you need to test things out yourself, but it is possible to calculate the minimum inside bend radius.

Because the inner wires in the connector are 4.2mm closer than the outside wires, you can use the formula for the circumference of a circle C = 2πr and solve for the difference in radius.

r1 - r2 = 4.2mm
Ci = 2πr1 - 2πr2
= 2π(r1 - r2)
= 2π(4.2mm)
= 26.39mm (or about 1"1/32 imperial)


That's for a whole circle mind you, whereas your bend will be only 180 degrees, so you can halve this value. On the other hand Lutro0 and BigElf advised that the calculation for a full circle was ideal for a half circle, from their experience sleeving longer wires. It gives you more play.

TL;DR between a half and a whole inch less on the inner wires; the important thing is consistency in measurement.
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post #988 of 1109
I'm thinking of getting the Lian-Li PC-Q26 case and build a server out of it. It places all 10 HDD in a single vertical columb, so I'm thinking of getting powering all 10 HDD through a single cable.




So I have few questions before I do something stupid.

First question is whether a single SATA power outlet on the PSU can handle 50W ~ 100W? All 10 drivers running simoultaneously draw at least 50W, maybe even close to 100W. Would a regular SATA power port on a 500W - 700W PSU be suffice?

Second question is how high I should go with wire gauge?

Third and the most important one, is it really safe or sketchy?

Thanks
post #989 of 1109
You should be able to handle 10 HDDs on a single cable, depending on how much current your PSU can handle per socket and how long the overall length of the cable is. Using specs for WD Blacks (which I happened to have on hand), which are probably as thirsty of a drive as you will encounter, you would use up to 107W for 10 HDDs while running (spin up wattage will be higher). While a small part of that wattage is taken off the 5v rail, to keep calculations simpler, assume that all of it comes from the 12v rail. 107W at 12v is a hair under 9A. Most PSUs can handle up to 16-20A per socket (depending on the PSU) so the PSU probably won't be an issue.

A bigger issue would be wire size and voltage drop. If the wire size isn't big enough, the load you're proposing can cause a slight voltage drop which could interfere with the operation of the HDDs, such as causing occasional dropouts. While I'm too lazy to do the math here (plus I need to hit the shower soon, then run errands), I did make a cable with 9 sockets on it and did the math for it, assuming that one of the drives on that cable would be a SSD. #16 would have been just barely big enough to keep the output voltage within ATX standards but I went with #14 just to be sure since I tend to be cautious (more like paranoid?). In your case, you probably should stay with #14.

Any hardware store should have #14 hookup wire. Sometimes automotive wire wii have thinner insulation. It is possible to crimp any old pins onto #14 for connector going into the PSU but it will be easier if you use pins from MainFrame Customs. They have slightly longer "wings" to make crimping to larger wire easier.

I would use connectors from modDIY for the SATA power connectors. Although modDIY has other, similar connectors, I've found this particular style will handle larger wire better although, for #14, I found it necessary to strip the insulation from the wire where it gets punched down into the connector body. I've found a 4 pin fan pin removal tool to be the best tool for punching down the wire into the connectors although a thick, flat screw driver blade can also be used. Be gentle when punching down the wire and drive it in only enough to barely bottom out in the connector.
Edited by Lady Fitzgerald - 10/16/15 at 6:23am
     
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post #990 of 1109
I have two sets of cables for my AX860. Stock, and Corsair custom sleeved. I noticed that sata power and molex have different pinouts on both sets. For an example MOLEX pinout for stock cables skips pin #2 and #4, while custom sleeved ones skip pins #5 and #6.
Are they same?

Also, how do I check for any problems with my new sleeving (I've redone whole set to fit it inside mITX case, and I'm worried I might have done something wrong). Can I use multimeter to check all the pins? How do I go about that?
Lastly, there is AX860 listed in Pinout Repository, but there is no pinout for 860. Only 850 - are they same?

Thanks!
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