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H100 from Pre-applied to IC7 Thermal Paste - Page 4

post #31 of 42
6/2/12 at 8:33am
Thread Starter 
guys, here is my result with a piece of a rice grain like, and just mount the h100 without spreading it manually:

idle: 38c
full load 74-76c, the max is 76, still frustrating.

i think i need to buy a branded one.

please advise me, in your own personal reviews. thank you.
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post #32 of 42
6/2/12 at 8:40am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by homestyle View Post

something else was up then.
i've used icd7 on bare gpu dies for at least 4-5 different mounts. No problems.
although you have to be extra careful with bare dies. they need to be completely covered and the pea dot size doesn't really work unless you're pro and know exactly how much to apply. the extra thickness of icd7 means you have to add extra goop to ensure complete coverage.

While in use the TIM works fine - temperatures were never an issue. The problems arise when you remove the TIM as it scratches/stains the surface.
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post #33 of 42
6/2/12 at 8:56am
Thread Starter 
guys, here are the thermal pastes that are available in our country that i think is high end:

Prolimatech PK-1 Thermal Compound
Tuniq TX-4 Thermal Paste

which of the two is a best buy, or should i buy them both?

and which is the best to try?

or should i order online for a better one?

thanks.
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post #34 of 42
6/2/12 at 10:10am
Quote:
Originally Posted by staryoshi View Post

While in use the TIM works fine - temperatures were never an issue. The problems arise when you remove the TIM as it scratches/stains the surface.

liberal amounts of alcohol helps. this is the firs time i've heard of icd7 damaging video cards.

i'm sure they would've put a warning or caution if this happened often.
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post #35 of 42
6/2/12 at 4:28pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by staryoshi View Post

While in use the TIM works fine - temperatures were never an issue. The problems arise when you remove the TIM as it scratches/stains the surface.

If I may, the "scratches" appear from the spreading and pressure of the cooler, not the removal of the paste. Unless your hulking out while removing it, no elbow grease is required to remove ICD7 (or any normal TIM for that matter).
Not to mention that TIM was created to fill in uneven surface's on both the cooler and the IHS. The nicks and scrape's left behind will not hinder cooling performance at all. Same with the staining.
The only problem with ICD is if are constantly removing and applying new ICD7. As long as the number's on the IHS are still visible it should not hurt your ability to RMA the product. Using liberal amounts of Rubbing Alch, and minimal pressure while removing are highly advised. I only recommend ICD7 to people who "set and forget" their cooling system. If you are into constantly removing your heat sink's there are other alternative paste's that won't do this. You can also use emery cloth and rubbing alch. to polish out nick's in the Cooler base, I wouldn't advice doing this on a chip or IHS though. it will remove the number's a printing on the IHS and would cause a problem for RMA's.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 680jetstream View Post

guys, here are the thermal pastes that are available in our country that i think is high end:
Prolimatech PK-1 Thermal Compound
Tuniq TX-4 Thermal Paste
which of the two is a best buy, or should i buy them both?
and which is the best to try?
or should i order online for a better one?
thanks.

Both of those are in deed top shelf TIM's. I would select the one that is cheaper if I where you.
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post #36 of 42
6/2/12 at 5:40pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KhaoticKomputing View Post

If I may, the "scratches" appear from the spreading and pressure of the cooler, not the removal of the paste. Unless your hulking out while removing it, no elbow grease is required to remove ICD7 (or any normal TIM for that matter).
Not to mention that TIM was created to fill in uneven surface's on both the cooler and the IHS. The nicks and scrape's left behind will not hinder cooling performance at all. Same with the staining.
The only problem with ICD is if are constantly removing and applying new ICD7. As long as the number's on the IHS are still visible it should not hurt your ability to RMA the product. Using liberal amounts of Rubbing Alch, and minimal pressure while removing are highly advised. I only recommend ICD7 to people who "set and forget" their cooling system. If you are into constantly removing your heat sink's there are other alternative paste's that won't do this. You can also use emery cloth and rubbing alch. to polish out nick's in the Cooler base, I wouldn't advice doing this on a chip or IHS though. it will remove the number's a printing on the IHS and would cause a problem for RMA's.

I meant to imply that they were left behind after removal of the TIM, not during the process of removal. (As a result of normal installation consequences such as pressure) This was not clear in my statement, in retrospect.

It's more of an issue with an exposed chip than one with an IHS, too. Without regard to cooling performance (Which as you say should not be affected), it can cause potential issues for resale or RMA. It's easier to sell a pristine part than one with blemishes. That's my opinion, anyway.

It's a solid product from a performance standpoint if you're working with a part with an IHS that you intend to set and forget (I like that expression), but it's not without it's drawbacks.
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post #37 of 42
6/2/12 at 5:50pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by staryoshi View Post

I meant to imply that they were left behind after removal of the TIM, not during the process of removal. (As a result of normal installation consequences such as pressure) This was not clear in my statement, in retrospect.
It's more of an issue with an exposed chip than one with an IHS, too. Without regard to cooling performance (Which as you say should not be affected), it can cause potential issues for resale or RMA. It's easier to sell a pristine part than one with blemishes. That's my opinion, anyway.
It's a solid product from a performance standpoint if you're working with a part with an IHS that you intend to set and forget (I like that expression), but it's not without it's drawbacks.

I agree smile.gif
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post #38 of 42
6/2/12 at 11:11pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by KhaoticKomputing View Post

If I may, the "scratches" appear from the spreading and pressure of the cooler, not the removal of the paste. Unless your hulking out while removing it, no elbow grease is required to remove ICD7 (or any normal TIM for that matter).
Not to mention that TIM was created to fill in uneven surface's on both the cooler and the IHS. The nicks and scrape's left behind will not hinder cooling performance at all. Same with the staining.
The only problem with ICD is if are constantly removing and applying new ICD7. As long as the number's on the IHS are still visible it should not hurt your ability to RMA the product. Using liberal amounts of Rubbing Alch, and minimal pressure while removing are highly advised. I only recommend ICD7 to people who "set and forget" their cooling system. If you are into constantly removing your heat sink's there are other alternative paste's that won't do this. You can also use emery cloth and rubbing alch. to polish out nick's in the Cooler base, I wouldn't advice doing this on a chip or IHS though. it will remove the number's a printing on the IHS and would cause a problem for RMA's.
Both of those are in deed top shelf TIM's. I would select the one that is cheaper if I where you.

the price is the same, so i think i have to reserve 2 pcs each.

thanks.
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post #39 of 42
6/10/12 at 4:58am
Thread Starter 
guys, im back.

just got the two TIMs which is Prolimatech PK-1 and the Tuniq TX-4.

tried to apply both, results herein 2700k @ 4.7Ghz:

Prolimatech PK-1 (rice grain method and just mount the block)

highest temp i got is 74c using prime 95

the same TIM and spread it manually using the free spreader:

the same result.


Tuniq TX-4 using rice grain method and just mount the block to spread it itself:

Idle: 40c (power savings off)
Full Load: 72-73c (using prime 95)

if i switched on the aircon @ 22c (so precisely, this is my ambient temperature), the idle is 28-30c, the lowest i temp noted is 24c.

didnt tried the spread method, because i have to seek for advise here if i have to try it, because i doubt when i will try it again, maybe i cant get the best result again, many factors (such as the amount of the TIM).

as i have read here http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Thermal-Compound-Roundup-February-2012/1490/5 , the best is the prolimatech, so did i got the best result of mine?

TIA
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post #40 of 42
6/10/12 at 9:15am
Thread Starter 
guys, im planning to make it as a push/pull configuration.

based on my understanding:

push: it is the fan who will blow the air to the surface of the radiator
pull: it is the fan who will pull an air and blows it NOT to the surface of the radiator

so guys,

i have a 2 stock fans of the h100 here and an aerocool shark fan 12cm here.

and obviously, the stock fan of the h100 is better.

so i want your advise which of the fan that will make as a pull and push.

like if will use the aerocool as a push, or pull?

advise please? so i can see which is better.

if a push/pull configuration would make it better, then i would buy the cosmos 2 for a better mounting and benefit for future modding.

thanks.
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