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~~The GTX 670 Overclocking Master-Guide~~ - Page 304

post #3031 of 3357
Quote:
Originally Posted by pc-illiterate View Post

stating + and _ offsets mean nothing. you have to tell us your clocks. every card boosts different and has different clocks.
nobody helped you figure that out. thats a false understanding of how the 2 different boosts work. i pointed this out to you. as i said in your thread, go look at my attachment in your thread. there is NO way a crashed driver will let a card run at 1402mhz but yet heaven4 showed my card was doing just that. and my card wont run anywhere near 1400mhz anyway.
i sent sean a pm to come to your thread and explain how it all works.

and those arent single 670 scores. he runs sli 670s

What is your problem? It doesn't matter, as its only in reference to my own cards. (yes I realize only the actual core matters in relation to other cards) But that is not the point. The point is, my core went up with no other changes. That's all I'm saying.

Whatever.
     
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post #3032 of 3357
Down to one 670 frown.gif
post #3033 of 3357
Quote:
Originally Posted by anubis1127 View Post

Down to one 670 frown.gif

What do you have? How does it clock?
     
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post #3034 of 3357
Quote:
Originally Posted by battleaxe View Post


What do you have? How does it clock?

I'm down to a single Galaxy 670 GC (well, and my 680 Lightning).  I'm not sure exactly, I think around 1250mhz or so, I'll test it out though.

post #3035 of 3357
Quote:
Originally Posted by battleaxe View Post

Yes zip ties.

But honestly if you do it right you don't even notice them. And zip ties are perfect as they are quiet robust and have a little bit of stretch to them. They work better than you would imagine. I won't hesitate to do it this way again. I used black zip ties went around the ear of the coolers tabs, then out the back. Then use the head of another tie to cinch each of them down. Once the ends are cut off its hard to even see how its mounted.

Edit; Also, the ram wasn't cooled before. So, I ordered some small heatsinks to bring the temps down. So they should be running cooler than they were with the stock coolers on. The VRM's already have heatsinks on them. I have a 140mm fan pushing air over both cards. I took my time to make sure it looks nice. And honestly, it looks really great. With the LED's of the h80's it looks way cooler than stock, that's for sure.

And even after 5hours of gaming on BF3 my temps never exceeded 44c on either card. My OC's went up quite a bit too. As did my 3dMark 11 scores. 3dMark11 score went up over 500 points just by getting the temps down. The mod cost less than half of just what the blocks would be to custom cool (not counting the rest of the system), so I'd say its a great deal. Plus, if I have a failure, I will only lose one card, not both cards, the cpu and possibly the whole system.


Thanks for all the info on installation and gaming temps, that helps a lot.

I'm starting to look for second hand AIO coolers now haha.
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potato
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post #3036 of 3357
Quote:
Originally Posted by anubis1127 View Post

I'm down to a single Galaxy 670 GC (well, and my 680 Lightning).  I'm not sure exactly, I think around 1250mhz or so, I'll test it out though.

What happened to the other 670? Did it die on you or something?
post #3037 of 3357
Quote:
Originally Posted by kevindd992002 View Post


What happened to the other 670? Did it die on you or something?

Naw, sold it to fund other GPU purchases.

post #3038 of 3357
Quote:
Originally Posted by anubis1127 View Post

Naw, sold it to fund other GPU purchases.

Oh ok. How long did you have that GPU, like just a month or so? You decide fast, lol.
post #3039 of 3357
Quote:
Originally Posted by battleaxe View Post

Okay, for those of you who want to know what water can do....

Got to agree with the other poster who said .. give us the clocks man, offsets mean jack! lol. I find people who talk about TDP in % almost as bad, I want to hear the Watts dude, percentage values mean nothing when comparing different cards.

Anyhow, interesting but without clocks little confusing. I can tell you that I didn't see any difference when I put mine under water. They didn't suddenly boost ~80MHz higher which I think you're implying (from +66 to -20)? Secondly, you should really use the same driver on both runs to make sure that doesn't affect things.

Anyhow.. here's an old one to compare, you can see the clocks there. Wonder why the new UI doesn't show it anymore.

http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/6715511
Edited by error-id10t - 11/28/13 at 12:54am
Just a 'puter
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Just a 'puter
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post #3040 of 3357
Quote:
Originally Posted by error-id10t View Post

Got to agree with the other poster who said .. give us the clocks man, offsets mean jack! lol. I find people who talk about TDP in % almost as bad, I want to hear the Watts dude, percentage values mean nothing when comparing different cards.

Anyhow, interesting but without clocks little confusing. I can tell you that I didn't see any difference when I put mine under water. They didn't suddenly boost ~80MHz higher which I think you're implying (from +66 to -20)? Secondly, you should really use the same driver on both runs to make sure that doesn't affect things.

Anyhow.. here's an old one to compare, you can see the clocks there. Wonder why the new UI doesn't show it anymore.

http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/6715511

What I am saying is that in AB the settings were the same. But my 3dMark11 scores went up. And by that I mean they were already at my max stable OC already before going on water. I'll try to find my ID that has the same driver on them. But the scores weren't much different as a result of the driver. I just grabbed one of them off my desktop, didn't think to check the driver, only looked at the scores and the settings.

The card got colder, the 3dMark11 scores went up.

Sorry you didn't get the same results. Maybe my situation is unusual. I really don't know.

Did your core drop almost 15c like mine did? That might be the reason.
Edited by battleaxe - 11/28/13 at 5:13am
     
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