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My poor-boy-around-100 dollar DIY cooling setup. - Page 2

post #11 of 54
Quote:
Originally Posted by gdesmo View Post

Actually Oil temps and pressure are higher in the Buell so it is good you have safety margin and virtually no vibration in computer compared to boneshaker bike. (ha-ha) thumb.gifthumb.gifbike.gif

Thanks and yeah you're right. I, too, used JB weld at the time because I couldn't afford to have it rewelded. Actually I couldn't even find a place so I took it off, drained it, roughed it up and patched it. I miss that bike but I couldn't afford the maintenance because the miles I put on it (40k in 2 years).
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post #12 of 54
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by gdesmo View Post

Actually Oil temps and pressure are higher in the Buell so it is good you have safety margin and virtually no vibration in computer compared to boneshaker bike. (ha-ha) thumb.gifthumb.gifbike.gif

I agree, thats why I have some faith in the strength of JB weld, after all its what I use to seal up threads on my oil lines and turbo feed line and drain on both my 91 supra, and 94 miata turbo.
post #13 of 54
Thread Starter 
Also, thanks everyone, I just love fabricating my own stuff, even though there are a lot of talented members on this forum that can produce quality that I have yet to reach, I still love the satisfaction and challenge in DIY, with all the failings and trimmings.
post #14 of 54
That certainly is interesting.
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post #15 of 54
I love watercooling with metal tube instead of rubber tube. Ive seen a pc pic not long ago on a website showing epic w/c oc, If I find it against ill post it.
post #16 of 54
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by amadnei View Post

I love watercooling with metal tube instead of rubber tube. Ive seen a pc pic not long ago on a website showing epic w/c oc, If I find it against ill post it.

I know i couldnt have been the only one. I use hardline for my turbo cooling lines in my car, and there is about a 10 degree difference using hardline, vs. S.S. braided in my cars... not a huge temperature advantage, but some. I have also found aluminum/hard copper tubing to be more stable, and doesnt need to be braced every 6-8 inches in high vibration areas unlike rubber, or loose hoses. So in short, here is how I see the benefits:

-Really cool looking, especially after polishing
-Very damage resistant from tools, or other things that would damage it, like rummaging hands in a system.
-Can be bent in tigher radius'es' than rubber lines, and doesnt need springs or other anti-kink aids once bent with a tight radius tool
-wont kink over time
-very solid, and wont sway with any vibration
-cools fluid as it travels instead of insulating the heat until it reaches the heat transfer
-Withstands very high pressures
-aluminum is much cheaper for 25ft rolls than copper, and looks better imo.

Cons:
-doesnt flex under pressure, which may cause plastic reservoirs to crack(thus why I think I am sticking with the rubber hose couplers instead of going -AN anodized flared fittings)
-if mixed with other common metals like copper and steel, it will cause electrolysis and/or corrosion... thus all aluminum where ever possible and anti- corrosion/electrolysis coolant.
- can kink and crack if bent sharply without a tool, thus wasting that piece of tubing
-aluminum doesnt conduct as well as copper.
-very time consuming to bend and shape to fit properly vs. flexible rubber lines.
post #17 of 54
I was wondering if it would be possible to make a tube exchange heat like passive cooling ( like fin on the tube )
post #18 of 54
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by amadnei View Post

I was wondering if it would be possible to make a tube exchange heat like passive cooling ( like fin on the tube )

Very possible, and probably wouldnt take much. It can either be soldered on, or pressure fitted on the line, and it will work like an inline fluid cooler, but miniature. I have seen it done for cheap using stamped aluminum sheet disks for cross flow, and seen soldered fins in parallel along hardline before, just not in PC cooling.

How ever, there is going to be a pre-cooler when I water cool the GPUs, something small that will fit in between the two cards in SLI using a tiny cooler 2x4", same style and type as my main radiator, but thats the far future at this point.
post #19 of 54
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phelan View Post

JB weld is stronger than most give it credit for. If I can stop an oil leak with it on an aluminum oil tank on a vibrating-like-crazy '95 Buell S2 Thunderbolt for 10k+ miles, I think it can handle the waterblock duty just fine. Great build. I like the tubing. I may look into alternatives to rubber or plastic tubing for my watercooling build coming up.
Yeah, some people get lucky with it. I worked in a Welding/Machine shop for years and you wouldn't believe the stuff I had to patch up when the JB Weld quit. In fact it was a running joke in the shop.
Like all epoxies, it just depends on the application and whether it's suitable or not.
post #20 of 54
Thread Starter 
solidshark91493 was able to take these when I wasnt looking like some sort of DIY fab voyeur... lol jk, I am glad he was able to take these, at least there is some documentation that I failed to cover.

Sorry for the many links, but the clips are short.
Edit: Just watch all the videos in this particular album in order... it is easier that way.

Now, whitness my professional, OSHA approved way to making the steel protective grill and bracket on my radiator.
0516121703a.jpg
0516121703b.jpg
th_Weld4.jpg
Edited by Pen2penguin - 6/4/12 at 1:02am
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