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[Build Log] - The Big Budget Boomer Box (aka, the "BBBB") - Page 313

post #3121 of 3982
On the AC vs Phobya inline sensors....they appear to be different. I only have one Phobya inline, and for whatever reason the thermistor takes some heavy calibration compared to the AC ones.
In fact when I redid the loop recently I pulled it out as I couldn't work it in at the time.
post #3122 of 3982

lookin good!

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post #3123 of 3982
One Large Monitor tiredsmiley.gif
Not serious of course.
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post #3124 of 3982
Quote:
And yes...it is more silent than I could have hoped for.......when the raid card fan is not spinning. It's the only component without a water block, and the little fan on the booger is loud. When I unplug it...everything is so pleasantly silent. Will need to figure out a way to waterblock that card at some point.
They pretty much make generic blocks with every sort of screw mount spacing imaginable, so I bet if you poke around awhile you'll find a good fit. The alternative would be to make your own mounting bracket out of Erector Set or someone that can design one. I know what you mean though; the mini fans on the Sabertooth boards were disgustingly loud compared to all other components.

Quote:
it looks like water/air deltas are going to be less than 2 degrees for a CPU only load....and less than 7 degrees for a CPU + GPU load
That's actually much, much higher than I imagined it would be for going through 4 rads; for your water temp, you are using the average of water-in and water-out across your radiator sub-loop, right? Also, for testing's sake, you might try not sandwiching the pedestal rads: in the sides and out the bottom would be better than in one side and out the other. You'll also want to verify that the valves are set so as to avoid any water forgetting to go through the rad sub-loop: if the flow design is the same as the one I sent, the tube between the two reservoirs should only ever flow one direction, albeit at different speeds: though this might be related to having a bum pump.

Quote:
your monitor looks puny next to the BBBB
He just needs to get a real monitor :-)
http://www.amazon.com/Dell-UltraSharp-U2412M-LED-Monitor/dp/B005JN9310/ref=lp_1292115011_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1365260503&sr=1-2
Thank you Dell for making a real monitor (16:10) instead of the squished "HD" stuff everyone makes nowadays.

A couple comments: (Click to show)
- Nice...
- When you're doing your numbers you're going to have to be pretty patient. With that much water and that many radiators it will take quite a while before you hit equilibrium.
- Try to get a water block for your RAID card before the noise drives you into madness; small, whiny fans remind me of cartoons when the character goes bug-eyed. This invokes memories of the very first system I built using a dual-CPU SOYO board and P2 Xeons, boy could that thing whine.
- Be sure to pay attention to how hot the back of the video cards get if you plan to overclock them a bunch more.
- When fiddling with the Aquaeros, remember that you _can_ use the flow meters to dictate things (if you want), but it has to be done in stages by loading profiles instead of being sources.
- If when everything is said and done you want to make your water system even more complicated, you could hook up servos to your valves and have them software-controlled. There's not really anything practical about doing that, it'd be more of a 'because you can' sort of thing.

A couple things that I've found out while testing my own components: (Click to show)
- The effectiveness of the recirculation sub-loop decreases proportionally to the difference between your heat dump and radiator dissipation (I guess this is kind of common sense though).
- I ran into non-thermal limits of overclocking before having separate CPU and GPU sub-loops became especially effective. Since you have a higher end CPU and more GPUs than I, your results may differ. Having them separate (each having higher flow rate) still helped temps a bit, but since I was nowhere near throttle temps I'm not sure it serves much purpose. Also, it seems that current caps are forced on video cards regardless of temperature: even if temp is below 40 degrees.
- Never have incoming water at the top of a reservoir if there will be any air in it; the air/water mixing it causes messes with the pH; distilled becomes acidic fairly quickly with a lot of mixing. I hit just under 5pH after only two weeks-ish of air/water mixing; since I drained and filled the reservoir completely (no air / many weeks ago) it's stayed constant at just a little below 7.
- Set your fans and pumps to change speed either by range blocks or by air/water delta because having them infinitely variable by cpu-temp or gpu-temp is extremely annoying. Even if you cannot hear them at all while running, you _can_ hear them when they change pitch.
- Running secondary blocks (ram, chipset, vrm) in parallel had no impact at all (not even 1C) on temperature, but significantly improved overall flow rate. Since you have some extra chips on your motherboard, your results may differ on the mobo block.
- At medium and high flow rates, there was no noticeable difference in GPU temps between series and parallel except that in series, the second card was always slightly higher than the first; but being in parallel significantly improved overall flow rate. At low flow rate, having the cards in series clearly gave better temps to both cards.
- Having all blocks in 2x parallel except the CPU gave noticeably lower overclock temps than when everything was in series. The most dramatic increase to flow rate I had was when I changed ram, chipset, and vrm blocks to 2x parallel from series. At stock speed, there really wasn't much difference to cpu temp regardless of flow rate.
- CPU idle core temps were slightly lower with air cooling no matter how many times I re-mounted the block. *shrug* The load temps are what really matter anyway.
- I've only hooked up all my radiators once (~120.30 worth of rad); I can't see me ever needing to turn up my fans, so I have now decided to think more of an off/on approach where the fans are either off or run at 5v and the increasing air/water delta will turn on radiators as needed. I'm also considering removing my recirculation sub-loop because with this much radiator, there simply is no purpose to it. I think you have about 120.25 worth of rad, but may end being more like 120.20 or 120.15 from sandwiching, plus you have a lot more heat dump than I, so you'll have to play around a bit to see if recirculation gives you any benefit at all.
- ... my pedestal pushes up enough air when the AP-15s are on 12v to suspend a beach ball in the air...I wasn't expecting that. I know you used different fans than I, but you might keep this mind when trying to figure out the curve for your Aquaero fan control.

Edited by Electrocutor - 4/6/13 at 12:12pm
post #3125 of 3982
^ That has got to be one of the longest posts from a non-OP in a build log I've ever seen. thumb.gif
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post #3126 of 3982
Quote:
Originally Posted by Killbuzzjrad View Post

^ That has got to be one of the longest posts from a non-OP in a build log I've ever seen. thumb.gif
My bad; it has been de-spammed.
post #3127 of 3982
I'm not complaining. You just never really see that too often. tongue.gif
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post #3128 of 3982
Quote:
Originally Posted by cpachris View Post

Parting shot with all the panels in place.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Long reach down to the optical drive, how come you didn't mount it in the top slot? Plus have you considered painting it to match the colour scheme better?
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post #3129 of 3982
More sleeving goodness. Great work Chris. cheers.gif
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post #3130 of 3982
Quote (Click to show)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Electrocutor View Post

They pretty much make generic blocks with every sort of screw mount spacing imaginable, so I bet if you poke around awhile you'll find a good fit. The alternative would be to make your own mounting bracket out of Erector Set or someone that can design one. I know what you mean though; the mini fans on the Sabertooth boards were disgustingly loud compared to all other components.
That's actually much, much higher than I imagined it would be for going through 4 rads; for your water temp, you are using the average of water-in and water-out across your radiator sub-loop, right? Also, for testing's sake, you might try not sandwiching the pedestal rads: in the sides and out the bottom would be better than in one side and out the other. You'll also want to verify that the valves are set so as to avoid any water forgetting to go through the rad sub-loop: if the flow design is the same as the one I sent, the tube between the two reservoirs should only ever flow one direction, albeit at different speeds: though this might be related to having a bum pump.
He just needs to get a real monitor :-)
http://www.amazon.com/Dell-UltraSharp-U2412M-LED-Monitor/dp/B005JN9310/ref=lp_1292115011_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1365260503&sr=1-2
Thank you Dell for making a real monitor (16:10) instead of the squished "HD" stuff everyone makes nowadays.

A couple comments: (Click to show)
- Nice...
- When you're doing your numbers you're going to have to be pretty patient. With that much water and that many radiators it will take quite a while before you hit equilibrium.
- Try to get a water block for your RAID card before the noise drives you into madness; small, whiny fans remind me of cartoons when the character goes bug-eyed. This invokes memories of the very first system I built using a dual-CPU SOYO board and P2 Xeons, boy could that thing whine.
- Be sure to pay attention to how hot the back of the video cards get if you plan to overclock them a bunch more.
- When fiddling with the Aquaeros, remember that you _can_ use the flow meters to dictate things (if you want), but it has to be done in stages by loading profiles instead of being sources.
- If when everything is said and done you want to make your water system even more complicated, you could hook up servos to your valves and have them software-controlled. There's not really anything practical about doing that, it'd be more of a 'because you can' sort of thing.

A couple things that I've found out while testing my own components: (Click to show)
- The effectiveness of the recirculation sub-loop decreases proportionally to the difference between your heat dump and radiator dissipation (I guess this is kind of common sense though).
- I ran into non-thermal limits of overclocking before having separate CPU and GPU sub-loops became especially effective. Since you have a higher end CPU and more GPUs than I, your results may differ. Having them separate (each having higher flow rate) still helped temps a bit, but since I was nowhere near throttle temps I'm not sure it serves much purpose. Also, it seems that current caps are forced on video cards regardless of temperature: even if temp is below 40 degrees.
- Never have incoming water at the top of a reservoir if there will be any air in it; the air/water mixing it causes messes with the pH; distilled becomes acidic fairly quickly with a lot of mixing. I hit just under 5pH after only two weeks-ish of air/water mixing; since I drained and filled the reservoir completely (no air / many weeks ago) it's stayed constant at just a little below 7.
- Set your fans and pumps to change speed either by range blocks or by air/water delta because having them infinitely variable by cpu-temp or gpu-temp is extremely annoying. Even if you cannot hear them at all while running, you _can_ hear them when they change pitch.
- Running secondary blocks (ram, chipset, vrm) in parallel had no impact at all (not even 1C) on temperature, but significantly improved overall flow rate. Since you have some extra chips on your motherboard, your results may differ on the mobo block.
- At medium and high flow rates, there was no noticeable difference in GPU temps between series and parallel except that in series, the second card was always slightly higher than the first; but being in parallel significantly improved overall flow rate. At low flow rate, having the cards in series clearly gave better temps to both cards.
- Having all blocks in 2x parallel except the CPU gave noticeably lower overclock temps than when everything was in series. The most dramatic increase to flow rate I had was when I changed ram, chipset, and vrm blocks to 2x parallel from series. At stock speed, there really wasn't much difference to cpu temp regardless of flow rate.
- CPU idle core temps were slightly lower with air cooling no matter how many times I re-mounted the block. *shrug* The load temps are what really matter anyway.
- I've only hooked up all my radiators once (~120.30 worth of rad); I can't see me ever needing to turn up my fans, so I have now decided to think more of an off/on approach where the fans are either off or run at 5v and the increasing air/water delta will turn on radiators as needed. I'm also considering removing my recirculation sub-loop because with this much radiator, there simply is no purpose to it. I think you have about 120.25 worth of rad, but may end being more like 120.20 or 120.15 from sandwiching, plus you have a lot more heat dump than I, so you'll have to play around a bit to see if recirculation gives you any benefit at all.
- ... my pedestal pushes up enough air when the AP-15s are on 12v to suspend a beach ball in the air...I wasn't expecting that. I know you used different fans than I, but you might keep this mind when trying to figure out the curve for your Aquaero fan control.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Electrocutor View Post

My bad; it has been de-spammed.

As a data nut, this post was a pleasure to read. +Rep thumb.gif
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