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[Build Log] - The Big Budget Boomer Box (aka, the "BBBB") - Page 326

post #3251 of 3982
Definitely, glad to hear my fellow sooner is good, I've seen a few OK twisters myself, I once watched a Motel 6 in Norman be lifted and carried and then set down from the seat of my truck, it was an interesting day for sure, and hail damage, something I don't miss haha
 
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noVaKan3: Retired
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post #3252 of 3982
Thread Starter 
Pedestal lighting done! Pictures of process.....

This is a roll of Hitlight strip LED's. They are dirt cheap, and decently made. The entire roll of 16 feet can be found for $20 or less, depending on the density and size of the LED's. Compare that to the price of the LED strips you can buy from computer part manufacturers. rolleyes.gif





There are dotted lines every 3rd LED, where you can simply take scissors and cut through the strip, to create a custom size for your build....





I started with these 4 strips which I will use to go around the top of the pedestal.....





Although I guess I could have had one large strip that went all the way around the top of the pedestal, I chose to have breakpoints around the corners. These are already incredibly bright, and there simply wasn't a need to have lights all the way around. So....to join the LED strips together, one of the options is to solder wires to the strip. I cut some lenghts of 18 awg wire....





....joined each wire to the LED strip with a dot of solder. There are two small dots (positive and negative) on each side of the cut lines. Metal connections are exposed here...and the solder will stick to it.





...and of course sleeved and heatshrinked the wire connections to keep it looking clean. No one will be able to see down in the pedestal once the main case is attached....but it would still bother me having non-sleeved wires down there. This was fairly easy to do.









However, after I had finished connecting my four strips, and started playing around with them while they were plugged in...I started having issues with some of the solder connections breaking away from the LED strip. I fixed two of them....but after the third one happened, I decided that this was not a good solution. Once the case is on top of the pedestal, this would not be an easy fix.

So...I found these little things online. They are connectors for the LED strips, and are also relatively inexpensive at about $1.25 each. These are designed to just insert the end of an LED strip...whereever it has been cut...and you'll have connections. You can also cut the wires if you wanted to add a connector to one of them (which I did).





of course...I still had to make them pretty. Because of the size of the connector, I had to use SATA size sleeve instead of small sleeve. Still looks nice though....





I took one of the LED strips....





...and inserted it into the sleeved connector....





repeat 3 more times....and presto! You have a custom LED strip that only has lights for the exact length that you want lights.

These next pictures are of the pedestal with the lighting strips installed and turned on. I ran 4 strips all the way around the top of the pedestal, and then put two additional strips on the pump mounting bracket on the floor of the pedestal. Two separate fan connectors on the end of these, so that I could attach them separately to the FC8 fan controller. This will allow me to turn them off when the lighting effect is not desired...and also to adjust the brightness of the effect with voltage control....

These pictures are with the room lights on....and you can still see the glow coming out of the pedestal! These are VERY bright at 12 volts.









Now...I'm fairly certain that someone with better solder skills than I could probably make these work even without the connectors I used.....but this was easiest for me. There might even be some coating on the strip that I didn't remove which would make the solder adhere better....but I found my easy solution that was also inexpensive.

My hope is that these will create a glow from the pedestal that can be seen through the radiators. We'll see once I get the case on the pedestal.

Just about ready to put the case back on the pedestal. After that...I just need to wire/sleeve the new pumps, and I should be ready to fill it back up. I've changed the loop layout in some key areas...which I'll show in pictures soon.

More to come!
post #3253 of 3982
Nice work,

I hear its a bad day for Oklahoma because the tornado.

Hope your al well.
post #3254 of 3982
I had a similar problem with soldered joints breaking on my LED strips so I used a glue gun to drop a spot of glue on each one which seems to have stopped them breaking and doesn't seem to be badly affected by heating up the heatshrink.
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post #3255 of 3982
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by txtrkandy View Post

Definitely, glad to hear my fellow sooner is good, I've seen a few OK twisters myself, I once watched a Motel 6 in Norman be lifted and carried and then set down from the seat of my truck, it was an interesting day for sure, and hail damage, something I don't miss haha
Quote:
Originally Posted by Killa Cam View Post

hey op, i hope you're ok.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TATH View Post

I hear its a bad day for Oklahoma because the tornado.
Hope your al well.

Damage in Moore is just indescribable...but I'm sure you've all seen pictures. There is a path almost a mile wide that goes on and on and on...where everything was just scrubbed clean off the map. We have hundreds of tornadoes every year hear in Oklahoma...but rarely are they right in the middle of a populated area like that.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Elf View Post

I had a similar problem with soldered joints breaking on my LED strips so I used a glue gun to drop a spot of glue on each one which seems to have stopped them breaking and doesn't seem to be badly affected by heating up the heatshrink.

Interesting solution. Did you solder first...and then drop glue on top of it?
post #3256 of 3982
Quote:
Originally Posted by cpachris View Post


Interesting solution. Did you solder first...and then drop glue on top of it?

I did. Now that I think about it though when you buy them pre-assembled I'm fairly certain they also use the hot glue as well. I didn't realise at first that you could cut them to size so bought a long one which is now assembled in 4 parts and must have seen the glue they'd used.
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post #3257 of 3982
When I bought my led reel I bought some of these to try out:


Should make connecting strips pretty easy.

EDIT: should have added these are made by hitlights as well, got them from Amazon.
Edited by mandrix - 5/21/13 at 5:24pm
post #3258 of 3982
You know... with all that white in there, I wonder what it would look like bathed in black light.

[Edit]
Have you thought about getting a Multiswitch to control your LED strips? It sounds like it would allow them to be controlled by the AQ5 as well as manually: on/off and dimmer.
Edited by Electrocutor - 5/22/13 at 12:00pm
post #3259 of 3982
^ sorry could you explain what sort of switch this is? I'm planning on using an AQ5 to control some lights, I thought it was possible to control them on/off and dimming just using the AQ5?
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post #3260 of 3982
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wibble360 View Post

^ sorry could you explain what sort of switch this is? I'm planning on using an AQ5 to control some lights, I thought it was possible to control them on/off and dimming just using the AQ5?

It is, but the number of ports available for that is limited. If you need more: http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/aqcomuusb1lt.html
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