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[Official] Fractal Design Node 304 Owners Club - Page 490

post #4891 of 7072
Quote:
Originally Posted by squallSK View Post

Hey guys, how you doing?

First of all, thank you for all your posts, helped me a lot to choose the optimum components for me. The case arrived yesterday:




The components arrived today too, so will do the build tonight:

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U12S 55.0 CFM CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Asus MAXIMUS VII IMPACT Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard
Memory: Kingston Savage 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory (second will be bought later this month)
Storage: Samsung 850 Pro Series 128GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Case: Fractal Design Node 304 (White) Mini ITX Tower Case (obviously)
Power Supply: be quiet! 450W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply
Keyboard: Gigabyte GK-K8100 Wired Gaming Keyboard
Mouse: Logitech Performance Wireless Laser Mouse

I'd like to ask you guys a question, which fan brand you preffer? Noctua or Be Quiet! for the 2x92mm and 1x140mm case fans? I really aim for quietness..
Might end up with a GPU later, but I don't really play current games on PC (Civ IV FTW biggrin.gif ).

Another question is on monitor - I'd fancy the LG 25" UHD 2560 x 1080 screen. Will the Intel HD 4600 on the i5 handle this screen with another Full HD Plasma? Anyone? I couldn't really find a definitive answer to this question anywhere mad.gif

Again thank you for existing ! :-)

P.S. Us, the white case owners are quite the minority, what gives? rolleyes.gif

I'm really interested to see how installing your motherboard goes for you. I ran into major problems with mine. The audio card had cross threaded screws and the card itself seemed to extend too far back. The only way I going to be able to fit the board was to either not install the i/o shield or hack it up with some tin snips. I chose the latter and cut a slit to let the audio card fit.
Edited by SMRadda - 1/14/15 at 9:15am

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post #4892 of 7072
I finally got around to tidying up my case..

Before :-





And after my little tidy up :-







I removed the 1Tb SATA 2 3.5" drive and installed a new Samsung M9T 2Tb 2.5" drive.

I was going to put the SSD behind the front panel but in the end decided to just put them on top of the V550 with velcro.

Finished and back on the shelf :-)



In my Windows 10 rebuild I managed to lose the Coretemp screenshot from before, but my idle temps have dropped about 10deg - in changing the cpu cooler, I also switched from using AS5 TIM which I have always used to the supplied Noctua TIM.

It's definitely a pain to build in this case, and shorter PSU cables would definitely have helped somewhat. The USB 3.0 cable to the front of the case is annoying me as it's very inflexible and hard to route in a tidy and hidden fashion.

Overall quite pleased though!
post #4893 of 7072
@Winrahr Original Post (Click to show)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Winrahr View Post

For those of you who are running acrylic panels on your Nodes how did you guys mount the acrylic panels to the case?

I need some panels for this beauty biggrin.gif

I am at a loss of words. You deserve an applaud. applaud.gif
You are making new grounds for this case and are showing its potential. There is some extremely clever craftiness going on in that case of yours. Phenomenal job!
Now, back to the issue at hand. Panels are a requirement for sure. That work needs to be seen!
Here is a quote from a post I dicussed earlier. I am not sure if anyone else has made acrylic panels for the Node 304.
"The side panels are mounted using two magnets at opposite corners per panel. The magnets were integrated into the panel and are flush. If you look carefully, you will spot a magnet in my pictures. Upon observing the case closely, you will see that there is a plastic lip at the bottom for the side panels to sit on.
Since individual side panels are easy to work with, I mounted a fan on the GPU side (easy to deal with power cable). The rubber mounts are also integrated into the panel to be flush."

@psykix
Looking good. I see that your remove the drive cage and the center beam.
Removing the center beam really opens up the case and makes it look spacious. thumb.gif
@SMRadda & @squallSK cheers.gif
Awesome motherboards!

@SMRadda
Could you go into a little more detail about your issue please? I have the Maximus Impact VI, and I too had problems with the I/O shield.
It took be about four separate times before I figured out my problem. When I tried to install the motherboard, the holes would never line up with the stand-offs. So I had to push super hard against the I/O to place to screws. The Q-code indicator would get stuck on the shield and would not fit properly. It turns out that I did not push the I/O shield into the frame of the Node back far enough. tongue.gif Be rough with that I/O shield and just jam that thing into the case.
I am not sure if that was your issue, but that was what I experienced when installing the motherboard.

@squallSK
I personally use Noctua. The have a good balance between performance and acoustics. I am not sure about Be Quiet! fans, but I heard that they work well.
Your PSU will limit your future GPU choice, but your are in luck because the Maxwell series GPUs are more efficient and use less power now.

I think black is to go-to color for being slick and making a statement. It is easier to hide cables because the colors blend.
White is bold in its own way, but you have to take care to the details otherwise it will look messy. Cables stand out and finding a color scheme that works is slightly more tricky.

@syncronized77 Original Post (Click to show)
Quote:
Originally Posted by syncronized77 View Post

Interesting thoughts and suggestions about watercooling and aircooling CPUs....I never thought about it like that!!

As I stated earlier, I'm currently running an AMD 3870k with a Noctua NH-C12P SE14 CPU cooler with the stock 140mm fan but I wanted to use all of my HDD bays for 6 drives, so I had to change out the fan on the cooler to a Noctua NF-B9-1600 92mm on the same cooler. And while the case was open I was inspired to do a little cable management (after seeing all of your pics) and decided to upgrade to 16GB and install an PCI-E internal dual sata3 controller to utilize all 6 HDD slots...but then saw that my Noctua aircooler was in the way of everything frown.gif Thus the thought of going the route of a watercooler. I might need to rethink my upgrade
As others have stated, if using an AIO makes managing your drives more easily, then by all means so for it. The cooling will be adequate and will probably be not too loud.
I personally use a Corsair H75 and I can not hear the pump. I sit about two feet from my system.

@MEC-777 Original Post (Click to show)
Quote:
Originally Posted by MEC-777 View Post

The pumps on both my H60 and H55 are pretty much silent. All I hear is a gentle "woosh" from the fans at 7v and a tiny bit of buzz from the fan that's against the exhaust grill.

I've heard several people say the pumps can be loud but I've never experienced this myself.

The thing about AIOs is even if they require a higher fan speed or make a little more noise to cool the same as a quality tower cooler, towers aren't always the most practical solution. It all depends on the specific setup and the preferences of the builder. I'm not crazy about the look of tower coolers, I prefer a cleaner look and I like having more space to work on the PC without having to remove the cooler and re-apply the paste every time. I also like that AIOs relocate where the heat exchange is taking place and exhaust all heat directly outside the case, which helps keep interior case temps down. I prefer my system be as quiet as possible, but I can deal with a little bit of noise. Also, with the G10+H55 on the GPU, it's FAR quieter than it ever was during gaming. All fans run at constant 7v and never have to "ramp" beyond that to keep everything nice and cool. wink.gif

So yeah, specific setup and user preference should determine which is best-suited.
I second this. GPU mod on my GTX 780 Classified really mellowed the acoustics and tamed the heat. My other components were much cooler and happier after the mod.
post #4894 of 7072
Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyL View Post

@Winrahr Original Post (Click to show)
I am at a loss of words. You deserve an applaud. applaud.gif
You are making new grounds for this case and are showing its potential. There is some extremely clever craftiness going on in that case of yours. Phenomenal job!
Now, back to the issue at hand. Panels are a requirement for sure. That work needs to be seen!
Here is a quote from a post I dicussed earlier. I am not sure if anyone else has made acrylic panels for the Node 304.
"The side panels are mounted using two magnets at opposite corners per panel. The magnets were integrated into the panel and are flush. If you look carefully, you will spot a magnet in my pictures. Upon observing the case closely, you will see that there is a plastic lip at the bottom for the side panels to sit on.
Since individual side panels are easy to work with, I mounted a fan on the GPU side (easy to deal with power cable). The rubber mounts are also integrated into the panel to be flush."

Thanks for the kind words smile.gif

For your side panels at 1/8" were they flush with the front panel or would 3/16" be a better thickness? Also what did you use to glue the magnets onto the panel? I see you didn't use magnets for the top panel. The side panels were enough to keep it in place?

Your side panels look great and I love how the magnets are flush thumb.gif
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post #4895 of 7072
Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyL View Post

@SMRadda
Could you go into a little more detail about your issue please? I have the Maximus Impact VI, and I too had problems with the I/O shield.
It took be about four separate times before I figured out my problem. When I tried to install the motherboard, the holes would never line up with the stand-offs. So I had to push super hard against the I/O to place to screws. The Q-code indicator would get stuck on the shield and would not fit properly. It turns out that I did not push the I/O shield into the frame of the Node back far enough. tongue.gif Be rough with that I/O shield and just jam that thing into the case.
I am not sure if that was your issue, but that was what I experienced when installing the motherboard.

I thought it was just one of the i/o's hanging on the shield as well. It was definitely the sound card hitting the shield. I cut a slot right next to the sound i/o and the board slid right in.
Edited by SMRadda - 1/14/15 at 9:48pm
post #4896 of 7072
@Winrahr
Thanks. Seamless integration is slick.
It is interesting how one can spend a lot of time on the little details that make the theme more complete, but yet many people will oversee that detail.

1/8" works perfectly for the side panels. They stick a hair out, but close enough to call it flush with the front panel.
In terms of magnet attachment, just that! Glue. A touch of epoxy did the trick for me.
No magnets on the top because it sits right on top. The side panels keep it in its place.
post #4897 of 7072
Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyL View Post

@Winrahr
Thanks. Seamless integration is slick.
It is interesting how one can spend a lot of time on the little details that make the theme more complete, but yet many people will oversee that detail.

1/8" works perfectly for the side panels. They stick a hair out, but close enough to call it flush with the front panel.
In terms of magnet attachment, just that! Glue. A touch of epoxy did the trick for me.
No magnets on the top because it sits right on top. The side panels keep it in its place.

Wouldn't the top panel slide backwards? My friend will be laser cutting for me although he has never made a cut with a specific depth. I might end up experimenting with friction fit if it ends up cutting all the way through

Thanks so much for your help. It really is the details that makes a build special.
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post #4898 of 7072
thumb.gif
Yes. The top panel will slide if you move the PC around.
Two magnets on either the front or back should do the trick. I did not add them because most of the time my system is stationary.

Laser cut to depth? Wouldn't it be easier to just use 1/8" stock sheet to cut the panels out? (That is what I did.)
I eyeballed the measurements, then cut it to length with a router. After each trim I would feel for how flush the pieces were, then worked from there.

If you are savvy with acrylic, you could bend a single sheet into a U-shape like the original top cover. Another option is to glue three panels together to get a U-shape. Going for the U-shape design will eliminate the need for magnets if you make the ends of the U a bit inverted to create a snug fit. Otherwise magnets on the bottom with suffice.
post #4899 of 7072
I've never worked with acrylic before so bending is out of the question. I'd cut with tools except I don't have any and believe it or not the most accessible tool for me is a laser cutter. A U shape is a possibility although I'm scared of my own cementing skills tongue.gif
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Project Taro
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HAFX ReVamped
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5 4690k Asus Z97I-Plus EVGA GTX 980 SC Kingston Hyperx Fury 2x4GB 1866Mhz 
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Crucial MX100 512GB Samsung Spinpoint M6T 2TB 2.5" Custom Loop  Windows 8.1 Pro 
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Dell P2414H CM Storm Quick Fire Rapid-i Silverstone SX600-G Fractal Design Node 304 
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Mionix Naos 7000 Audio Technica A900X Fiio E17 
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post #4900 of 7072
Doing three separate panels would be best then.
The top and GPU panel will be plain with holes for the magnets, and the PSU side will be interesting. Since you have a radiator on the PSU side, you could make up some design, and I bet you could get some really nice shapes using a laser cutter.
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