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GTX 670 copper block? - Page 2

post #11 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by PuffinMyLye View Post

You're right I never mentioned the FTW edition but that is indeed the one I got so it does have the same PCB as the 680. I wound up picking up a Nickel plated EK FC-680 block (fingers crossed on the nickel plating) since it was the only one I could find with an acrylic top.

I got a koolance waterblock for my 680. I dont get acrylic top for gpus or cpus
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post #12 of 28
Thanks for the heads up on the 670 FTW PCB! I think I'm going to scrap getting a 4GB version (since I have no intention of ever running surround), and get a FTW 2gb instead (and here I thought I'd have to pony up the cash for a 680 instead).

The dangerden block looks nice (looks like it covers memory too). Why are some people hung up on an acrylic top?
    
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post #13 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by pabloedvardo View Post

Thanks for the heads up on the 670 FTW PCB! I think I'm going to scrap getting a 4GB version (since I have no intention of ever running surround), and get a FTW 2gb instead (and here I thought I'd have to pony up the cash for a 680 instead).
The dangerden block looks nice (looks like it covers memory too). Why are some people hung up on an acrylic top?
It is mainly for looks thats it.
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post #14 of 28
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by pabloedvardo View Post

Thanks for the heads up on the 670 FTW PCB! I think I'm going to scrap getting a 4GB version (since I have no intention of ever running surround), and get a FTW 2gb instead (and here I thought I'd have to pony up the cash for a 680 instead).
The dangerden block looks nice (looks like it covers memory too). Why are some people hung up on an acrylic top?

Yea it's just a cosmetic thing. I also like to be able to look inside my GPU block while my loop is running to be sure there are no clogs, etc.
post #15 of 28
Dude full cover blocks are seriously overrated, especially with these non power hungry Keplers. I have the universal Swiftech GPU block with some heatsinks and my 670 never sees above 36C in BF3. Plus I can reuse this on another GPU. Just something to think about. That heatkiller block looks pretty tight too...
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post #16 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by Juggalo23451 View Post

The op does not mention the ftw or what gtx670 model he is looking into.
I got the standard EVGA 670 hope someone makes a block for it
HK water block. That is not full cover frown.gif
GPU_X_Core_5_2.jpg

I love the look of this heatkiller, but i worry about airflow over the vrm heatsink. i don't have an easy way to get a fan in there since my sound card is directly below the gpu slot.
Do people think switching to copper vrm blocks would be enough?

I admit, i am getting really impatient about putting my card under water. Ready to go with a hybrid if someone doesn't get a block out for the reference card soon.

Cheers
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post #17 of 28
why cooper ? i just put two VID-NX680 Water Block (NVIDIA GeForce GTX 680 today smile.gif both card are so cool now max temp is 36c @ 1316MHz, first card 36c second card 37c
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post #18 of 28
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by skyn3t View Post

why cooper ? i just put two VID-NX680 Water Block (NVIDIA GeForce GTX 680 today smile.gif both card are so cool now max temp is 36c @ 1316MHz, first card 36c second card 37c

I was concerned about the nickel plating corroding/flaking as I had seen reports of that. Turns out it was mostly an issue with the older EK blocks but still there have been reports of it happening with the newer blocks as well. I wound up just biting the bullet and picking up a Nickel plated EK block because I couldn't find any copper ones with acrylic tops in stock anywhere. Fingers crossed.
post #19 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by skyn3t View Post

why cooper ? i just put two VID-NX680 Water Block (NVIDIA GeForce GTX 680 today smile.gif both card are so cool now max temp is 36c @ 1316MHz, first card 36c second card 37c

I meant the heat sinks you can attach not the gpu's waterblock.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15573/vid-184/Akust_Copper_Memory_Chip_Heatsink_-_4_Pack_RS00-0602-AKS.html
I would avoid nickel plated just because my own company has had so much trouble with it. Since it is more like a lacquer than a surface conversion (like anodizing, pvd coatings, etc) it easily flakes off if the base material isn't perfectly prepped.

Nice temps on the 680's btw. thumb.gif
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post #20 of 28
Got my 670's under so water - now for some temp testing.

450

thumb.gif
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