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[Build Log] Synthetic Anatomy

51K views 176 replies 77 participants last post by  Rognin 
#1 ·
Alright, a little about myself. Third water cooling build, and second real modded build (still a newb!). I had previously worked on a 650D, and gone the route of UV lights and flashy tubes. It just didn't cut it for me. The build name suited it well, I just never really finished it the way I wanted.
Sorry for Pic quality...
450

71

OCN Exclusive...
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System Specs:
  • GA-Z68-UD7-B3
  • i7 2700K
  • 16Gb Dominator 1866 RAM
  • Tri-SLI GTX 580 3Gb
  • Chronos Deluxe 240Gb SSD's in RAID0
  • Xonar ST
  • Seagate 3Tb 7200rpm
  • ST1500
  • FT02

And so I got to thinking about transfering the build for two particular reasons. First, the looks and second, function. Mindchi|l here on OCN built me a custom TEC chiller. I also previously had purchased the TEC block (single TEC for 1155's). That was little useless seen as I could chill the water down lower than 10c. The more important problem was the radiators inside the 650D, adding extra heat wattage where I wanted none. So I set out to search for a case I would like. Something classy and stylish with no flash or bling to it. It also had to be made of metal, no more plastic. Set my mind to the FT02. Bought it and this is what came out.

Final Pics :













  • I hate useless noise as much as the next guy, so the grills had to go.
    230

    Cut.
    193

  • Needed to get the water out of the case somehow. It had to be practical and look good at the same time. So I needed more holes in this case. That alu is thick, but there's also the steel frame within the FT02. So had to cut that out also.
    257

    QDC's installed. (that's dust not a scratch)
    700

  • Mobo and water cooling parts installed.
    649

  • I am no pro like Lutro, but damned if I didn't learn from his vids and guides. I sleeved everything in this build. The CCFL's, case wires (except the USB3, they are soldered on and the connector is too big) you name it. All sleeved with FTWPC sleeving 2.0
    504

  • I even sleeved the tubes... yes the tubes. But not paracord sleeving, I had to give myself a real headache over this one. I wanted shiny sleeving. Every tube had to be prepped before installation. It was a real hassel to get all this done. My fingers were purple from the knurled fittings. Everything had to be first mounted to determine tube lenghts, then unassembled and sleeved. And the sleeving was a pain to cut. The Compression fitting rings had to be modded to fit the extra millimeter of metal sleeving. And worst of all was getting the compression fittings to actually screw in. In the end, it can be done with enough resolve!
    165

  • So now to assemble fully fitted tubes. I had to assemble the tubing outside of the case and then install it in the case. The actual installation had steps to follow, else I'd be stuck with an unscrewed fitting in a very tight space. I also forgo the shortest possible tube routing law for this one; because why wouldn't I?!
    450

  • Now to test for some leaks. Well while we do that, I might as well play around in the puter. What am I missing? Ohh right, the lighting!
    520

    Close up.
    450

  • I tried for some money shots even if I'm not quite finished. I'm really liking the end results. Quiet happy actually.
    biggrin.gif

    482

    619

    433

    Also changed the top grill. A lighter color will hide the cables hopefully.
    700

  • Alright, basic tools and supplies.

    - Dremel
    - Glove(s) (with a plastic layering of sorts.)
    - Tubing
    - Steel Sleeving (TOS prohibits me from linking the e-bay where the item is sold I think. So google: STAINLESS STEEL OVERBRAID SLEEVING HOSE 19mm)
    -ROTARY Compression fittings (as you'll need to install the tubes once they are complete)
    450

    First things first, you'll want to deremel the inside of this ring. That's without damaging the threads, I screwed two up in the whole fit. So if possible, get a couple extra fittings so you have extra rings.
    450

    Once you have those done, tape the end of your sleeving, dremel one end to have a straightcut ( (or as straight as possible). The tape on ALL cuts will help avoid a little fraying, and you want to avoid as much of it as possible for a nice job.
    450

    Once you've cut the end off, take your measurements for the next cut. The next step is to enter your tubing into the sleeving (gloves come in handy as of this step). Stretch the sleeving tight over the tube and tape it down. Painters tape works rather poorly, duck tape leaves residue (that metal sleeving warms up with you fiddling about with it, bad with duck tape) electric tape isn't that bad but you can't see where you have to cut. So I resorted to a marker for the cut line and painters tape, if anyone has some good tape they know will work speak up!
    450

    Once it's cut to perfection (lol) push the tubing in about 3" to 4".
    450

    Take the sleeve and your fitting. Hold the sleeving to compress it a little (round if possible as the steel can deform if you apply too much pressure). It'll make it easier to get the rings on the sleeving and avoid some unwanted fraying.
    450

    Put BOTH compression fittings over the sleeving, as once one is on you WILL NOT be able to get the other ring over the tubing without fraying the sleeving. If you have an end that might fray or caught in the compression rings threads, start screwing/unscrewing the ring over the sleeving. It'll get over it better without causing as much fraying.
    450

    Now you want to put the compression fitting into the tube, pull the sleeving over to the edge of the tube (not over the fittings threads!!). Bring the ring to the fitting and crew the fitting into the ring. That way the sleeving doesn't move and you can tighten it down.
    450

    450

    See that glove, it avoids PURPLE fingers. Well it helps. That and the prickely end od the sleeving sometime startles you when it gets you good. Not fun.
    450

  • The SLI bridge cover made by Dwood. Awesome stuff right there!

  • Quick pic update. Got the SLI badge from Dwood, and needed to get a couple things done first. The acrylic and stainless were not in one piece so I had to glue them with epoxy, word of advice; don't use super glue with acrylic, it doesn't work.



    Then used velcro to get the badge to stay on the SLI bridge. Now just got my LED's wired up and I'll sleeve them now. Afterwhich I'll take pictures tomorrow evening as final pics for the build.




    Just some quick shots with the badge installed. I'm taking the money shots tomorrow. The rad is almost ready, just need to bleed it.

    Didn't know which shot I liked best, I'll edit this for the final cut, I really like the way the tubing looked.



    Clear image of the badge


    As a whole with lights on.


    P.S. I haven't dusted this rig in three months. The FT02 is just amazing!

    Now to bleed a rad so I can take pics with the rig on... =P

Updated: 2012-11-08

Hoped you enjoyed what you saw. Comments and constructive criticism are very welcome!
 
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47
#2 ·
Subbed, will look into it fully when I'm home
redface.gif


Edit:
Damn those tubes are purty. How did the overclocking go on said system?
 
#5 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmanstasiu View Post

Subbed, will look into it fully when I'm home
redface.gif

Edit:
Damn those tubes are purty. How did the overclocking go on said system?
I know right. I was scared when I started that the mesh would twists and look really ugly. But it came out amazing (by my standards).
Quote:
Originally Posted by TechieGeek2012 View Post

Subbed!
Wish mine looked that neat. My tubes I think are too long, but it isn't too shabby for a first try.
I still have to get the cables in Techie, that might be why it looks so neat right now... =P
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mindchi|l View Post

Nice!!! Looking Great
Thanks Mindchi|l!!
 
#8 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by shadowhero18 View Post

Interesting...
Thanks!
Quote:
Originally Posted by mironccr345 View Post

Nice job. I should have cut the bottom grill out of my RV02, that's where most of the noise comes from in my rig. Did you add filters to the bottom?
The FT02 comes with slide out air filters (installed beneath the fans). I also added the Silverstone 180mm fan grills on the top of the fans to hide the stickers and give it a sleeker look. You can't see those because of the paper towels covering them up.
 
#9 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by TechieGeek2012 View Post

Subbed!
Wish mine looked that neat. My tubes I think are too long, but it isn't too shabby for a first try.
I was looking all over for this picture. Here was my first attempt at water cooling Techie. Notice the very very long tubing...
tongue.gif

450
 
#10 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rognin View Post

Thanks!
The FT02 comes with slide out air filters (installed beneath the fans). I also added the Silverstone 180mm fan grills on the top of the fans to hide the stickers and give it a sleeker look. You can't see those because of the paper towels covering them up.
Ah, that's right. The RV02's filters are inside the case. Guess I'll have to get creative for a removable filter.
 
#11 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by mironccr345 View Post

Ah, that's right. The RV02's filters are inside the case. Guess I'll have to get creative for a removable filter.
You can call Silverstone in the US and ask for the filters and fan mounts for the FT02. Might make it a little easier. Also depends on the cost of the parts though...
 
#12 ·
I think the issue with mine is that the dual 360-mm radiators, each one sandwiched between 6 fans make the side panel entirely too heavy. Though, there's no turning back now.
smile.gif
Besides, I like what they look like.
 
#13 ·
Did this tonight instead of the wiring. Boss wanted a small budget gaming puter. This fit the buill nicely. No mods, and he built it all with me supervising. I felt bad leaving for a day and giving you guys no pictures.
rolleyes.gif


450
 
#17 ·
Well a little update. My third GTX 580 is dead. Going to RMA it to EVGA. That's 3 in 3 nVidia video cards that died for me. I'm actually thinking of going back to the red team on my next build. These video cards have been nothing but trouble.

I'll be posting the little how-to guide for the tubes tonight.
 
#20 ·
Said I'd do it... so here's the tut.

Alright, basic tools and supplies.

- Dremel
- Glove(s) (with a plastic layering of sorts.)
- Tubing
- Steel Sleeving (TOS prohibits me from linking the e-bay where the item is sold I think. So google: STAINLESS STEEL OVERBRAID SLEEVING HOSE 19mm)
-ROTARY Compression fittings (as you'll need to install the tubes once they are complete)
450

First things first, you'll want to deremel the inside of this ring. That's without damaging the threads, I screwed two up in the whole fit. So if possible, get a couple extra fittings so you have extra rings.
450

Once you have those done, tape the end of your sleeving, dremel one end to have a straightcut ( (or as straight as possible). The tape on ALL cuts will help avoid a little fraying, and you want to avoid as much of it as possible for a nice job.
450

Once you've cut the end off, take your measurements for the next cut. The next step is to enter your tubing into the sleeving (gloves come in handy as of this step). Stretch the sleeving tight over the tube and tape it down. Painters tape works rather poorly, duck tape leaves residue (that metal sleeving warms up with you fiddling about with it, bad with duck tape) electric tape isn't that bad but you can't see where you have to cut. So I resorted to a marker for the cut line and painters tape, if anyone has some good tape they know will work speak up!
450

Once it's cut to perfection (lol) push the tubing in about 3" to 4".
450

Take the sleeve and your fitting. Hold the sleeving to compress it a little (round if possible as the steel can deform if you apply too much pressure). It'll make it easier to get the rings on the sleeving and avoid some unwanted fraying.
450

Put BOTH compression fittings over the sleeving, as once one is on you WILL NOT be able to get the other ring over the tubing without fraying the sleeving. If you have an end that might fray or caught in the compression rings threads, start screwing/unscrewing the ring over the sleeving. It'll get over it better without causing as much fraying.
450

Now you want to put the compression fitting into the tube, pull the sleeving over to the edge of the tube (not over the fittings threads!!). Bring the ring to the fitting and crew the fitting into the ring. That way the sleeving doesn't move and you can tighten it down.
450

450

See that glove, it avoids PURPLE fingers. Well it helps. That and the prickely end od the sleeving sometime startles you when it gets you good. Not fun.
450

So now you have yourself a sleeved tube.
thumb.gif


OP updated with tut.
 
#21 ·
AWESOME!!! really like the look, and totally original... Great job!!
 
#26 ·
Thanks!

Update, sent a TRI-SLI bridge to Dwood. I want a custom made sli bridge cover made of alu (or other shiney metal) with an LED lit logo. Will probably be the finishing touch.

Right now I'm 800miles away from my computer. So no real pics or updates until the 3rd of July.

Ohh OP updated for the MOTM nomination!
thumb.gif
 
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