Flat waterblock for direct-to-die cooling on Ivy bridge

I think it is a good idea for a suicide run but i would not do this if i plan on keeping my CPU

I can make my waterblock with any amount of bow including lapped flat as an assembly. I don't know if that is what you would want, or if you want a slight bow since the block deforms a slight bit due to mounting pressure.

I lapped my EK Supreme on a machined piece of granite before installing it on my de-lidded 3770k . Cranked it down pretty tight and then pulled it apart to check MX4 spread and die, everything was great . Only problem is that I changed my mind on case so I am waiting for my Azza Fusion 4000 , will be in on Monday - going nuts waiting !

The Danger Den DD-M6 waterblock is extremely flat without the various shims you can install, which should meet your needs.

I just did this.. with a xspc raystorm waterblock.. im running the XSPC Raystorm RX360 Extreme kit and ..

went from MX-4 to MX-4 to direct die + MX-4.. the temps dropped 9c if you factor in the 1c drop ambient temp.



I then further lowered the voltage from 1.335 to 1.280-1.300 and temps dropped another 4-5c

So right now im looking at over 15c lower temps on direct die.

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copy and pasting my post from another forum:

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I just did direct die with mx-4. keep in mind this is directly after placing the mx-4 on the die and no time to cure..
when i let mx-4 cure about 24-48hrs the temps drop another 2-3c atleast from my experience.

Ambient temps are 31C

Using the Raystorm water block, its so easy to get good / safe tension on the cpu without using the IHS.

I am not sure if i can tighten it down more or not but i got a 7-8C drop from mx-4 + mx-4 vs now direct die + mx-4 (no heat spreader).

Voltage is currently set high at 1.335

Running prime95 with Large FFT

This is with 48 hrs of the mx-4 being placed (30c ambient temps)



This is with 5minutes of the mx-4 being placed (31c ambient temps)

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I'd really love to see someone use a Swiftech Storm or Little River G4/G5 w/ a naked IB. These were the last blocks designed for DD cooling.

I didnt have to do anything except remove the retention bracket from the motherboard in the front and rear and just used the regular raystorm rear retention bracket and then used the heatsink like normal.. the raystorm works great for this, because heres exactly what you do..

heres exactly what you should do:

first make sure the second adjustment nut is adjusted so its directly against the top one on all 4.. so when you tighten down the screws you will bottom them out.
make sure you do this in a even criss cross pattern.. after you have them bottom'ed out then you adjust the lower nut on the screw and start adding real tension to the
heatsink against the die.. just go slow and make sure you have even pressure across all 4.. you will hear the paste make some noise once you start tightening it down..

how far to go? i dont know.. but i went pretty tight as far as my middle finger and thumb could get them.. i wanna say its about 5ft/lbs or something.

just adjust it until you feel it really starting to get tight.. you dont wanna go to far or from what ive read you can crush the die? i dont see how.. but i guess its possible.

supposedly the raystorm is not 100% flat? i would check myself with a feeler gauge and machinist ruler but i already have it on and dont feel like taking it off again.

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also id like to add my temps did drop a good bit more.. 2-3c less now after letting the mx-4 settle in.

i can run prime95 now for 10min with keeping temps under 70c with about the same hot ambient temps.

id like to test liquid pro directly against the die and block but i dont want it hurting my block.. i read that stuff
can screw the block up to the point it needs lapped.
Edited by tscompusa - 6/18/12 at 5:09pm

I am tempted to try this as a I have a delidded 3570K and a Raystorm block as well oO