Overclock.net › Forums › Components › Monitors and Displays › Potalion 2710QW Monitor Club
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Potalion 2710QW Monitor Club - Page 25

post #241 of 322
Blinking green is essentially a sleep mode (if you will) for the monitor size ATM there is no signal being sent to the monitor (and so it blinds green). The monitor wobbles a little because the stand isn't that great but it's not bad at all unless you have an earthquake going on or something lol (even if I shake my rather unstable desk it hardly moves at all). But I recommend you to double check thay the stand is secured properly to the base of the monitor. If you look on the bottom of the stand it should show a "Front", make sure it is orientated correctly and push it in hard so the tabs are locked in place and then screw the screw in tightly without stripping the threads. I found that if I don't do all of that properly, I'd have a more wobbly stand. Cheers!

P.S. does your monitor wake from sleep properly with your Mac because sometimes mine seems to not want to wake up properly (MacBook Pro 13-in Mid-2012 refresh).
Buena Vista
(18 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Core i7 4790K [4.6GHz] [1.25V] Asus Maximus VII Formula [BIOS 3003] NVIDIA GTX 1080 Ti FE [2050MHz] [12GHz QDR] Samsung MV-3V4G3 16GB (4x4GB) DDR3 2133 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Intel 535 Series 240GB [RAID 1] Crucial M500 960GB Seagate Barracuda 3TB Western Digital VelociRaptor 500GB [RAID 0] 
CoolingCoolingOSMonitor
Corsair H110i GT (Qty 2) Phanteks PH-F140XP Microsoft Windows 10 Pro [64-bit] Dell S2716DG [G-Sync] 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Razer BlackWidow Chroma EVGA Supernova G2 1300W NZXT H440 [Black/Red] Logitech G900 
Mouse PadAudio
Razer Firefly Logitech G933 
  hide details  
Reply
Buena Vista
(18 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Core i7 4790K [4.6GHz] [1.25V] Asus Maximus VII Formula [BIOS 3003] NVIDIA GTX 1080 Ti FE [2050MHz] [12GHz QDR] Samsung MV-3V4G3 16GB (4x4GB) DDR3 2133 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Intel 535 Series 240GB [RAID 1] Crucial M500 960GB Seagate Barracuda 3TB Western Digital VelociRaptor 500GB [RAID 0] 
CoolingCoolingOSMonitor
Corsair H110i GT (Qty 2) Phanteks PH-F140XP Microsoft Windows 10 Pro [64-bit] Dell S2716DG [G-Sync] 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Razer BlackWidow Chroma EVGA Supernova G2 1300W NZXT H440 [Black/Red] Logitech G900 
Mouse PadAudio
Razer Firefly Logitech G933 
  hide details  
Reply
post #242 of 322
Works for me from sleep mode.
Edited by mikeseth - 3/12/13 at 11:14am
post #243 of 322
Hi people,

Out of curiosity, I'm in UK... and the only place I can find this Monitor is eBay.

am I right in thinking you're purchasing this from the same place?

If not, can you shed some light on this please? PM Possibly?

Found one on eBay, and that's £235 free delivery, which is about $350-380?

Thanks,

Darryl
post #244 of 322
PPP or Professional is the way to go.
Edited by mikeseth - 3/12/13 at 11:14am
post #245 of 322
I bought three of those Monoprice stands that people keep talking about. Honestly...these Monoprice stands pretty much suck. I'm going back to the ones the LCDs came with.
Edited by Particle - 7/14/12 at 2:37pm
post #246 of 322
Quote:
Originally Posted by Particle View Post

I bought three of those Monoprice stands that people keep talking about. Honestly...these Monoprice stands pretty much suck. I'm going back to the ones the LCDs came with.

Any particular reason you would say that?
post #247 of 322
I was first a bit miffed that the main screw that keeps the post attached to the V-shaped base isn't flush. At maximum tightness, it protrudes a bit. On my plastic desk it's not a big deal, but if I had a nice wood desk it'd scratch the heck out of it with any small bump. I imagine most units are probably fine, but right away it raises QC concerns for me.

The second thing that bothered me was how all adjustments are made manually via allen wrench. You're expected to loosen three hex head bolts, move the display, and tighten them again for any small adjustment. You really need two people to do this properly. Mounting the display to the main post really also needs two people to do it safely since you'll either need to hold the display or the stand with one hand while you tighten the bolts with the other. I did it solo, but it was annoying and risky.

The third thing that bothered me was that despite the annoying locking method outlined above, it doesn't even work. At full tightness, the display can still rotate without much effort. It's not secure in the position I'm trying to lock it into. The slightest bump makes the display shake on its stand just as much as the stock stands. I don't feel safe leaving it alone. It very well might give up and let the screen free fall.

The final straw was that I was going to go and tighten the bolts some more but discovered that the hex head on at least one bolt had already managed to strip out.

I find them to be pretty junky.
post #248 of 322
Quote:
Originally Posted by Particle View Post

I was first a bit miffed that the main screw that keeps the post attached to the V-shaped base isn't flush. At maximum tightness, it protrudes a bit. On my plastic desk it's not a big deal, but if I had a nice wood desk it'd scratch the heck out of it with any small bump. I imagine most units are probably fine, but right away it raises QC concerns for me.
The second thing that bothered me was how all adjustments are made manually via allen wrench. You're expected to loosen three hex head bolts, move the display, and tighten them again for any small adjustment. You really need two people to do this properly. Mounting the display to the main post really also needs two people to do it safely since you'll either need to hold the display or the stand with one hand while you tighten the bolts with the other. I did it solo, but it was annoying and risky.
The third thing that bothered me was that despite the annoying locking method outlined above, it doesn't even work. At full tightness, the display can still rotate without much effort. It's not secure in the position I'm trying to lock it into. The slightest bump makes the display shake on its stand just as much as the stock stands. I don't feel safe leaving it alone. It very well might give up and let the screen free fall.
The final straw was that I was going to go and tighten the bolts some more but discovered that the hex head on at least one bolt had already managed to strip out.
I find them to be pretty junky.

I've done many different mounts at many offices, some are surely better than others, but with the exception of the allen wrench adjustment, all the "arms" has the same issues.
To avoid most of the above, the only thing you can really do is go with a stand without the arm, i find something such as the SANUS SYSTEMS MD103-G1 works well.
Edited by hakkafusion - 7/16/12 at 1:08pm
post #249 of 322
Rookie question, I received my monitor today, perfect pixel as far as I can tell. The backlight bleed is pretty bad though, the calibration tools other used to equalize the spectrum spread across the screen, does this equalize the bleed by darkening the corners, or is that just to remove discolorations if they are present. Again srry for the possibly dumb question and thx in advance
post #250 of 322
Quote:
Originally Posted by kaine1688 View Post

Rookie question, I received my monitor today, perfect pixel as far as I can tell. The backlight bleed is pretty bad though, the calibration tools other used to equalize the spectrum spread across the screen, does this equalize the bleed by darkening the corners, or is that just to remove discolorations if they are present. Again srry for the possibly dumb question and thx in advance

It's impossible to fix backlight issues from a software tweak as far as I know.
Edited by mikeseth - 3/12/13 at 11:15am
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Monitors and Displays
Overclock.net › Forums › Components › Monitors and Displays › Potalion 2710QW Monitor Club