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[Official] Corsair Vengeance C70 Gaming Case Owner Club - Page 340

post #3391 of 8430
I found some rubbers but the buttons are a tight squeeze through. I guess I should drill the grommet's opening bigger? lol not much of a choice here

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post #3392 of 8430
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDevouringOne View Post

Thank you! I am taping it up for some yellow paint. I am working with the design and probably wont have it painted until later this month. I was debating between yellow and red and when I saw B-Negative's build a while back I knew it had to be yellow. Of course then I also decided that I needed to plumb it with copper pipe too haha

Here is the design so far (again sorry for the bad iPhone pictures but its all I have)
[IMG ALT=""]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1447180/width/500/height/1000[/IG] Im also debating on what to do with the front....I am tempted to paint the bay res/pump and the fan controller and possibly try to match the green which would be a lot of work or do something else with it. Im going for the rugged military look. Originally i was going to paint them but when I put them in just to see, I was surprised in how good they looked and fit the theme without paint.[IMG ALT="AppleMark"]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1447187/width/500/height/1000[/IG] Ill try to update as I go along. Dental school is wrecking my life right now and I am waiting on Haswell so progress will be slow. Will most likely get 4770K + Z87 sabertooth (original I know lol) I do know one thing though. Amazon loves me and the UPS guy hates my guts.....[IMG ALT="AppleMark"]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1447192/width/500/height/1000[/IG] Thats not even all the boxes either......

Yea man keep it up. I feel your pain with school (luckily im done for the summer now). I was planning on doing an orange and green too for that same military/industrial look but I opted out for a WW2 style. I am going green and white now.



That's my inspiration. I'm just about done but I have to paint the star on the backside. I have no idea how im gonna do it but I would like to have it done this summer.

This is what my case looks like



It's a little different now because I got an SP fan to go on the back of the bottom cage and on my cpu heatsink. Also got this led kit which im trying to mod. But as you can see, it slowly comes together.
Edited by Slaughtahouse - 5/7/13 at 8:52am
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post #3393 of 8430
I wouldn't be able to do that with my PS the AX1200i is a bit longer, ALSO I do not recommend a radiator placement their

Heat rises so going from bottom front to top back is the ideal flow of air.

bottom should be intake and top exhaust.

as the heat rising will help it move the air as well.

going against the thermal/fluid dynamics of AIR is detrimental to the cooling, perhaps 10 degrees perhaps only 2 but I am sure it will be noticeable.

not to mention you make the pump work harder, it has to pump the water thru the radiator AND then back up, the pump should pump upwards u- restricted, the less head height the pump has the better it will pump.

place a flow meter right after the radiator and you will see what I mean than if you had the pump pumping into the radiator first (at the top) and the water "falls" out of the radiator. being as the Radiator is the most restrictive piece. although there are some blocks that have some odd flow patterns lol

not to mention that the flow to the ground will make the flow restricted (air cooling flow) meaning the air will bottleneck at the ground.

now if you have it as an intake the cpu will be cold BUT you have all that heat rising through the case.

moral of the story:

mount radiator on the top inside or outside as an exhaust, OR on the back outside.

OR you can reverse the case flow and mount the rad on the drive bay where the stock fans where make it push- pull NAD put fans on the inside of the front panel.

intake thru sides and back and bottom, and out thru front (and radiator) and top. (for pos pressure)
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post #3394 of 8430
Quote:
Originally Posted by kizwan View Post

If you plan to get another 670 later or any SLI setup, I think better get two 240mm radiator. Push/pull is optional but I suggest it because it will improved thermal performance. There is enough clearance for push/pull. The PSU is 180mm long, it's going to be tight fit because of the PSU cables. The length of EX240 radiator is 275mm. Schematic available here:-
http://www.xs-pc.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/EX240.pdf

You can see picture of EX240 radiator at the bottom a couple pages back but my PSU is non-modular & only 160mm long.

I'm using XSPC D5 Dual Bay Reservoir/Pump Combo which is located in optical bay. D5 pump is a good pump & should be more than enough for your water cooling setup. The only thing I don't like is the tube to the reservoir/pump is longer than I like. The longer tube is necessary because I can pull the res/pump a little bit to the front for filling/refilling coolant to reservoir. Other than that it's a nice reservoir/pump combo. Another type is tube reservoir like this:-
http://www.dazmode.com/store/product/bitspower_water_tank_z-multi_250_-_60mm_tube_reservoir_-_clear/

You can buy D5 top upgrade kit:-
http://www.dazmode.com/store/product/dual-single-d5-top-upgrade-kit-250-ice-blue-tube-black-pom-cap/

and you'll get like this (picture is only an example. found the picture in this forum. disregard the dual-pump in the picture):-


I think with tube reservoir, the tubing will be shorter but as always if you want it look nice, you'll need a lot of angle & rotary fittings. Much easier to refill too. Other than features, there should not be any difference in performance if both use same pump.

I didn't think of how much longer the tubing would have to be in order to access a drive bay reservoir, I definitely think I'm going to go with a tube reservoir instead to try and get a cleaner look.

As far as the angle and rotary fittings go I think I've decided on the monsoon fittings, but I'd probably buy those last since I'm not sure of all the different ones that I would need.

After I realized that SSD's are so small I could probably just mount them on the back of my motherboard tray, I'm tempted to go ahead and install a 360 on the top and a 120 in back so that I don't have to have a radiator mounted on the bottom. And Also after seeing the "stealth" drives I wouldn't care which bay my drive is in with that mod.
post #3395 of 8430
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by wrath6647 View Post

As far as the angle and rotary fittings go I think I've decided on the monsoon fittings, but I'd probably buy those last since I'm not sure of all the different ones that I would need.
True. You'll only know after you test fit the blocks, radiators & tubing. Over here it's now almost 5 months local shop out-of-stock for fittings. I waited almost three months & able to get some of the fittings. This ended up me having four brands in my loop; XSPC, Koolance, Monsoon & Enzotech. They are either chrome or silver shining which are good because they look almost the same.
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post #3396 of 8430
Quote:
Originally Posted by sebar View Post

Here is the space between my AX650 and an XSPC RX240. I had to push the rad as far forward as possible I also pulled the rad as far as I could towards the door and mounted using four screws thru the bottom ventilation holes. I also used rubber washers to compensate for the uneven floor panel. I hope that makes sense.
radC70.jpg

Ideal Case cooling.


i hope that thats not intake as it will blow hot air however its probably better if exhaust BUT it will also be detrimental due to the fact the air is being obstructed by the ground (even though it has some elevation)
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post #3397 of 8430
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slaughtahouse View Post

Yea man keep it up. I feel your pain with school (luckily im done for the summer now). I was planning on doing an orange and green too for that same military/industrial look but I opted out for a WW2 style. I am going green and white now.



That's my inspiration. I'm just about done but I have to paint the star on the backside. I have no idea how im gonna do it but I would like to have it done this summer.

This is what my case looks like

That jeep is really neat. Your build looks great. The white and green go very well together. I cant wait to see it with the white star. If Sebar does another round of windows Im going to have to jump on it because they really do look fantastic. I am thinking about putting some LEDs under the motherboard so that they set off a soft glow that lights up the case a little bit and possibly some other LEDs probably white to light up the case just a tad more.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fieldsweeper View Post

I wouldn't be able to do that with my PS the AX1200i is a bit longer, ALSO I do not recommend a radiator placement their

Heat rises so going from bottom front to top back is the ideal flow of air.

bottom should be intake and top exhaust.

as the heat rising will help it move the air as well.

going against the thermal/fluid dynamics of AIR is detrimental to the cooling, perhaps 10 degrees perhaps only 2 but I am sure it will be noticeable.

not to mention you make the pump work harder, it has to pump the water thru the radiator AND then back up, the pump should pump upwards u- restricted, the less head height the pump has the better it will pump.

place a flow meter right after the radiator and you will see what I mean than if you had the pump pumping into the radiator first (at the top) and the water "falls" out of the radiator. being as the Radiator is the most restrictive piece. although there are some blocks that have some odd flow patterns lol

not to mention that the flow to the ground will make the flow restricted (air cooling flow) meaning the air will bottleneck at the ground.

now if you have it as an intake the cpu will be cold BUT you have all that heat rising through the case.

moral of the story:

mount radiator on the top inside or outside as an exhaust, OR on the back outside.

OR you can reverse the case flow and mount the rad on the drive bay where the stock fans where make it push- pull NAD put fans on the inside of the front panel.

intake thru sides and back and bottom, and out thru front (and radiator) and top. (for pos pressure)

I am going after looks at the moment I plan on getting two 790's or two 8990's in the future and when I am generating that kind of heat I will plan smarter but at the moment I have 360 + 120 + 240 for a single 4770k. The biggest drawback in my opinion is the negative pressure but even that isn't a big deal to me. Its not the most efficient setup but I really like the yellow rings facing toward the inside of the case where I can see them. Thank you for the advice on the setup when I get those monster cards I will most likely have no choice but to rearrange my loop but since I wont have any GPU eye candy until 2013-2014 I will have to make due with my yellow fans tongue.gif
post #3398 of 8430
Oh I made my window. But yes, contact Sebar for your own unless you want to make your own.

edit: It only took me all day to do but I finally got it done. Took forever to grind down the rubber perfectly. I used a dremel and just slowly worked at it till I made a 1/2" opening, into a .635". Buttons dont stick out like they should due to the lip of the rubber on the inside but besides that, im more then happy.

Never doing that again... lol



Edited by Slaughtahouse - 5/7/13 at 2:22pm
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post #3399 of 8430
The 5.25 bay cover mod looks awsome, very well done.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fieldsweeper View Post

Ideal Case cooling.


i hope that thats not intake as it will blow hot air however its probably better if exhaust BUT it will also be detrimental due to the fact the air is being obstructed by the ground (even though it has some elevation)

That may be the case if you here air cooling, With water cooling it makes no difference. The bottom rad is intaking cool air, the top rad is exhausting air, the front 140mm fan is intaking cool air and pushing thru the drive cage, and the back 120mm fan is exhausting air. There is a slight positive pressure inside the case and everything stays nice and cool.

IMG_3661_zpsc6d29a2d.jpg
Edited by sebar - 5/7/13 at 3:23pm
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post #3400 of 8430
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slaughtahouse View Post

Oh I made my window. But yes, contact Sebar for your own unless you want to make your own.

edit: It only took me all day to do but I finally got it done. Took forever to grind down the rubber perfectly. I used a dremel and just slowly worked at it till I made a 1/2" opening, into a .635". Buttons dont stick out like they should due to the lip of the rubber on the inside but besides that, im more then happy.

Never doing that again... lol Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

The MOD looks muck better.
I prefer the "low-profile" look of the knobs
good job thumb.gif
Edited by Buehlar - 5/7/13 at 3:38pm
Mid-Lif Cry-Sys
(23 items)
 
ROG-red
(23 items)
 
Ebony & Ivory
(10 items)
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
i7 3770K ASUS Maximus V Formula ASUS R9 290X DirectCU II OC Edition ASUS R9 290X DirectCU II OC Edition 
RAMHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Corsair Vengeance Sandisk Extreme II Sandisk Extreme II Seagate 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
Seagate Seagate Seagate ASUS 12x BR Writer 
CoolingCoolingOSMonitor
Water Cooled EK Win 7 Pro ASUS VS238H-P 
MonitorMonitorKeyboardPower
ASUS VS238H-P ASUS VS238H-P CYBORG V.7 Gaming Keyboard Corsair AX1200i 
CaseMouseAudio
Dimastech EasyXL Mad Catz CYBORG M.M.O. 7 Genius SW-G5.1 3500 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
i7 3770K ASUS Maximus V Formula ASUS HD7870 DirectCU II v2 GHz Edition ASUS HD7870 DirectCU II v2 GHz Edition 
RAMHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Corsair Vengeance Sandisk Sandisk Seagate 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
Seagate Seagate Seagate ASUS 12x BR Writer 
CoolingCoolingOSMonitor
Water Cooled EK Win 7 Pro ASUS VS238H-P 
MonitorMonitorKeyboardPower
ASUS VS238H-P ASUS VS238H-P CYBORG V.7 Gaming Keyboard Corsair AX850 
CaseMouseAudio
Corsair Vengeance C70 Mad Catz CYBORG M.M.O. 7 Genius SW-G5.1 3500 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Core i7 4790K ASUS Z97I-PLUS EVGA GeForce GTX 970 SC HyperX Fury White Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin... 
Hard DriveHard DriveOSMonitor
Crucial MX200 500GB M.2 Samsung 850 EVO 1TB SSD  Windows 8.1 Pro - 64-bit Sharp Aquos 60" 1080p 
KeyboardPower
Logitech K830 Silverstone SX600-G 
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Mid-Lif Cry-Sys
(23 items)
 
ROG-red
(23 items)
 
Ebony & Ivory
(10 items)
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
i7 3770K ASUS Maximus V Formula ASUS R9 290X DirectCU II OC Edition ASUS R9 290X DirectCU II OC Edition 
RAMHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Corsair Vengeance Sandisk Extreme II Sandisk Extreme II Seagate 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
Seagate Seagate Seagate ASUS 12x BR Writer 
CoolingCoolingOSMonitor
Water Cooled EK Win 7 Pro ASUS VS238H-P 
MonitorMonitorKeyboardPower
ASUS VS238H-P ASUS VS238H-P CYBORG V.7 Gaming Keyboard Corsair AX1200i 
CaseMouseAudio
Dimastech EasyXL Mad Catz CYBORG M.M.O. 7 Genius SW-G5.1 3500 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
i7 3770K ASUS Maximus V Formula ASUS HD7870 DirectCU II v2 GHz Edition ASUS HD7870 DirectCU II v2 GHz Edition 
RAMHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Corsair Vengeance Sandisk Sandisk Seagate 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
Seagate Seagate Seagate ASUS 12x BR Writer 
CoolingCoolingOSMonitor
Water Cooled EK Win 7 Pro ASUS VS238H-P 
MonitorMonitorKeyboardPower
ASUS VS238H-P ASUS VS238H-P CYBORG V.7 Gaming Keyboard Corsair AX850 
CaseMouseAudio
Corsair Vengeance C70 Mad Catz CYBORG M.M.O. 7 Genius SW-G5.1 3500 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Core i7 4790K ASUS Z97I-PLUS EVGA GeForce GTX 970 SC HyperX Fury White Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin... 
Hard DriveHard DriveOSMonitor
Crucial MX200 500GB M.2 Samsung 850 EVO 1TB SSD  Windows 8.1 Pro - 64-bit Sharp Aquos 60" 1080p 
KeyboardPower
Logitech K830 Silverstone SX600-G 
  hide details  
Reply
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