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post #581 of 8430
Quote:
Originally Posted by thestache View Post

I just never realized one would fit. Since that picture popped up I've ordered one and fans and am doing it also. Will give everyone a good run down of how I did it and how much room there is left over with my set-up. Going to be using a Koolance 360mm. CU1020V.

Great biggrin.gif I ordered an Airplex 360mm with 2 loops. I am as excited as the day I got the C70! Hurry up mail man
post #582 of 8430
Quote:
Originally Posted by B NEGATIVE View Post

Its very simple,just measure up for the end fan screw holes on the rad ,drill the case and screw it in.
Or use the holes in the mesh to anchor it.

would need longer screws if you are just using the mesh?

[Mod Edit] Removed reference to deleted post.
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post #583 of 8430
Quote:
Originally Posted by RKTGX95 View Post

would need longer screws if you are just using the mesh?
Yes,about 4-5mm longer.
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post #584 of 8430
Quote:
Originally Posted by B NEGATIVE View Post

Yes,about 4-5mm longer.

and i guess that of the total 12 screws, 8 of them would be the longer ones that attach to the mesh right? (so what is the screw length overall should be? 12mm? 5mm? etc)

also, what would you say is the maximum thickness for a 360 top rad?


(btw, your client is very lucky to have you and your skill in that build)
Edited by RKTGX95 - 11/23/12 at 7:46am
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post #585 of 8430
Quote:
Originally Posted by RKTGX95 View Post

and i guess that of the total 12 screws, 8 of them would be the longer ones that attach to the mesh right? (so what is the screw length overall should be? 12mm? 5mm? etc)
also, what would you say is the maximum thickness for a 360 top rad?
(btw, your client is very lucky to have you and your skill in that build)

I used four screws,one in each corner of the rad and drilled thru the case,if you are going the mesh route then use as many as you can get in.
The EX is the thickest that will go in,even then it has to be offset slightly to avoid fouling the mobo.
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post #586 of 8430
Quote:
Originally Posted by B NEGATIVE View Post

I used four screws,one in each corner of the rad and drilled thru the case,if you are going the mesh route then use as many as you can get in.
The EX is the thickest that will go in,even then it has to be offset slightly to avoid fouling the mobo.

i was thinking then on the Alphacool ST30 rad, which is great performing for its thickness at most speeds. (would the corsair sp quiet or performance fans work on it well?)

and what should be the screw length to not puncture the rad?
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post #587 of 8430
Quote:
Originally Posted by RKTGX95 View Post

i was thinking then on the Alphacool ST30 rad, which is great performing for its thickness at most speeds. (would the corsair sp quiet or performance fans work on it well?)
and what should be the screw length to not puncture the rad?
That should work.
10mm will be ok if you are going thru the mesh
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post #588 of 8430
Are we done? Can we move on?

Has anybody painted one of these yet? What is the process of doing it right? I'm thinking of painting it primer gray and slowly working it into a fighter jet theme of sorts. I'd like to paint the inside too if it isn't TOO much more difficult. I just don't want issues with standoffs getting filled with too much paint or other possible complications like that.
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post #589 of 8430
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisTahoe View Post

Are we done? Can we move on?
Has anybody painted one of these yet? What is the process of doing it right? I'm thinking of painting it primer gray and slowly working it into a fighter jet theme of sorts. I'd like to paint the inside too if it isn't TOO much more difficult. I just don't want issues with standoffs getting filled with too much paint or other possible complications like that.


Get some old standoffs and screw them in to the threads before painting then remove them when you are done.

Degrease the painted parts you want to repaint.
Key the surface with a scotchbrite,green is a good grade for this.
Clean with a tack rag
Primer using thin coats to build coverage
Let it dry 36 hrs
Key again and start to build coats of your chosen colour,thin rather than thick is the trick to this.
When you have achieved coverage,leave for 36hrs, key again using a grey scotchbrite.
Apply your chosen lacquer,thin rather than thick coats.

Leave for 2-3 weeks then hit it with a buffing mop for a gloss finish.

Warm paint and a warm room is a must.

When building coats up,leave 4-5 mins between coats for the paint to flash off.
Edited by B NEGATIVE - 11/24/12 at 3:54am
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post #590 of 8430
Hey Guys,

Responding to Tianh here as well so I hope you see this buddy!

I am completely new to these forums in general and building computers, but as B NEGATIVE has said getting the 360 radiator to fit is not hard at all.

I looked at the build from B NEGATIVE and saw that he managed to fit a 360 radiator in the top, that is all I went on and purchased a 360 radiator for my own build, I wanted a 360 radiator and two 120 radiators to follow the rule of thumb that everyone has told me, 120mm of radiator for each component you are water cooling, so I needed 5 x 120mm real estate to follow the rule and have enough for my setup.

Now I have trolled these forums a LOT and saw people who have placed 240 radiators at the bottom, after measuring it became practically impossible to be able to fit a 240 radiator in the bottom of my case, I would of loved to but with a modular power supply it just cannot be done, it is way too tight for my comfort!

So I had to turn to a 360 in the top, and two 120 radiators in the bottom and back exhaust fan of the case which worked out really well, but here is the info you are all wanting to know I guess:

I purposely chose a really thin 360mm radiator so I knew when I added fans to the mix the clearance to motherboard and any other components was not a problem but there are still some things you have to do to the case to make it fit, but they are VERY MINOR.

1. The "tabs" in the top compartment of the front of the case, where you put your optical drives and whatnot, the top tabs, the ones that will be closest to the 360 radiator need to be pushed down and flattened to the sides of that compartment, the radiator cant get past them unless you flatten these tabs out, they are steel but if you are strong you can push them down with your hand strength alone.

2. There is a cross beam in the top compartment I have mentioned that might get in your way depending on the thickness of your 360 radiator and fans, I drilled this out and removed it completely, I had no idea what it is for but it was pointless and annoying so I removed it, you will need a drill to get through the pot rivets and remove this bar.

Those where the only two modifications I did to get the 360mm radiator in, now the space from the front end of the radiator and the front I/O console on the case is very close, so much so that its a good idea to cable tie those cables up together nice and tight and weave them to the side and out through one of the holes in the back cable management area of the case so they do not get caught up with the radiator.

Also to note, depending how anal you are about levels and securing your 360 radiator, there is a small curve in the steel frame at the front of the case in the top section, where it droops to make room for the front handle on the top of the case, this is a problem if you simply must have your radiator exactly level all the way, what I did was suspend the radiator just on the holes available for a typical 240mm radiator, I did not want to drill holes in the top of my case.

I simply worked out the difference between the heights from the back of the case to the front of the case and put washers on the back, and middle sections (where the normal 240mm radiator holes are) to compensate for how short it was going to be at the front. That gave me a nice level radiator.

Hope this helps, sorry for the wall of text.

Typhrus
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