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[WORKLOG] Hydro Processor / Water Chip

post #1 of 79
Thread Starter 
Hello Everybody!
I'm IT student from Poland, fan of overclocking and modding PC:)

I'm new to this forum, and I would like to introduce myself by starting my own worklog, hope You'll enjoy it smile.gif

This will be my first neat-looking watercooling setup, as 2 before were just hmm... not quite beautiful? wink.gif

Also, this build will be done as cheap as possible, and my main goals are silence and efficiency.
I don't see sense in investing greater amount of money in computer case and cooling system instead of buying better parts,
so I'll try to make this project universal for future hardware updates -
that means I'll use universal blocks, and make mounting systems for stuff to come.

I must mention that many parts I used since beginning were made by myself from junk, scrap metal etc. to save the costs.
I'll try them look as good as possible with my limited workshop (which is very limited right now).


Some specs:
  • Case: Aerocool PGS-VS9 - because it matched radiator's dimensions, SECC, many holes for ventilation,
    and because it was really cheap + black interior already done
  • Radiator: From VW Polo IV/Seat Ibiza/Skoda Fabia 430 X 413 X 23 mm (for alu part)
  • Pump: Laing DDC1T
  • CPU Block: Heatkiller 3.0 FC
  • GPU: EK VGA Supreme HF
  • NB: haven't decided yet
  • Tubing: Masterkleer 13/10 White (with tiny metal tubes inside ends, to strengthen them for push-ins)
  • Fittings: Push-In 1/4 - 12mm (from compressed air systems)
  • Reservoir (if any): self made, from probably from polycarbonate


Future improvements:
  • Windowed side panel
  • Light system
  • Silencing case


PICS:


Before any work:


1068
1400


After first changes:



1400
1400
806
804
804


And new 30W fan motor:



402


You can see 400x400 fan from Tacens Sagitta II, but I decided to replace original motor with one from ventilation systems,
which has double sleeve bearing, and much more power.
I won't use that much - new motor has 2000rpm (...compared to original with 400 rpm/250cfm).

I will have to make some AC control system to that fan.

If have any, please ask questions, as there is too much to tell on my side and I don't want to spam messages that will bore You to death smile.gif



Cheers from Poland! smile.gif
Rhaziell

Edited by Rhaziell - 6/27/12 at 5:56pm
Water Chip
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post #2 of 79
Thread Starter 
Today's delivery smile.gif

402






Let's start with couplings smile.gif

Push-in fittings made for industrial pneumatics:
Material: nickled (chromed?) bronze + some tough plastic (it may be ABS, but I can be wrong)
Working temps: -20 to 60 'C
Max working pressure: 10 bar
Sealing: NBR sealing ring = O-ring

402





7x straight G1/4 with 12mm ID


497
20mm wide and 32mm long. Thread is 6mm long.



495
They have hexagonal hole of 7mm diagonal diameter inside of them.



568
I'll have to drill it to 8,5 mm, which is internal diameter from threaded side, to avoid unnecessary restriction on dual-loop setup.





90° Rotary: 2x G1/2 and 3x G1/4 12mm


402
The 2 G1/2 will be used on radiator. Compared to the G1/4, they are little bit longer (51mm vs 47mm). Thats because 1/2 use longer thread (10mm vs 6mm).



402
Beside straight fittings, no other have hexagonal hole inside of them.



402
Straight and 90 degree G1/4 fittings.





Other couplings/connections


402
Not much to say here, perhaps only that they look very solid.
I bought 2 Y splitters, 3 elbow connectors and 1 straight connector.

They will be used to manage tubing, especially hoses going through side panel where radiator is placed.
I think couple of them won't be used, I've bought them just in case tongue.gif





Fittings usage! smile.gif


584
As You can see, it's possible to put two straight 12mm push-in's on Heatkiller! smile.gif
They look really badass for me



402
Mounting second fitting is only possible, when first fitting is mounted in certain position: side of first must be parallel to second one.
It's manageable to screw them in to the end of theirs thread, and hide almost all of the o-ring.



402


402


402
Without a proper key I wasn't able to place second elbow nozzle on waterblock, and that's because it's impossible to rotate those fittings in hands.
However, I can tell, that two of those would fit without bigger problem.



402
I've found logo on just one of fittings: "Flowmatik".





Hose

This tubing, like fittings, was made specially for industrial pneumatics
Material: Polyurethane
Max working pressure: 10 bar


402
12 mm OD and 8 ID makes walls 2mm thick, and with this material it's really stiff.



402
Vendor says that this material is not ageing, it's many times more durable than rubber and similar, and that it's very extensible and flexible.
I can say that it's very tough to bend. I read also that it has 65mm bending diameter, let's see...



402

402

402

402

65 mm outer bending diameter is great result. It can be bend little more to 60mm, but we can see that it's close to the limit - 58mm would break this hose.




402
Word about tightness of fittings with this tubing: it's excellent, it went way over my expectations. It almost feels like You could hang on this hose while it's connected with one of those fittings.
I haven't tested it yet with any liquid, but I'm not worried about any leaks, because of what I experienced with it so far smile.gif
Internal diameter is only 8 mm, that's I'll also try with Masterkleer 12,7/10 mm tubing, wonder how that will compete with this one in case of flexibility.


Let's move to the last part...






Price to pay


402

I've paid 100 Polish zloty (PLN) for 18 elements and 3m tubing: 7x straight, 5x elbow, 2x Y, 3 elbow connectors, 1 straight connector, with shipment price included, but not free.
Currently, 1 USD is ~3.42 PLN => 29,24 $.
I just think that is very, very cheap comparing to 'specialized' watercooling fittings.

I used before barbs and compression fittings before, and I can tell, that these (push-fit) are the greatest of all I had. Push-in mechanism got me first time I tried it. It works flawlessly, of course with proper hose.
I can't accuse this particular polyurethane hose of anything, except low ID. Beside that, tubing performs greatly, and this is also the most flexible hose I ever had.
Price for all of this is icing on the cake smile.gif


I've underlined some parts just for You to know, that however I had some experience with watercooling, I'm not omniscient, and this is just my personal opinion.

it's 5 am in my country right now, hope You'll forgive me some mistakes I could made tongue.gif

Wish You great lecture smile.gif

Best regards
Rhaziell

PS I'll try to stay up to date with posting my test on this fittings 'n tubing.
Edited by Rhaziell - 6/22/12 at 8:08am
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post #3 of 79
Looks like a great build, cant wait to see how you integrate that car radiator.
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post #4 of 79
Looks good. Cant wait to see the finished product.
post #5 of 79
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by vwgti 
Looks like a great build, cant wait to see how you integrate that car radiator.

That's how:

402


Now I need only to thread polycarbonate tube which will fit into radiator outlets, and hold those 1/2" smile.gif
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post #6 of 79
Thread Starter 
I've lapped heatkiller today:




402
Before




402
After some polishing




402
After polishing with 2500 graded sandpaper




402
After using polishing paste




You can see in first picture, that my block really required polishing. I received it with that scratched bottom plate from vendor.
Lapping also showed that surface was little convex in the centre of the block.

Anyway, after some time (most time took me polishing with paste, about one and a half hour) I've finished with the result shown on last picture.

Tomorrow block will be plated with nickel smile.gif
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post #7 of 79
Interesting.... curious to see this finished smile.gif
 
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post #8 of 79

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post #9 of 79
Witamy witamy biggrin.gif I'm polish too, but I live in the states. Very interesting (in a good way) build you have going on here, I hope the core of that rad is not made from aluminium.
post #10 of 79
Thread Starter 
@ koniu777 Cześć! smile.gif

Unfortunately, the core and the rest of rad is made from alu. Also, the tubes in rad aren't connected serially to each other, so flow goes first through half of them, and then through the second half. Only good news are that this makes no restriction at all, and here all benefits ends frown.gif

I don't know yet if I'll modify the rad.

Thank's all You Guys for your interest in my build.

Will update soon ! smile.gif
Edited by Rhaziell - 6/26/12 at 6:11pm
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