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post #21 of 79
If you mix that car radiator with any copper you are going to have a plugged up system within 2 months due to galvanic reactions. As well, the pressure drop is going to be enormous for that car radiator... You are going to need to really modify it a bit to get a decent pressure head... Have you tested the loop at all for flow characteristics?
post #22 of 79
Is your radiator electrically isolated from your case? It looks like all the mounting hardware on the radiator itself is plastic, which is a very good thing.

Galvanic corrosion requires electrical contact in order to happen (besides the electrolyte solution, i.e. coolant). So as long as you keep that radiator isolated, you should have minimal corrosion.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PeteJM View Post

If you mix that car radiator with any copper you are going to have a plugged up system within 2 months due to galvanic reactions. As well, the pressure drop is going to be enormous for that car radiator... You are going to need to really modify it a bit to get a decent pressure head... Have you tested the loop at all for flow characteristics?

Why would the radiator be significantly restrictive? It's just a bunch of parallel tubes. It looks to only be dual pass too. Each of the tubes used in that radiator are quite a lot larger than the little heatercore like radiators that are normally used. I bet the pressure drop in that radiator is comparable if not less than a standard computer water cooling radiator.
Edited by earthwormjim - 6/30/12 at 4:55am
post #23 of 79
Thread Starter 
@PeteJM

The car radiator is only dual-pass, with 8mm tubing or so inside. It has less restriction then the tubes or anything I'll use in my loop. My only concerns are efficiency, and corrosion.

@earthwormjim

Radiator is electrically isolated from the case. I know that this is the one of the corrosion factors. Another one would be air inside radiator, but this one will be easy to bleed due to overall high OD.

I don't know which loop would be better: up or down through radiator?
Downward loop has this advantage, that pump would be on the bottom.

Early assumption was like this:


403



But now I have doubts about it. Maybe it would be better to reverse outlet & inlet from rad, and place pump at the top? I prefer reservoir at highest point, as it's better for bleeding the loop.
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post #24 of 79
Subb'd.

I did a quick 5 minute search of the fittings. One site listed push-in fittings for $30 and Flowmatic keeps popping up as some singer. I'll have to search more later.
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post #25 of 79
These fittings sure look interesting. Have you ever seen some with the blue plastic part being white? If so, they're totally going in my next loop.
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post #26 of 79
Quote:
Originally Posted by Snowmen View Post

These fittings sure look interesting. Have you ever seen some with the blue plastic part being white? If so, they're totally going in my next loop.

I've seen purple and red. I'd imagine there are probably other colors.
post #27 of 79
Quote:
Originally Posted by animal0307 View Post

I've seen purple and red. I'd imagine there are probably other colors.

How do you go about finding them... what are the key words?
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post #28 of 79
l'm not sure what you would have to do to find them. Your best bet would be to call a supplier and ask them. I've only seen them around our shop on machines or in out parts storage. I think different colors are meant for different applications such as line in, line out, etc.

Edit: spell checking. Stupid autocorrect
Edited by animal0307 - 7/3/12 at 4:32pm
post #29 of 79
Thread Starter 

It's nice to see some interest, at least in some parts I'm going use.
Yesterday I drilled through all the G 1/4" to 10mm ID, including angled ones :)

 

Drilled-through quick-lock fittings

 

If you'll ever decide to drill-through them just remember:

 

- clog the other end of fitting, then fill it with water to prevent overheating; measure temperature while drilling

- be sure to remove o-ring from threaded side, and secure inside sealing

- if you're drilling rotary ones, make sure you squeezed them very tight in clamp

 

I've done all of this by putting piece of original hose inside of the fittings, then put some other thing (I used 8mm drill) in the tube itself.

This stuff gets hot very quick, so you'll need to refill them with water, and make some breaks in drilling. Original ID was 8,5mm and I used drills: 9, 9.5, 10.

For removing internal allen key mount, use 8.5mm first.

I was using stationary motor drill with heavy vise to keep them in place. Motor was working at low speed.

 

I haven't done any proper test yet, except I tried to blow through them with other end closed, and didn't feel any leaks.

 

 

 

Btw. I've ordered new radiator, a BIGGER one, full copper, also automotive :D

Core dimensions are: 555x394x25

 

 

New copper car radiator ;)

 

 

 

 

 

For all of You looking for fittings - look for: air fittings, quick lock fittings, push lock fittings, and so on... Ebay example

 

They come in many varieties, I saw full black, chrome-red/orange, and chrome-blue ones.
There are also many different types of couplings and connectors with push lock technology.

 

Warning: You won't fit common hoses to them if OD is bigger than 12mm. (See post where I tried to use 10/13 Masterkleer).

Altought they hold pretty well common rubber hose with 12 mm OD, which is quite soft, but it's doable to draw them out with some force. (however they've passed blowing test ;))

 

Edit: They are also known as quick connect fittings, which is, when translated directly, most common name used for them in Poland.


Edited by Rhaziell - 7/3/12 at 6:00pm
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post #30 of 79
Where did you find a copper radiator? Usually the only alternative to Aluminum is Brass.
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