The screws are Philips and non-countersunk, and the metal of the screws feels really soft...it took only a few turns for the screw to strip. I'll get a picture up soon, I decided to go ahead and just use the card with the reference cooler on for the time being until I figure out how to fix it. The stripping is pretty bad, and both my #1 and #0 couldn't grab. I think I'll try needlenose pliers first and then onto superglue if that doesn't work. I'll keep everyone updated ![]()
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post #12 of 49
6/20/12 at 3:28pm
- dutchgenius
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needle nose vise grips, invest in a pair
http://www.sears.com/vise-grip-9-in-long-nose-locking-pliers/p-00917991000P?prdNo=11&blockNo=11&blockType=G11
http://www.sears.com/vise-grip-9-in-long-nose-locking-pliers/p-00917991000P?prdNo=11&blockNo=11&blockType=G11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dutchgenius 
needle nose vise grips, invest in a pair
http://www.sears.com/vise-grip-9-in-long-nose-locking-pliers/p-00917991000P?prdNo=11&blockNo=11&blockType=G11

needle nose vise grips, invest in a pair
http://www.sears.com/vise-grip-9-in-long-nose-locking-pliers/p-00917991000P?prdNo=11&blockNo=11&blockType=G11
Excellent, my dad has literally 3 pairs of those lying around. This just might work! 
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post #15 of 49
6/21/12 at 2:59am
- Teh Bottleneck
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A few weeks ago,I tried the same thing,I wanted to install Accellero Xtreme Plus on my ref Zotac 580 GTX,but one of the T6 screwheads got stripped.I tried some questionable methods,like pliers,trying with other screwdrivers,but all failed,also,making things worse,screws were glued in(there was a little of some blue stuff under the screwheads on some of the T6 screws),it seems Zotac doesn't support card modding.In the end,my hand slipped,and I scratched the PCB,killing my card,and any possible warranty 
Later,out of curiosity,I took my dead card,and once again attempted to remove the screw(I really wanted to see the reference cooler off),but this time with a drill.It worked flawlessly,wish I thought of that earilier.Only,if you take the drill method,make sure to clean the area around the screw with compresed air after you're finished,due to possible metal particles resulting from the drilling,they can short circuit,and damage your card...

Later,out of curiosity,I took my dead card,and once again attempted to remove the screw(I really wanted to see the reference cooler off),but this time with a drill.It worked flawlessly,wish I thought of that earilier.Only,if you take the drill method,make sure to clean the area around the screw with compresed air after you're finished,due to possible metal particles resulting from the drilling,they can short circuit,and damage your card...
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post #16 of 49
6/21/12 at 3:02am
- dafour
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Yep same here with a GTX480,couldnt get the gpu plate covering the whole thing off,3 of them where stuck.
I just drilled them out like many people said,and make sure you dont have any metal on the pcb.
I just drilled them out like many people said,and make sure you dont have any metal on the pcb.
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post #17 of 49
6/21/12 at 3:08am
- Riou
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Dremel with disc method is risky. Do not do this way because there is a high risk of failure on a graphics card pcb if you mess up. Avoid.
The screws on Nvidia graphics cards are usually countersunk or very thin. Needlenose pliers will likely not work, but you could try.
One method is to use a drill and slowly drill into the head of the screw. Start with a drill head that is much smaller than head of screw. Eventually the head of the screw will be gone from the tail of screw. Then you can remove the heatsink from the graphics card.
Be very careful. Get somebody else with more experience to do it if necessary.
Edited by Riou - 6/21/12 at 3:13am
The screws on Nvidia graphics cards are usually countersunk or very thin. Needlenose pliers will likely not work, but you could try.
One method is to use a drill and slowly drill into the head of the screw. Start with a drill head that is much smaller than head of screw. Eventually the head of the screw will be gone from the tail of screw. Then you can remove the heatsink from the graphics card.
Be very careful. Get somebody else with more experience to do it if necessary.
Edited by Riou - 6/21/12 at 3:13am
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Yep, that's what I'm paranoid about...scratching the PCB and severing traces. Definitely not going to use a dremel and the head of the screw is too thin to grab with needlenose pliers.
I'll probably ask my dad to help me with the drill, seems like the best bet.
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post #19 of 49
6/21/12 at 6:40am
- dutchgenius
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so it is a countersunk screw. use a small chisel if you have one and tap it (gently) into one of the lines of the Phillips +... if the metal is soft like you say, the chisel should cut in and then you can turn it. This is the same premise as the dremel but safer, just create a new notch to turn the screw head.
if you have the patience and good hands you can actually use a chisel to or a roll pin punch to slowly turn the screw by tapping it with a ball peen hammer. this is going to take some time though.
also, the screw extractors I linked earlier would work for this as well, drill out, hammer one in and start turning. odds are the screw is not even tightened THAT TIGHT, just need to get is started.
wish I was there to help you, love challenges like this.
if you have the patience and good hands you can actually use a chisel to or a roll pin punch to slowly turn the screw by tapping it with a ball peen hammer. this is going to take some time though.
also, the screw extractors I linked earlier would work for this as well, drill out, hammer one in and start turning. odds are the screw is not even tightened THAT TIGHT, just need to get is started.
wish I was there to help you, love challenges like this.
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post #20 of 49
6/21/12 at 10:13am

Have a dremel? you can use a small flat head screw driver....i'd actually say a small enough one would fit in there and grip as is.
Edited by Tyreal - 6/21/12 at 10:17am
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