Hi -
Just finished watercooling my reference design EVGA GTX670's.
I decided not to go with full cover blocks this time and ran into some unexpected hiccups. Put this together to help anyone who might go with a universal block on the reference gtx670.
My vrm chips weren't soldered perfectly flat and not all were the same height. So the Swiftech 14x14 copper heatsinks kept falling off. These normally stick really well - quality stuff!
My solution was to recreate the stock vrm heatsink in copper, so the copper heatsinks would stick and would work with airflow from the side.
Parts I used - EK Supreme HF bridge edition universal blocks, Bitspower fittings, Akust short copper heatsinks (for the ram chip under the block and on top of the backside of the gpu mobo), Swiftech 14x14 copper heatsinks, thermal tape (sorry, can't rember brand) and a leftover Cooler Master 70x15mm fan to blow air over the vrm heatsinks (it has a 7w inline resistor to cut the speed/noise down to a reasonable level).
Copper source - the plate from the stock heatsink
Clamp the heatsink in a vice, grab a large flat head screwdriver and your favorite hammer. Place the flat tip against the edge and one solid whack should send it flying.
This glue is also on the copper plate - 400 grit sand paper removed it quickly. CLEAN OFF DUST VERY THOUROUGHLY WHEN DONE.
Using a hacksaw and some fine files I cut and filed the plates to the exact size of the aluminum plate.
Grabbed a drill bit of the exact size of the stock hs holes, reused the push pins (didn't have any screws-nuts of the right size) and voila! I used calipers to measure the stock heatsink, the edge of a small file to score the cut lines on the copper plate and clamped it between two pieces of card stock so the vice would not gouge the plate.
When done I cleaned the heck out of it with tack clothes, brake cleaner and finally isopropyl alcohol.
I had just enough of the thermal tape left over from a DangerDen waterblock kit that I was able to cover the bottom with fresh tape (thick white stuff - looks just like the green stuff on the stock heatsink). I did have to use a little of the original tape, but it isn't advised since it stretches thin when pulling off the old part.
Add heatsinks and prepare for leak testing.
Installed - the cooler master fan is temporarily attached to the top gpu block. Will figure out something more elegent later.
Can't recall the last time I saw the southbridge chip in a gaming computer.
So far temps are awesome. Will update as I get data.
If you are wondering why I have the spacers before the 90 degree fittings - can't get the second one screwed down otherwise.
Edited by Fan o' water - 10/4/12 at 8:28pm
Just finished watercooling my reference design EVGA GTX670's.
I decided not to go with full cover blocks this time and ran into some unexpected hiccups. Put this together to help anyone who might go with a universal block on the reference gtx670.
My vrm chips weren't soldered perfectly flat and not all were the same height. So the Swiftech 14x14 copper heatsinks kept falling off. These normally stick really well - quality stuff!
My solution was to recreate the stock vrm heatsink in copper, so the copper heatsinks would stick and would work with airflow from the side.
Parts I used - EK Supreme HF bridge edition universal blocks, Bitspower fittings, Akust short copper heatsinks (for the ram chip under the block and on top of the backside of the gpu mobo), Swiftech 14x14 copper heatsinks, thermal tape (sorry, can't rember brand) and a leftover Cooler Master 70x15mm fan to blow air over the vrm heatsinks (it has a 7w inline resistor to cut the speed/noise down to a reasonable level).
Copper source - the plate from the stock heatsink
Clamp the heatsink in a vice, grab a large flat head screwdriver and your favorite hammer. Place the flat tip against the edge and one solid whack should send it flying.
This glue is also on the copper plate - 400 grit sand paper removed it quickly. CLEAN OFF DUST VERY THOUROUGHLY WHEN DONE.
Using a hacksaw and some fine files I cut and filed the plates to the exact size of the aluminum plate.
Grabbed a drill bit of the exact size of the stock hs holes, reused the push pins (didn't have any screws-nuts of the right size) and voila! I used calipers to measure the stock heatsink, the edge of a small file to score the cut lines on the copper plate and clamped it between two pieces of card stock so the vice would not gouge the plate.
When done I cleaned the heck out of it with tack clothes, brake cleaner and finally isopropyl alcohol.
I had just enough of the thermal tape left over from a DangerDen waterblock kit that I was able to cover the bottom with fresh tape (thick white stuff - looks just like the green stuff on the stock heatsink). I did have to use a little of the original tape, but it isn't advised since it stretches thin when pulling off the old part.
Add heatsinks and prepare for leak testing.
Installed - the cooler master fan is temporarily attached to the top gpu block. Will figure out something more elegent later.
Can't recall the last time I saw the southbridge chip in a gaming computer.
So far temps are awesome. Will update as I get data.
If you are wondering why I have the spacers before the 90 degree fittings - can't get the second one screwed down otherwise.
Edited by Fan o' water - 10/4/12 at 8:28pm
Mild Mod
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Mild Mod
(16 items) |
