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Subzero Insulation- "Photo Guide" - (my first experience)

post #1 of 22
Thread Starter 
So I've recently gotten myself into the subzero/extreme OC scene. But before I started pouring ln2, I decided to do a quick dry ice run to get the hang of the basics. One of these basics is the method used for insulating my hardware! After reading several guides at XS (some old, some newer) and another one posted by Sin0822 here on OCN, I decided to use the popular method of Liquid Electrical Tape (LET), kneaded art eraser, and closed-cell foam insulation.


Order of Operations:
  1. Liquid Electrical Tape
  2. Kneaded Art Eraser
  3. Foam/Shop Towels

The reason I have titled this a "Photo Guide" is because, well, I took a LOT of pictures. As such, each picture should speak for itself biggrin.gif That being said, I did provide a brief explanation of the pictures, along with a few lessons I learned along the way.


First up, we have the Z68XP-UD4 motherboard before any insulation.
301

My first order of business was to tape off the socket, dimm slots, power connectors, pcie slots, etc. and begin applying a coat of LET.
528

Once I had a nice coating on the top half of the board, I realized that I would not be able to paint the LET around the MOSFET heatsink. I should have taken off the MOSFET heatsink beforehand. This cost me some time because i had to wait for the LET to dry before I could remove the heatsink.
452

After removing the heatsink, I cut little squares of tape to cover up the individual ICs
394


444

After covering with tape, I just painted the LET all over the top left side of the board.
513

After that area was dry, I had to remove the little pieces of tape. This wasnt too difficult, but I wish I would have taken more care to avoid the ICs even though they were covered. If youtry to peel up a small square of dry LET, it tends to want to peel off the entire layer. Be careful not to do this.
360

The LET application step is now complete! Time for eraser!
Start by applying a little at a time
349

Slowly fill up the area around the socket.
469

I then closed the socket mechanism on top op the eraser
518

filled in the gaps between the hold-down and CPU
408

after the hold-down gaps are filled, I filled in all the gaps between the capacitors
524

I put a hefty coat of LET on the back of the board (this is when it was wet)
473

(this is when it was dry)
423

Next a poked the mounting rods through and threaded them into the backplate of the Gemini CPU pot
583

Folded blue show-towels (heavy duty paper towels) and made a border around the CPU
544

cut a square piece of armaflex closed-cell insulation foam, then cut a square out of the middle for the base of the gemini pot
544

taped the thermometer probe to the gemini pot
544

slipped the gemini pot into an armaflex insulation foam "sleeve" and mounted to the board
544

finally, wrapped paper towels around the entire setup and held in place with rubber bands
407

subzero cooling in action
570

So now that you have seen the steps and methods i used to insulate my gear for my first subzero experience, I ask myself:

"What would I have done differently?"


1. First and foremost, I would have put down a much thicker layer/coating of LET on the front of the board!! About TWICE as thick as you see in the pictures!! When it was time to remove the LET, it was kind of difficult because it kept breaking off little pieces at a time. If I had made the front layer as thick as the back, it would have been A LOT easier to remove

2. Remove ALL of the motherboard's heatsinks and tape up everything BEFORE you begin applying the LET

3. Buy a smaller (more fine-point) paintbrush to apply the LET around the more sensitive/hard-to-reach areas.. like in-between the individual pwm ICs

4. Tape the DIMM slots on the sides.. from the top of the slot to the bottom where it meets the motherboard, down the length of the slot. This will prevent the LET from getting underneath the DIMM slots. If you tape it, it will coat the board right up to the edge where the DIMM slot meets the PCB, then you can use kneaded eraser to seal the gap instead. If you get LET underneath the dimm slot, you wont be able to get it out, and may compromise RMA possibility.

5. Know that kneaded art eraser is a LOT EASIER to remove from tight spots than it is to remove a thin layer of LET. Keep this in mind!! Especially if you wanna try to RMA the board some day.

FINAL THOUGHTS

In summary, this method worked very well in terms of keeping my hardware safe. However, it's really easy (in my opinion) to get careless and ruin your RMA possibilities by getting LET in places it cant be removed from. Sin0822 has stated before in one of his guides that your coating of LET should be thick enough where you can't see the color of your PCB. I FULLY AGREE with that! I did not do this on the front of my board and learned the hard way.

Will I use this method again? Probably. I've heard some people just use this method on their graphics cards, so I may do the same. Next time I will be using the "silicone grease + paper towels" method. I hope to make another photo guide about it when I'm done, so look for that in the next week or so.

All-in-all this was a great learning experience in terms of general subzero cooling and OCing, insulation, getting used to how slow or fast temperatures change with the 2 different gemini bases, etc..
NOTE: in case you're curious, the benching session was not very successful in terms of OC. I only got the 2600k i was using up to 56x100. Not bad I guess, but since I've benched it at 55x100 on water in the past, I was really hoping for a lot more. I guess this is kind of typical though for the sandy bridge chips.
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post #2 of 22
Good read, and not to bad for you first insulation job. thumb.gif
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post #3 of 22
This is pretty much what I do except I do not use as much erasor, just enough to seal the processor in and outward about 1 inch. I also only do DICE and Phase cooling.

It is good to go the extra mile for LN2.

This is one of the best first time insulation attempts that I have seen! thumb.gif

Much better then my first attempts!

Subzero cooling attempts are not always successful. One thing I would stress to everyone going subzero is to study and learn the CPU/GPU and motherboard that they are going to bench very well before benching! Cold will not help if a motherboard has problems at a certain clock speed or dram setting.
Edited by Electroneng - 6/27/12 at 9:07am
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post #4 of 22
Great first guide.

One note: eraser does not insulate (well). Before LET, it was used as a substitute for vasoline or conformal spray. If you're using LET, you only need to use eraser where you don't/can't use LET. Use all that extra space for cell foam insulation!

Remember, the point of insulation is to keep the cold in (yes I know that doesn't work with real heat transfer... cold is just a lack of heat).
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post #5 of 22
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by NoGuru View Post

Good read, and not to bad for you first insulation job. thumb.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by Electroneng View Post

This is one of the best first time insulation attempts that I have seen! thumb.gif

thanks guys.
Quote:
Originally Posted by xxbassplayerxx View Post

If you're using LET, you only need to use eraser where you don't/can't use LET. Use all that extra space for cell foam insulation!

hm, good to know. so wherever there is a thick layer of LET there is no need for eraser?
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post #6 of 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by michaelrw View Post

thanks guys.
hm, good to know. so wherever there is a thick layer of LET there is no need for eraser?

I paint a thick coat of LET on the board, then after putting in the cpu just use eraser to seal it in (if no air can get in, no condensation). Another thing I do before covering the bottom of the board is use small bits of eraser to plug the little holes under the memory & pci-e slots, liquid tape & dragon skin tend to try to run down into them & it can be extremely difficult to get it out if it does.

This shows the way I do the eraser, the board is covered with dragon skin, pretty much the same as painted with LET. After the eraser I use a piece of shop towel, then the armaflex before mounting the pot.
DSC05432.jpg
    
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post #7 of 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by FtW 420 View Post

I paint a thick coat of LET on the board, then after putting in the cpu just use eraser to seal it in (if no air can get in, no condensation). Another thing I do before covering the bottom of the board is use small bits of eraser to plug the little holes under the memory & pci-e slots, liquid tape & dragon skin tend to try to run down into them & it can be extremely difficult to get it out if it does.
This shows the way I do the eraser, the board is covered with dragon skin, pretty much the same as painted with LET. After the eraser I use a piece of shop towel, then the armaflex before mounting the pot.
]
I do the exact same way as FTW. Eraser in holes, Dragon Skin, ect.
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post #8 of 22
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by FtW 420 View Post

I paint a thick coat of LET on the board, then after putting in the cpu just use eraser to seal it in (if no air can get in, no condensation). Another thing I do before covering the bottom of the board is use small bits of eraser to plug the little holes under the memory & pci-e slots, liquid tape & dragon skin tend to try to run down into them & it can be extremely difficult to get it out if it does.
This shows the way I do the eraser, the board is covered with dragon skin, pretty much the same as painted with LET. After the eraser I use a piece of shop towel, then the armaflex before mounting the pot.


Quote:
Originally Posted by NoGuru View Post

I do the exact same way as FTW. Eraser in holes, Dragon Skin, ect.

*very nice. yeah filling in the gaps of the pci and dimm slots is something i will do from now on. i got LET underneath them and theres no way ill get it all out now lol.

*when i search for dragon skin, the results i get are VERY expensive. is there some cheap alternative that can be picked up at home depot? how many bench runs do you do before changing it out?

*Also, im thinking of just using grease and leaving it on the board, but not sure if eventually the grease will become problematic to the components if exposed to grease indefinitely.
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post #9 of 22
I went into a local distributor here for the dragon skin, it was ~ $50 for the 2lb sample set, enough for several boards. It never has to be replaced once done, I just leave it on while running on air/water, then back under the pot again.
I did find that dragon skin wasn't as good for full pot benching, never had issues down to -125° or so, but when I tried AMD at full pot -196° the dragon skin was all cracked after I was done, the LET seems to hold up better at more extreme cold temps.
    
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post #10 of 22
I start to use LET to. Like FTW420 after i put the cpu in i take small amount off eraser and seal CPU area.

BTW michaelrw good job

See you guys on Saturday , i am happy my wife signed my waiver
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