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Sub configuration - 2 12" vs 1 12" - Page 4

post #31 of 115
First of all, I have to say, I haven't done anything car audio in about 7 years or so, so I may be out of date, but I used to compete in SPL and SQ. If I were you, I would use the SWS-1243D (dvc 4ohm), and run it at 2 Ohms like this
700
I cant find much any info on that amp, but they don't make em like that anymore. I would bet that amp will put out close to 200w at 2 Ohms and it will handle the load. And if it runs at 2 Ohms, run it like that till the amp blows. THEN buy a new amp.I would recommend using a sealed box still. If the box you have is 2 compartments, just use that for only 1 sub.
 
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post #32 of 115
If it were a mono sub amp then I would agree

but most stereo amps don't bridge to 2 ohm stable
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post #33 of 115
I may be wrong, but I think that's more so with the new ones. The old school one's like his should handle it. It's a trick we would use for competitions, not 24/7, but in this case, I would make an exception.
 
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post #34 of 115
Quote:
Originally Posted by mat459 View Post

I may be wrong, but I think that's more so with the new ones. The old school one's like his should handle it. It's a trick we would use for competitions, not 24/7, but in this case, I would make an exception.

His amp won't handle a 2 ohm load. I've had that amp before. It's 4 ohm bridged.

As such, use the SVC sub, bridge it to mono on your amp, and put it in a generic ported box if you want it to be louder (or keep it sealed). Note, the Type S's tend to sound the best sealed though.

I still fail to understand why you can't sell what you've got on CL and upgrade to something proper. But its your stuff. smile.gif
    
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post #35 of 115
Thread Starter 
Alright, thanks all! I'll probably still go ported. Know of any good guides for making boxes? I've only made PC speaker boxes and for those I just guesstimated. And why the svc over the dvc?
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post #36 of 115
Im sure you can google a box building guide. Crutchfield probably has one.

The svc has a lower RMS. It should be louder with lower power. Plus you can run it a 4 Ohms.
 
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post #37 of 115
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It isn't.. at least in the sealed box I have, it's noticeably quieter.
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post #38 of 115
it's only getting half of the power the other one is likely why wink.gif

to get a good idea of what it might sound like in a ported box by itself, disconnect all wires from the DVC and just wire up the SVC to the amp
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post #39 of 115
The reason why the SVC is simple. You have a generic 2 channel amp. It can handle 2x 2ohm loads (stereo) or 1x 4ohm load (bridged) to get full power output of it. As such, you'll want 4ohm bridged. So you want the SVC sub, as the DVC cannot run in 4ohm at the amp.

You'll get twice the power output to the SVC as you will the DVC, since the DVC will have to run 8ohm bridged or 2ohm stereo. Either way it'll result in 1/2 the power output that the amp is capable of.

For the box, its a Type S. Just stick it in a prefabbed slot ported box. Tuning it lower than a prefab (prefabs are usually around 40Hz tune), will just result in it being quieter. It's not a very powerful subwoofer, so you'll want a relatively high tune frequency. Plus you're only giving it what... 1/3 of its rated power, or 1/2 of it. So yeah, you'll want a high tune so you can gain efficiency that way.
    
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post #40 of 115
Well you CAN run the dvc sub at 4 ohms. Just put 1 channel to each voice coil, but you'll be getting maybe 50 watts total on a 300w rms sub. Bridged, at 4 ohms, you can put almost 100 watts to the 200w rms svc sub. It should be quite a bit louder.
 
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