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Sub configuration - 2 12" vs 1 12" - Page 9

post #81 of 115
Quote:
Originally Posted by pioneerisloud View Post

And no, you will need a bigger wiring kit with a bigger amplifier. 500w RMS @ 8ohm, that's going to draw the same amount of current as 1000w RMS @ 4ohm or 2000w RMS @ 2ohm (examples).

This is not true. 1000w will draw double the current and 2000w will draw 4 times the current (as at 500w). The ohms of the load doesn't come into play in this except to figure out how many watts the amp will be putting out to that load. Whether the amp is putting out 500w at 8 ohm or 500w at 2 ohm, the current draw on the supply side will be the same. (not counting small changes in effeciency of the amp)
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post #82 of 115
Thread Starter 
Is the port really only supposed to be an 1" deep (by 12" long)?
Quote:
Originally Posted by pioneerisloud View Post

For $130 just get the Audiopipe AP10001D. It's $142.95 here:
http://www.vminnovations.com/Product_5568/AUDIOPIPE-AP10001D-1000W-MONO-Power-Amplifier.html
It's 300w RMS @ 4ohm which will be perfect with your single voice coil sub, plus it'll have room to upgrade later on with 1ohm at 1000w RMS. There's better amps for not much more as well. Note you WILL need 4ga wiring at minimum, 1/0 preferred with 1/0 Big 3 upgraded.
Don't bother wasting $130 on a cheapo crap amp. The Audiopipe, while not the best out there, will do its rated power.
The problem is if I spend money on this set up I'd like to go with the better of the two subs I have and when/if I do upgrade it will be with something in the same price range as a Type S and at or less than 500W. Next summer I won't have time, likely having two jobs, and my PC will probably want upgrades (PC, not me tongue.gif).
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post #83 of 115
Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackVenom View Post

Is the port really only supposed to be an 1" deep (by 12" long)?
Quote:
Originally Posted by pioneerisloud View Post

For $130 just get the Audiopipe AP10001D. It's $142.95 here:
http://www.vminnovations.com/Product_5568/AUDIOPIPE-AP10001D-1000W-MONO-Power-Amplifier.html
It's 300w RMS @ 4ohm which will be perfect with your single voice coil sub, plus it'll have room to upgrade later on with 1ohm at 1000w RMS. There's better amps for not much more as well. Note you WILL need 4ga wiring at minimum, 1/0 preferred with 1/0 Big 3 upgraded.
Don't bother wasting $130 on a cheapo crap amp. The Audiopipe, while not the best out there, will do its rated power.
The problem is if I spend money on this set up I'd like to go with the better of the two subs I have and when/if I do upgrade it will be with something in the same price range as a Type S and at or less than 500W. Next summer I won't have time, likely having two jobs, and my PC will probably want upgrades (PC, not me tongue.gif).

You would be surprised what you can find in that price range dude. Sundown SA-8's aren't too terribly expensive, and just one of those will absolutely destroy that Type S 12 (it actually keeps up with the Type R 12's).
    
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post #84 of 115
Thread Starter 
Well, mehbeh I'll figure out a way to swing it - but that'll be next year.
I'm a bit stuck on the port/vent... and I think I screwed up a bit - cut the front 12x17.5 which leaves little room around (11.4" hole) but the shorted sides are between two slabs - not capped... which means the what I think the port side is now short 3/4" so.
368
The port goes below the sub hole, right? And it should be 12"x1" opening. right? And what about the part that seperates the port from the rest of the enclosure? Or should there be one? : / sorry for all the questions. The good news is I got a table saw so in the future I'll have less place to put my blames. tongue.gif

88

And the gluing has begun.. got 3 sides together, just waiting on freedom time to kick in and to figure out these port problems. biggrin.gif
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post #85 of 115
You've already screwed up by assembing the box man, that's why I was confused to begin with. The optimal box design (per that spec sheet) is a 12" x 1" slot port. It can go anywhere on the face of the box (usually), and it needs to be 17" deep. In other words, you're going to need a baffle along the backside as well (on the inside of the box) that's also 1" wide, to make that port 17" deep. The box is only what 13" deep internally or so (guesstimating). That leaves you 4" of port length you still need to have. That means you'll need to have the port turn on the inside and make an L shape.
    
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post #86 of 115
Slot ports are so confusing... Thats why I went circular port on mine. PVC ports are pretty easy. A single 2 in diameter x 7 inch deep PVC port would work just about right for you if you cant fix your current slot port situation. Rough figures right here, not sure of the absolute frequency but I'd guess around 35 hz with a 2x7 PVC port

If all else fails, aero port kits are like $10 on amazon. I ordered one a few weeks back, just haven't put it in yet.

Oh, and in the $200 and below range... Type R 12, DC Level 2/3 12, Sundown SA-8 -10 or -12, Fi SSD 10 (like mine) if you can push to like $220. You'd need at least a 750w amp to drive it, though. It loves power thumb.gif
Edited by boom50cal - 7/15/12 at 9:37pm
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post #87 of 115
Thread Starter 
Well... I guess this is where being eager and impatient doesn't pay off. rolleyes.gif I could start over I guess... and may; I'd like to finish this box, though. Maybe I should just leave it sealed (max recommended volume for sealed is 1.5, this is 1.56)... or continue as planned and make that port?
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post #88 of 115
Cut the hole and run it sealed, if it doesn't sound like you want it cut a hole and PVC or aero port that sucker.
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post #89 of 115
Thread Starter 
Aye, I shall do that. Hope to have it ready tomorrow. Will have to go back to seal it later, though. I'm reading up on box building... probably should have done that in the first place. rolleyes.gif I'll probably use this box in my room and try again with a better design.

EDIT: Learned something new today... MEASURE EVERYTHING! lol... So I cut the hole 11.4 ish as per what I thought the manual said... 11" is what I should have. Oh well biggrin.gif

EDIT2: Got the box mostly together. It's sitting in the garage and the glue is drying. Still have yet to glue the face on (temp screwed on) but took it for a test drive... it sounds a lot better, however the sub is getting more juice being alone - I'm going to borrow a 300w mono block to test it out wed. I plan on building a new box after some research. I do have one question, though; being that I cut the hole ~.25-.50" too big, would simply using a .25" piece of oak be sufficient to seal the leaks around the sub? The .25" piece would be in addition to the .76" mdf. The hole isn't so big I can't screw the sub in, btw... but it doesn't seal.
Edited by BlackVenom - 7/16/12 at 10:23pm
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post #90 of 115
Case in point of craigslist being your friend.

I just picked up two Boston Pro Series 10.5lf subs today for $100 for the pair tongue.gif

wheee.gif
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