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[Official] Bitfenix Prodigy & Phenom Owner's Club - Page 368

post #3671 of 11741
Quote:
Originally Posted by audioholic View Post

Thanks guys. Once the motherboard comes in I can get the correct cutout for the backplate. I plan on making the logo bigger next time around biggrin.gif Like I said before this is just a practice piece to see about measurements and that sort of thing. I doubt I will even use those cutouts for power. I know the logo is something that will not be seen but its just the fact that I would know its there thumb.gif

Why not replace the motherboard tray with your own? You can then add the logo that will be seen on the side wink.gif
post #3672 of 11741
Quote:
Originally Posted by SonofJor-El View Post

Why not replace the motherboard tray with your own? You can then add the logo that will be seen on the side wink.gif
I never thought of that. I will get some ideas and see how it all works out. I know it has been tried in the past. thumb.gif
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post #3673 of 11741
New thought for radiator layout, let's hear some opinions.
1) Front mounted 45mm 240 radiator
2) Rear mounted 140mm radiator (either 30/45mm thickness. Externally mounted fan would make the 45mm easy, but internally it may come out to much over the motherboard, obstructing the CPU block)
3) INSTEAD OF 2: top mounted (towards the rear) 45mm 120 rad.

Someone much smarter than me please let me know if a 30mm thick rad at 140mm would dissipate heat better/worse than a 45mm 120 rad. Given that the radiator is the exact same except for size, is it simply a matter of doing 120x120x45 vs 140x140x30 to find out the potential volume available for fins? My maths is terribad, but logically this calculation makes sense to me.
    
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post #3674 of 11741
Quote:
Originally Posted by RandomHer0 View Post

New thought for radiator layout, let's hear some opinions.
1) Front mounted 45mm 240 radiator
2) Rear mounted 140mm radiator (either 30/45mm thickness. Externally mounted fan would make the 45mm easy, but internally it may come out to much over the motherboard, obstructing the CPU block)
3) INSTEAD OF 2: top mounted (towards the rear) 45mm 120 rad.

I'm also working out watercooling in my prodigy ...

My current plan is a 120/140mm where the HDD bays were (Cutting out a square there), 240mm up top, 140mm fan rear with 140mm radiator external and 230mm fan up front.

Not many people will answer a question in a thread this busy because it's quite an amount of research. Rather, browse through the SFF sub-forum for watercooled prodigy builds and see what fits where smile.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by RandomHer0 View Post

Someone much smarter than me please let me know if a 30mm thick rad at 140mm would dissipate heat better/worse than a 45mm 120 rad. Given that the radiator is the exact same except for size, is it simply a matter of doing 120x120x45 vs 140x140x30 to find out the potential volume available for fins? My maths is terribad, but logically this calculation makes sense to me.

It's also relative to the FPI of the radiator, and the amount of air the fan will push (Since a 140mm fan can push more air than a 120mm at similar dBa levels).
Edited by dmanstasiu - 1/1/13 at 10:58am
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post #3675 of 11741
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmanstasiu View Post

I'm also working out watercooling in my prodigy ...
My current plan is a 120/140mm where the HDD bays were (Cutting out a square there), 240mm up top, 140mm fan rear with 140mm radiator external and 230mm fan up front.
Not many people will answer a question in a thread this busy because it's quite an amount of research. Rather, browse through the SFF sub-forum for watercooled prodigy builds and see what fits where smile.gif
It's also relative to the FPI of the radiator, and the amount of air the fan will push (Since a 140mm fan can push more air than a 120mm at similar dBa levels).

Thanks smile.gif
Was aware of the FPI which is why I mentioned the rads being identical, didn't take the fans into consideration though (amateur hour!!).

Currently flicking through the whole Prodigy owners club thread, lots of useful stuff for sure.
I think the front 240 will be good as I can mount my pump/res to it using a bracket. Will need to look more thoroughly to see pics of 120/140 rads at the top/back to make a decision there.
    
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post #3676 of 11741
Any suggestions for a relatively cheap CPU cooler that will work with the Asus z77-i? Preferably under $40, doesn't have to be anything spectacular, just not stock cooler. I plan on going water some time in the near future but need something to hold me over until then. Unfortunately it looks like my CM 212+ will not fit. mad.gif
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post #3677 of 11741
Quote:
Originally Posted by blazed_1 View Post

Any suggestions for a relatively cheap CPU cooler that will work with the Asus z77-i? Preferably under $40, doesn't have to be anything spectacular, just not stock cooler. I plan on going water some time in the near future but need something to hold me over until then. Unfortunately it looks like my CM 212+ will not fit. mad.gif

you can sideways mount the 212 with a single fan it it will work. Wont run as well as it could, but probably will still be better than most low profile coolers.

alternatively a 92mm tower should fit, like the noctua nh-u9b

EDIT: I just realized i was thinking of the wrong board. the Z77 i should fit just about any CPU cooler imaginable. why do you not think the 212 would fit?

http://www.google.co.nz/imgres?um=1&hl=en&sa=N&tbo=d&biw=1920&bih=979&tbm=isch&tbnid=7LaUa4ekWjakTM:&imgrefurl=http://legacy.tonymacx86.com/viewtopic.php%3Ff%3D277%26t%3D54939&docid=XM3D4-IXjqTynM&imgurl=http://www.tonymacx86.com/screenshots/normal_ASUS-P8Z77-I-Deluxe_09.jpeg&w=600&h=400&ei=jGzjUJWBCYaiigfli4HIDg&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=126&vpy=500&dur=2933&hovh=183&hovw=275&tx=126&ty=98&sig=107195764692595955192&page=2&tbnh=136&tbnw=210&start=59&ndsp=68&ved=1t:429,r:60,s:0,i:278

pretty much the best thing this board has going for it is the excellent socket placement that should allow almost any air cooler.
Edited by welshmouse - 1/1/13 at 3:11pm
post #3678 of 11741
Quote:
Originally Posted by Teh Rav3n View Post

While the off the shelf solutions may be fine in this particular application, there is a misconception that needs correcting on the whole. Allow me to clear this up a bit. thumb.gif
I apologize if this comes over a little harsh, it's not directed towards you, but at the myriad number of other people's screw ups that I've repaired on their vehicles over the years. That, and being well over the argument that most formulate as to why they did it, and messed it up.
I'm afraid you are complete wrong on the difference between professional automotive products designed for plastics. smile.gif It's not a marketing ploy, except maybe in the off the shelf junk products available at your local parts house like Autozone & Pepboys. No offense intended, but they only carry crappy quality products. Try FinishMasters, or another large reputable professional supply house instead. As a way of comparison: Try spraying an off the shelf product on your properly prepped urethane front bumper cover, and watch how quickly it spiderwebs & flakes off. biggrin.gif
My guess is that you have never worked with Spies Hecker, DuPont, BASF, House of Kolor, and such, in a professional environment. I have, and for many a year. A bit of background on the chemistry of modern base/clear systems: They are almost always water based with a low solvent urethane, and a binding agent of one of several different types (chemical variations of Cyanide usually, which is why they *OSHA & other regulating bodies* enforce the massive emphasis on employee safety to an almost obtuse degree). Not oil based.
Although there are still oil based automotive paints available, they are the low end garbage, usually found in a spray can. More so, rarely does anyone use them "professionally" at all. Well, Maaco & SprayGlow on their $299 "specials". But if you want to pay someone to ruin your cars finish...there you go. tongue.gif There's a distinct reason quality refinishing establishments charge $3k or more over those "companies".
Base/clear systems being plastic based themselves, they tend to bond very well to other plastics, and are capable of flexing somewhat. Still, an adhesion promoter & flex agent is necessary where larger amounts of flex is a concern. Honestly, there simply is no comparison to Rust-o-leum or Krylon I'm afraid. They aren't in the same league, nor hardly in the same sport. Professional auto finish products will last decades in a harsh environment if applied correctly, & the other off the shelf products will fail in short order no matter what else you do.
Although, I'll take your word on the Krylon/Rust-o-leum differences, as I have no experience with them. I'd figure that either would be fine in an application such as his, but thanks for the advice on them. wink.gif

Well, of course there are expensive professional grade products--most people are not going to get a professional glossy mirror like finish on their cases: it's generally implied that "cheap" spray cans will be used. Case in point, Krylon fusion for plastics was brought up. In that category of paints, there's pretty much no difference between oil-based paint from automotive stores and general hardware stored. Rust-Oleum has many cans of similar stuff, some labelled automotive and some not - all should do fine.

As for Krylon and DupliColor, they are owned by Sherwin Williams, and their paints are similar. I've personally tried Krylon, Rust-Oleum, and DupliColor spray paints, and Rust-Oleum has given me better coverage and finish. A few people I've talked to were also not fans of Krylon / DupliColor. And on the note of the later--I highly advise against DC Exact Match small sppray cans: uneven finish, needs lots of layers for full coverage, and runs out before you can get a decent amount of surface area coated.

I was actually very curious about diluting Rust-Oleum with mineral spirits and trying a paint roller method, but in the end decided it was too long of a project.
   
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post #3679 of 11741
Quote:
Originally Posted by welshmouse View Post

you can sideways mount the 212 with a single fan it it will work. Wont run as well as it could, but probably will still be better than most low profile coolers.
alternatively a 92mm tower should fit, like the noctua nh-u9b
EDIT: I just realized i was thinking of the wrong board. the Z77 i should fit just about any CPU cooler imaginable. why do you not think the 212 would fit?

pretty much the best thing this board has going for it is the excellent socket placement that should allow almost any air cooler.
Quote:
Originally Posted by phillyd View Post

A few air coolers have backplates that interfere with items on common ITX motherboards.
The Hyper 212+ and Evo have issues with motherboards including the Asus P8z77-I Deluxe. [A full analysis is needed]

If I can get it to fit though without cutting anything that would be great. smile.gif
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post #3680 of 11741
Quote:
Originally Posted by blazed_1 View Post

If I can get it to fit though without cutting anything that would be great. smile.gif

Ah so the backplate interferes with something? You could try raising it with some plastic or paper washers?
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