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post #3681 of 11743
Im after some new RAM

The Criteria is:
Black PCB
No stupid heatsink (i like the naked PCB look)
2x 8GB sticks

What should i go for?
    
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post #3682 of 11743
Quote:
Originally Posted by nb14 View Post

Im after some new RAM
The Criteria is:
Black PCB
No stupid heatsink (i like the naked PCB look)
2x 8GB sticks
What should i go for?

Samsung 1.35v low-profile RAM. Comes in the 8GB DIMM variety smile.gif
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post #3683 of 11743
Quote:
Originally Posted by welshmouse View Post

Ah so the backplate interferes with something? You could try raising it with some plastic or paper washers?

since the board will be laying flat, wouldnt it be possible to just attach the heat sink without the back plate? the CM back plate a bit ridiculous. maybe some 1 or 2mm rubber washers for added protection?
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post #3684 of 11743
Quote:
Originally Posted by nb14 View Post

Im after some new RAM
The Criteria is:
Black PCB
No stupid heatsink (i like the naked PCB look)
2x 8GB sticks
What should i go for?

THIS

OCs like a CHAMP thumb.gif
Vader
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post #3685 of 11743
Quote:
Originally Posted by the petes View Post

THIS
OCs like a CHAMP thumb.gif

He needs 2x8GB, not 2x4GB. Read smile.gif
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post #3686 of 11743
Hi and Happy New Year to all.

I got a little problem with the case.

Sometimes when I touch the case it gives me a little shock.
One time when that happened it caused BSOD.

I don't exactly know what is causing it.

Is it possible that my PSU is causing it, because it´s been making quiet high pitch buzzing sound?
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post #3687 of 11743
Quote:
Originally Posted by InfreQ View Post

Hi and Happy New Year to all.
I got a little problem with the case.
Sometimes when I touch the case it gives me a little shock.
One time when that happened it caused BSOD.
I don't exactly know what is causing it.
Is it possible that my PSU is causing it, because it´s been making quiet high pitch buzzing sound?

Something isn't grounded properly. Check the motherboard stand-offs, try removing the front panel connectors from the case
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post #3688 of 11743
Quote:
Originally Posted by ElevenEleven View Post

Well, of course there are expensive professional grade products--most people are not going to get a professional glossy mirror like finish on their cases: it's generally implied that "cheap" spray cans will be used. Case in point, Krylon fusion for plastics was brought up. In that category of paints, there's pretty much no difference between oil-based paint from automotive stores and general hardware stored. Rust-Oleum has many cans of similar stuff, some labelled automotive and some not - all should do fine.
As for Krylon and DupliColor, they are owned by Sherwin Williams, and their paints are similar. I've personally tried Krylon, Rust-Oleum, and DupliColor spray paints, and Rust-Oleum has given me better coverage and finish. A few people I've talked to were also not fans of Krylon / DupliColor. And on the note of the later--I highly advise against DC Exact Match small sppray cans: uneven finish, needs lots of layers for full coverage, and runs out before you can get a decent amount of surface area coated.
I was actually very curious about diluting Rust-Oleum with mineral spirits and trying a paint roller method, but in the end decided it was too long of a project.

The gross generalization that I quoted is what I took issue with. Categorizing "automotive" paint's as having "no difference" is a blanket statement that doesn't apply to actual automotive paint systems. Just a little more clarity on your part, concerning which type you were speaking of, would've avoided any confusion. smile.gif Not everyone thinks in terms of rattle cans wink.gif

Just to let you know, mineral spirits & reducer works perfectly for enamel bases like Rust-o-leum uses. If you do get around to that idea & have access to an air compressor, a cheap $20 gravity feed jamb (detail) gun will work fine for spraying it too. Much better than brushing or using a roller to apply it, and far more consistent than any rattle can. thumb.gif

Sherwin makes great paint for buildings and ships, but even their top of the line automotive ATX & AWX refinish base/clear systems suck. I actually dislike them worse than PPG, and PPG is just garbage, in all of their product lines.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dmanstasiu View Post

Something isn't grounded properly. Check the motherboard stand-offs, try removing the front panel connectors from the case

This, definitely. smile.gif
Edited by Teh Rav3n - 1/1/13 at 6:04pm
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post #3689 of 11743
Quote:
Originally Posted by welshmouse View Post

Ah so the backplate interferes with something? You could try raising it with some plastic or paper washers?

Yeah, after looking at a few pics the 212 backplate sits on top of a few components. After doing a bit more reading I'm thinking of changing it up and go with the cheaper Asrock mobo and grab something like the h80i.
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post #3690 of 11743
Quote:
Originally Posted by nb14 View Post

Im after some new RAM
The Criteria is:
Black PCB
No stupid heatsink (i like the naked PCB look)
2x 8GB sticks
What should i go for?

I know you said you don't want heatspreaders, but I had the same wish as you a while ago, when I was looking to up my RAM from 8 GB (2 x Samsung 30nm RAM sticks ) to 16GB with only 2 modules, but in the end I went with this RAM (which, admittedly, was only $90 at the time):

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231571

Running it at 2133MHz 9-10-11-28-1T at 1.55V. Been solid since I got it - very happy with it, and it does look nice and not over the top. This RAM does get quite hot though (touching the heatspreaders), compared to my Samsung RAM which ran very very cool even overclocked.
   
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