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[Official] MSI GTX 680 Lightning Owners Club - Page 228

post #2271 of 6888
Quote:
Originally Posted by cowie View Post

You sure it was the voltage cuasing the red screen?
In my testing it was the cold every time not so much the voltage that lead to it.
1.55v no issues 1.60v no issues but under -40c or so red screen any colder then that cbb, really sucks in dx9 benches since its in 2d or low power 3d alot more then the newer dx10 or dx11 benches so its harder to get heat.
For 3d11 i keep it warmish(-10 /-20c) till it gets passed gt1 then you can bring the pot down without the 2d-lp3d cycling more easy.
After the msi contest going on there will be mods and more info out for this card i am sure wink.gif
you on ln2 or dice?
besides redscreen how was it reacting for you when cold? are you using a heat gun on vrm/core area?

It could have been the voltage + cold. I have had it colder without redscreen, first time I froze pulled it down to -60 pretty fast without extra voltage & got a couple benches in before it bugged after 10 minutes or so.
This was on ln2 & I didn't use any heat. The main cold issue was the driver freaking out when it changes p states colder than -45 or so, it gets to desktop fine when colder but as soon as the voltage drops to 2d, nightmare...,
Quote:
Originally Posted by TURN & BURN View Post

Hey FTW420 Nice job I havent tried the 680 yet but the 7970's love the cold no issues going full pots LN2
Great work hope you can get more from your other card!!

I haven't frozen the 7970 lightning yet, my reference 7970 did pretty well (3d11 p14360), trying to catch up to that score with the 680L now. It didn't like full pot, but was happy with -120° at least. My other 680L did a fair bit better on air/water, hoping it does better cold as well.
    
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post #2272 of 6888
Changing the TIM- hello, guys, anybody got the experience with the changing of the TIM on Lightning ?
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post #2273 of 6888
Yes it's very simple, remove the 4 screws around the GPU and remove the heatsink.
post #2274 of 6888
Quote:
Originally Posted by Menthol View Post

Yes it's very simple, remove the 4 screws around the GPU and remove the heatsink.

no need to remove the gpu reactor ?
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post #2275 of 6888
Quote:
Originally Posted by famich View Post

no need to remove the gpu reactor ?

Just remove the 4 screws ... those are the only thing keeping the heatsink connected to the card smile.gif
    
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post #2276 of 6888
Quote:
Originally Posted by supermi View Post

Just remove the 4 screws ... those are the only thing keeping the heatsink connected to the card smile.gif

Don't forget to disconnect the fan cable too, don't yank on it by accident =P
    
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post #2277 of 6888
Ok, thanks for the advice !thumb.gif

Changed the TIM, had a very chepo looking grey stuff, cleaned everything , I ve put AC MX4 stuff, no need even to detach the fan !

I ll see about that WC block, athough I ve not seen its pics and the layout anywhere..smile.gif
Edited by famich - 8/20/12 at 10:43am
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post #2278 of 6888
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scorpion667 View Post

Don't forget to disconnect the fan cable too, don't yank on it by accident =P

good catch smile.gifthumb.gif
    
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post #2279 of 6888
Quote:
Originally Posted by famich View Post

Changing the TIM- hello, guys, anybody got the experience with the changing of the TIM on Lightning ?

Did it work out for you? how are the temps now?

I am going to buy Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra tomorrow or the MX4 I heard Liquid Ultra is better, but it comes with a warning don't use it on aluminium they say, is the surface aluminium that, the part that makes contact with GPU? anyway would love to hear you're thoughts I may buy MX4 anyway if its significant to suppose the standard tim.
Edited by phazers - 8/20/12 at 1:04pm
post #2280 of 6888
Hi guys.

Just wanted to share with you the BIOS compilation I've made through the different versions that are available till today.

MSiGTX680LightingBIOS.zip 333k .zip file

100/110 are stock versions, "a" versions introduced fan reduction on startup and 111 is the famous 3A version. Altough some of them share there id number (xx.xx.xx.xx.xx), they have not the same internal structure nor date nor release version number (xxx). Personaly I'm using 101a on standard BIOS and 111 on LN2 (mine came with 101/110 factory BIOS).

Hope it helps someone and maybe it can be added to first post.

Kindest Regards!
Edited by elbubi - 8/20/12 at 2:48pm
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