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[Official] MSI GTX 680 Lightning Owners Club - Page 573

post #5721 of 7827
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kimir View Post

Lightnings under water, Lightnings under water woohoo!! Snorkle.gif

well.. look at my rig biggrin.gif
Corsair H100i and 680 watered

runs with 4500 on CPU and 1350 on 680


http://www.sysprofile.de/id86892
post #5722 of 7827
Quote:
Originally Posted by wiredg View Post

I wonder if anyone can offer advice. I received a new 680-L about ten days ago. Using the factory default clock and voltage settings, it would crash during games. I got it stable by underclocking the core by about 100 MHz. I then switched to LN2, again using factory defaults, and it crashed during the video assessment part of the WinSat evaluation! I re-flashed LN2 with 80.04.28.00.3A, and it became stable (in games) at factory defaults. I have not run any synthetics yet. But the core clock will not take even a 20 MHz OC, no matter what I do with voltages. (I'm using AB 2.3.1. with the profile edit to make the sliders actually work.) I ran TDP up to 300%, increased core voltage offset to 100, played with aux/PLL voltage (up and down), and nothing worked. I'm just glad it's stable without underclocking now. It hits 1202 MHz under load, and 1.2090v (according to AB, so whatever real-world voltage that corresponds to), and never draws more than 40% TDP. Temps stay below 64C under load. Interestingly, it will take a nice mem OC: +700 works just fine on the re-flashed LN2 (have not yet tried mem OC on standard BIOS).

The system has been rock solid for a year. I have an i7-3930K OC'd moderately to 4.4 GHz, running on only 1.1300v VCore even with HT enabled. (I hate fan noise, so I never OC aggressively.) I have 16 GB DDR3-1600 running at 1860 MHz with timings of 1t-12-12-12-24-120-12 (tight as stock for 1600 MHz on this RAM) at only 1.5000v. And my old GTX 560-Ti (OEM) ran at 900 core and 2400 mem stable as can be with only 1.0500v. So the system's 875w PSU is hardly a PoS, and should easily power this card.

I have tried toggling PhysX between the CPU and GPU (the 3930K with HT enabled can handle parallel tasks well enough to do PhysX quite nicely); toggling CUDA processing on and off; toggling PCIe gen-3 support on and off in system BIOS, and using/not using the nVidia gen-3 support patch; clean-installing various nVidia drivers (306.97 whql and 313.96 beta work best for me); enabling/disabling HT in system BIOS; moving the card to a different slot; toggling HPET off and on; re-flashing the system BIOS with the new card installed; and re-installing Intel's chipset drivers with the new card installed. I went so far as to re-install Windows 7 with the new card installed (using the 'upgrade' option, not a clean install -- the card isn't worth *that* much bother).

Have I missed anything? Should I return this thing? I was so happy and excited when I ordered it, and now I am truly disappointed and feel ripped off. MSI markets it as an enthusiast's card, and it won't run properly at its default settings.

RMA it. Definitely. Get another stab at the lottery thumb.gif

If it's crashing on the stock clocks, then I would return it. That's a completely valid reason, and since it's the worst overclocker that we've ever seen, you're actually lucky it's crashing on the stock clocks, because now you have a valid reason to return it. You didn't spend $500+ to have a card you have to downclock. Take the time to RMA and you'll get a better one back, maybe even a really good one.
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post #5723 of 7827
If it wont run at default settings, and you are sure its not any other component causing the issue, RMA it. You don't pay top dollar to have the card not perform as advertised.
post #5724 of 7827
I'm grateful for all the quick replies. I suppose I will stick with the 680L, despite my underwhelming first impression. Hundreds of users and fans can't be wrong smile.gif A minor hassle for me is that the i7 K and X series don't have on-board video, and I've already given my older card to a young relative for whom it's a bit of an upgrade. So I'll have to order a replacement and wait for it to arrive before sending the first one back for a refund.

I find it hard to believe that MSI allowed this GPU to leave the plant on a Lightning. It should have gone into a lower-spec model. I imagine that it passed whatever synthetic tests they have, with absolutely no OC headroom whatsoever, and they thought that was good enough for a Lightning. But we all know that games can at times throw so much at one's system, they can be a harder test (although the torture is not sustained as in a synthetic), so headroom is essential.

I'll report back when the new card arrives and I have a chance to evaluate it. Thanks again.
post #5725 of 7827
Well I tried the art money hack last night. First tried out +100 which was 1.31v I believe and then 1.41v which is +200. Got massive heat gains. I was running at about 1450mhz but and stable until my temps hit 78c and it throttled back to 1202mhz.

At one point I was also getting worse performance when I was overclock so I backed it down to what my max stable was before the art money hack which is 1398mhz and +400 on the mem. That gives me like a score of 1422 maxed out in heaven.
post #5726 of 7827
Quote:
Originally Posted by wiredg View Post

I'm grateful for all the quick replies. I suppose I will stick with the 680L, despite my underwhelming first impression. Hundreds of users and fans can't be wrong smile.gif A minor hassle for me is that the i7 K and X series don't have on-board video, and I've already given my older card to a young relative for whom it's a bit of an upgrade. So I'll have to order a replacement and wait for it to arrive before sending the first one back for a refund.

I find it hard to believe that MSI allowed this GPU to leave the plant on a Lightning. It should have gone into a lower-spec model. I imagine that it passed whatever synthetic tests they have, with absolutely no OC headroom whatsoever, and they thought that was good enough for a Lightning. But we all know that games can at times throw so much at one's system, they can be a harder test (although the torture is not sustained as in a synthetic), so headroom is essential.

I'll report back when the new card arrives and I have a chance to evaluate it. Thanks again.

It's definitely an amazing card, you were just extremely unlucky. Well, not as unlucky as you could've been if it ran fine on the stock clocks but wouldn't take a 20mhz OC. MSI only tests for 1202mhz, so they have no knowledge of a card that overclocks to 1350mhz on the stock voltage any more than they know about one that won't even take 20mhz. It's all the luck of the draw unfortunately. But it's good that yours crashes, that means you can RMA and get a better one. Not being able to overclock 20mhz isn't a valid RMA reason unfortunately, but crashing on the stock settings is. You'll be glad you waited and got a new one.

Quote:
Originally Posted by damstr View Post

Well I tried the art money hack last night. First tried out +100 which was 1.31v I believe and then 1.41v which is +200. Got massive heat gains. I was running at about 1450mhz but and stable until my temps hit 78c and it throttled back to 1202mhz.

At one point I was also getting worse performance when I was overclock so I backed it down to what my max stable was before the art money hack which is 1398mhz and +400 on the mem. That gives me like a score of 1422 maxed out in heaven.

+200mv? Yeah that's going a little high I would think. Unless it's winter by you or something where you can keep temps low enough.

You're not using the LN2 BIOS for benching? +100mv should've gotten you to 1.36v (actual, not according to Afterburner). Maybe you were getting a worse score because you were throttling because of the Power and temperature limits?

Edit: Yeah I just noticed you said you were throttling. Yeah use the 3A LN2 BIOS and you'll have some better luck. Just remember it's about 50mv higher at any given offset than the non-LN2 BIOS. So I wouldn't go jumping right into +200mv without being sure about temps.
Edited by dph314 - 2/9/13 at 8:32am
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post #5727 of 7827
mmmmmmmm sexy lighting tongue.gif

Will show you temps in a bit, got a 480mm RAD all to it self biggrin.gif

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post #5728 of 7827
Quote:
Originally Posted by driftingforlife View Post

mmmmmmmm sexy lighting tongue.gif

Will show you temps in a bit, got a 480mm RAD all to it self biggrin.gif


WOW! A 480 just for the Card. . .Sounds just like i had in mind. NICE!
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post #5729 of 7827
Quote:
Originally Posted by dph314 View Post

+200mv? Yeah that's going a little high I would think. Unless it's winter by you or something where you can keep temps low enough.

You're not using the LN2 BIOS for benching? +100mv should've gotten you to 1.36v (actual, not according to Afterburner). Maybe you were getting a worse score because you were throttling because of the Power and temperature limits?

Edit: Yeah I just noticed you said you were throttling. Yeah use the 3A LN2 BIOS and you'll have some better luck. Just remember it's about 50mv higher at any given offset than the non-LN2 BIOS. So I wouldn't go jumping right into +200mv without being sure about temps.
No I was on the LN2 bios. I haven't run the stock bios since I got the card except on the first start up.

I guess I was at 1.36v. I was reading from the sensor off GPU-Z for the voltage unless that's wrong as well. I'm on afterburner 2.2.3 and it doesn't show voltage. Actually now that I think about it I don't remember seeing it ever change from 1.21v from GPU-Z.

Would you have to start up art money every time you wanted that extra voltage or does it do it automatically after you set it the first time?

I'm not even going to worry about it honestly. That max I could get is maybe 50mhz more and I'm already sitting happy at 1400mhz @ the max stock LN2 bios voltage. haha
post #5730 of 7827
That's awesome if you can get 1400mhz without having to use Art Money. Yeah it's only good for benching anyways, so, even if you could set it up to work on start-up, I don't think you'd want to.

Yeah GPU-Z as well as Afterburner are both wrong when it comes to voltage. You just have to do the math yourself. 1.26v is the stock voltage on the 3A, so add the offset to figure out the voltage smile.gif

@drifting- Awesome. Can't wait to see what you can hit with that 480 on it thumb.gif
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