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# Pipe bending 101 - Page 128

Quote:
Originally Posted by PillarOfAutumn

Quick question! I was hoping some of you titans of watercooling can answer this for me!

Picture time:

Let's say that A is the pump and that B is the radiator. The distance from inside the fitting in A to right above B on the X axis is 225mm and the distance from inside of fitting B to right where A is 50mm (just look at the picture). The bend radius, let say, is 25mm as measured by B-Neg's first post on this thread.

With all these measurements, let's say further that I have the ability of the Roman goddess Mensa (goddess of measurement ), and that I can measure everything to the exact 0.1mm and that there will be no wastage of material. With all that being said, what length of tubing should I cut?

(My geomatery isn't exactly the strongest)

Is it as simple as 225+50mm? idk why, but the bend and it not being an abrupt 90 degrees is whats confusing me. If this is the case, and we cut a 275mm length tubing, then we need to put the bend's starting point at the 200mm mark (if measuring from A to B), right?

Thinking too hard about it : )

hypotheticaly, if your bender had a radius of 25mm then yes you would place the 0 mark at 200mm and then bend your 90*

In b-negatives tutorial, notice he measures, marks, bends, and then cuts. He also works with pipe in his job I believe.

I do not work with pipe, and am no authority, but most if not all benders have the radius stamped on them, and if you have never bent pipe before, you will want to have scrap to practice with.

In practical application, it's a lot easier to remove a mm or two from the length, than to come up short.
Edited by housefly88 - 9/13/13 at 2:59pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by housefly88

Quote:
Originally Posted by PillarOfAutumn

Quick question! I was hoping some of you titans of watercooling can answer this for me!

Picture time:

Let's say that A is the pump and that B is the radiator. The distance from inside the fitting in A to right above B on the X axis is 225mm and the distance from inside of fitting B to right where A is 50mm (just look at the picture). The bend radius, let say, is 25mm as measured by B-Neg's first post on this thread.

With all these measurements, let's say further that I have the ability of the Roman goddess Mensa (goddess of measurement ), and that I can measure everything to the exact 0.1mm and that there will be no wastage of material. With all that being said, what length of tubing should I cut?

(My geomatery isn't exactly the strongest)

Is it as simple as 225+50mm? idk why, but the bend and it not being an abrupt 90 degrees is whats confusing me. If this is the case, and we cut a 275mm length tubing, then we need to put the bend's starting point at the 200mm mark (if measuring from A to B), right?

Thinking too hard about it : )

hypotheticaly, if your bender had a radius of 25mm then yes you would place the 0 mark at 200mm and then bend your 90*

In b-negatives tutorial, notice he measures, marks, bends, and then cuts. He also works with pipe in his job I believe.

I do not work with pipe, and am no authority, but most if not all benders have the radius stamped on them, and if you have never bent pipe before, you will want to have scrap to practice with.

In practical application, it's a lot easier to remove a mm or two from the length, than to come up short.

Pretty much this,make a bend then cut to suit,you cant bend an exact length with any accuracy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by housefly88

Thinking too hard about it : )

hypotheticaly, if your bender had a radius of 25mm then yes you would place the 0 mark at 200mm and then bend your 90*

In b-negatives tutorial, notice he measures, marks, bends, and then cuts. He also works with pipe in his job I believe.

I do not work with pipe, and am no authority, but most if not all benders have the radius stamped on them, and if you have never bent pipe before, you will want to have scrap to practice with.

In practical application, it's a lot easier to remove a mm or two from the length, than to come up short.

Quote:
Originally Posted by B NEGATIVE

Pretty much this,make a bend then cut to suit,you cant bend an exact length with any accuracy

Okay, awesome! Thanks!

So I guess it needs to go like this:
1- Measure where to make the bend
2- Make the bend
3- Hold the copper pipe over to where it needs to insert. Measure it and cut about 5mm extra.
4- Cut again for the final size

I guess after doing a couple of cuts, I would be able to make the appropriate cuts without needing to leave 5mm extra?

The only reason I ask is because I have very little space to work with at the bottom of my case. Because one of the pipes (which is about 1m in length) is going to have about .75 meters sticking out after the bend. and it would be very difficult to make the measurement here.
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Quick question. Whats the OD for the barbs of the fittings in OP?
I mean the part that is screwed in the block/rad/whatever.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EPiiKK

Quick question. Whats the OD for the barbs of the fittings in OP?
I mean the part that is screwed in the block/rad/whatever.

Here's an update to my venture into copper tube bending. I'm building a new system with a Rampage IV extreme motherboard, a i7-4930K CPU (Ivy Bridge-E) in a Case Labs TH10 case. I'm pretty happy with the results so far.

Looks good

I know how difficult trying to route pipe, on a rive can be with the dual board blocks.
Thanks! Actually, routing the tubes on the motherboard was the easiest part. The hardest tubes were the ones spanning the case (the photo doesn't show the tubing on the top radiators) since it was a lot more difficult to get accurate measurements.
Finished the water loop this evening. Fixed a couple of leaks. The water is circulating. Time to start wiring it all up.

:-)

Just put a 2nd 7990 in the loop so I have to redo the piping again...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XukF5m8Ff-Q this is what they are pushing now .... 5 Asus VG248QE debezeled :-)
Edited by Elmy - 9/18/13 at 8:18am
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