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Pipe bending 101 - Page 142

post #1411 of 2175
Quote:
Originally Posted by LaBestiaHumana View Post

Couldn't find a pipe bender for 1/2 copper tube. Can someone recommend one from an online retailer? thanks

I have this one. I would recommend it to anyone.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003UL1UTG/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
post #1412 of 2175
Quote:
Originally Posted by kgtuning View Post

I have this one. I would recommend it to anyone.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003UL1UTG/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks! +rep thumb.gif
post #1413 of 2175
Hey, guys. I'm looking for some help. I'm having some problems. All my 6 pipes are in place. I filled my reservoir and let the water passively fill the loop as much as possible. Through out doing this, I found leaks in the fittings but I was able to fix them with filing upto the 4th pipe I came across. The following problems happened:

1. So after taking this pipe out (goes from my gpu to cpu) I filed it and fixed the leak. But when putting it back in, I notice this:



It's about a good 1 cm short. I can put it back in, but I would really have to put strain on the 290, which I'm very uncomfortable in doing. This also means when it was fitted in, It was putting strain on the card to begin with, but I'm glad the leak happened as I would not have noticed this. How can I fix this without buying a new pipe? (im all out, unfortunately)

2. My second problem is with pipe 3. It's fit in and it's comfortable and all, but it's forcing the gpu a little bit. Not too much strain, but noticeable amount. It looks like this:



You can see it's a bit down and to the right. The holes don't match up well enough to pass a screw through it. I'm planning on leaving this as is, and adjusting pipe 4 (the one I was talking about earlier) so that it will keep the card in this position and not move it too much. Would this be a problem? Should I just wait, buy a new copper pipe, and redo both of them?

3. Also, throughout the testing phase, a lot of water fell on my parts. Some even on the edge of the my GPU's pcb. I'm using the psu of another computer to accomplish all of this. If I were to let everything to dry and not touch my PC for a few days, everything should be okay,right? Also, I'm using distilled water.

Thank you for bearing with me.
Edited by PillarOfAutumn - 12/31/13 at 5:45pm
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post #1414 of 2175
1. Something like this is very useful for drying ......



2. When redoing, always "cut long"..... very easy to shorten a tube, much harder to lengthen.

3. Use a test fitting with few inches of straight tube. For example, sticking that in GPU, you could then get an accurate measurement of distance from CPU block to bend point ..... "rinse and repeat" for distance downward by screwing into CPU block and measuring vertical distance..... then draw on paper and use as a template.

4. GFX cards droop from left to right.....I'd suggest propping the right end so you can take accurate measurements.
Edited by JackNaylorPE - 12/31/13 at 4:01pm
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post #1415 of 2175
If anyone's looking to buy a 10mm tube bender in the states, I just bought one from this lady on ebay. She has one more on sale.
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post #1416 of 2175
I currently have this build log going. Its got images from start to finish and I add in some information that I found useful during my build.
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post #1417 of 2175
Quote:
Originally Posted by PillarOfAutumn View Post

Hey, guys. I'm looking for some help.

Pillar: I'm answering this a week late, so I hope I can still help if you haven't already worked-out your issues.

Regarding 1: When mounting the tubes, I always attached the fittings to the tubes first and then screwed the fittings into the water blocks. Don't screw one side all the way in first. Instead, start each side and then tighten each side in one after another a little at a time until they are snugly fit in.

Regarding 2: I would make a new tube with the length adjusted to remove the strain on the video card. I have a box full of mistakes and unsatisfactory copper tubes that will end up at the recycler. Get the tubes as perfect as you can. It takes practice and some patience but the finished product will be worth it. I bought a lot of extra tubing when I built my rig because I know I would make a lot of bad tubes at first. I'm much better at it now.

Regarding 3: I cover my parts with towels (paper or cloth) when leak testing. As long as no power was applied to the parts then the distilled water should be OK after drying. I'd use a can of air duster and spray through all the little nooks and crannies on the components that had water fall on them to make sure no moisture got trapped anywhere.
post #1418 of 2175
Quote:
Originally Posted by Escovado View Post

Pillar: I'm answering this a week late, so I hope I can still help if you haven't already worked-out your issues.

Regarding 1: When mounting the tubes, I always attached the fittings to the tubes first and then screwed the fittings into the water blocks. Don't screw one side all the way in first. Instead, start each side and then tighten each side in one after another a little at a time until they are snugly fit in.

Regarding 2: I would make a new tube with the length adjusted to remove the strain on the video card. I have a box full of mistakes and unsatisfactory copper tubes that will end up at the recycler. Get the tubes as perfect as you can. It takes practice and some patience but the finished product will be worth it. I bought a lot of extra tubing when I built my rig because I know I would make a lot of bad tubes at first. I'm much better at it now.

Regarding 3: I cover my parts with towels (paper or cloth) when leak testing. As long as no power was applied to the parts then the distilled water should be OK after drying. I'd use a can of air duster and spray through all the little nooks and crannies on the components that had water fall on them to make sure no moisture got trapped anywhere.

Thank you Escovado! I was actually able to get past all those mistakes by buying a new copper tube. Here's my WIP: http://www.overclock.net/t/1455917/build-log-dark-knight-v-2-0
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post #1419 of 2175
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Escovado View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by PillarOfAutumn View Post

Hey, guys. I'm looking for some help.

Pillar: I'm answering this a week late, so I hope I can still help if you haven't already worked-out your issues.

Regarding 1: When mounting the tubes, I always attached the fittings to the tubes first and then screwed the fittings into the water blocks. Don't screw one side all the way in first. Instead, start each side and then tighten each side in one after another a little at a time until they are snugly fit in.

Regarding 2: I would make a new tube with the length adjusted to remove the strain on the video card. I have a box full of mistakes and unsatisfactory copper tubes that will end up at the recycler. Get the tubes as perfect as you can. It takes practice and some patience but the finished product will be worth it. I bought a lot of extra tubing when I built my rig because I know I would make a lot of bad tubes at first. I'm much better at it now.

Regarding 3: I cover my parts with towels (paper or cloth) when leak testing. As long as no power was applied to the parts then the distilled water should be OK after drying. I'd use a can of air duster and spray through all the little nooks and crannies on the components that had water fall on them to make sure no moisture got trapped anywhere.

All solid advice.
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MILSPEC II
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Be Quiet Dark Power 850 InWin D Frame Mini 
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post #1420 of 2175
Quote:
Originally Posted by PillarOfAutumn View Post

Thank you Escovado! I was actually able to get past all those mistakes by buying a new copper tube. Here's my WIP: http://www.overclock.net/t/1455917/build-log-dark-knight-v-2-0

Your build is looking good!
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