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post #421 of 2174
Anyone using SS tubing?
I would like to get a parts list together for 1/2" SS tubing/fittings/bender if anyone wants to contribute or suggest part numbers. Not sure if G 1/4 thread / 1/2" tube fittings are available.
Also I was looking at some fittings recently online and it looked as though the threaded part was pretty long, maybe too long for typical water cooling equipment. Anyone run into this with any particular push in type fittings?
post #422 of 2174
Quote:
Originally Posted by mandrix View Post

Anyone using SS tubing?
I would like to get a parts list together for 1/2" SS tubing/fittings/bender if anyone wants to contribute or suggest part numbers. Not sure if G 1/4 thread / 1/2" tube fittings are available.
Also I was looking at some fittings recently online and it looked as though the threaded part was pretty long, maybe too long for typical water cooling equipment. Anyone run into this with any particular push in type fittings?

I initially tried to do stainless on my build but ended up going to copper because dealing with the stainless was turning into a big pain in the you know what.

Finding the right fittings is a pain in it's own right. I am using industrial fittings in my build, had to lathe the threads down to fit. But even with industrial fittings, the bite wasn't string enough to get a hold of the stainless. I am sure it wouldn't have leaked, but I could pull the stainless out with some effort, which you shouldn't be able to do.

For 1/2" OD you are really going to need to keep an eye on what your ID is. Wall thickness will play a HUGE factor in what bender you pick up. I have several Rigid benders that work well but with 1/2 you won't be able to get that tight of a bend at all. I think for the 1/2" the bender would only get you about a 3" 180 degree bend compared to the 2" or so from the 3/8" bender.

The other thing you have to keep in mind is that copper is a bit more forgiving on bends. If it's slightly off you will be able to correct that by hand a little bit without creasing or bending the material. With stainless, however you bend it on the bender is how it's going to be, you're not going to be fixing it without heat and some torque.

Also, you have to be aware of cost and the amount of tubing you need. The final amount of tubing that ended up in my build is just a fraction of the amount I used in total. Whether it be from mistakes or from all the 1/8"-3" leftover pieces.

It's certainly possible to use stainless, I know if I had more I could have done it. But you just have to more aware of what you are doing and be precise within less than a millimeter in some/most case because there is just no give. Also depends what it is you are doing, some sections would certainly be easier than others. From my experience, it's just not worth it.
 
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post #423 of 2174
Quote:
Originally Posted by S3ason View Post

I think he's saying he wouldnt recommend 180 degree bends because they're very restrictive.

Yeah I was just saying I wouldnt recommend a 180 degree bend. Not because of restrictiveness but because of getting everything lined up correctly. Its very unlikely that a 180 bend will put you to where you need to be to get lined up. You will more than likely have to tweak the bend to get it to fit where it needs to be which would cause it to not look perfectly parallel.
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post #424 of 2174
Quote:
Originally Posted by hammerforged View Post

Yeah I was just saying I wouldnt recommend a 180 degree bend. Not because of restrictiveness but because of getting everything lined up correctly. Its very unlikely that a 180 bend will put you to where you need to be to get lined up. You will more than likely have to tweak the bend to get it to fit where it needs to be which would cause it to not look perfectly parallel.

That's why you measure and plan?

In all likelihood you'll never have to do a 180* bend straight from the bender, there is going to be some distance between the two bends, but there is certainly nothing wrong with doing one if you have to.
 
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post #425 of 2174
Quote:
Originally Posted by deafboy View Post

I initially tried to do stainless on my build but ended up going to copper because dealing with the stainless was turning into a big pain in the you know what.

Finding the right fittings is a pain in it's own right. I am using industrial fittings in my build, had to lathe the threads down to fit. But even with industrial fittings, the bite wasn't string enough to get a hold of the stainless. I am sure it wouldn't have leaked, but I could pull the stainless out with some effort, which you shouldn't be able to do.

For 1/2" OD you are really going to need to keep an eye on what your ID is. Wall thickness will play a HUGE factor in what bender you pick up. I have several Rigid benders that work well but with 1/2 you won't be able to get that tight of a bend at all. I think for the 1/2" the bender would only get you about a 3" 180 degree bend compared to the 2" or so from the 3/8" bender.

The other thing you have to keep in mind is that copper is a bit more forgiving on bends. If it's slightly off you will be able to correct that by hand a little bit without creasing or bending the material. With stainless, however you bend it on the bender is how it's going to be, you're not going to be fixing it without heat and some torque.

Also, you have to be aware of cost and the amount of tubing you need. The final amount of tubing that ended up in my build is just a fraction of the amount I used in total. Whether it be from mistakes or from all the 1/8"-3" leftover pieces.

It's certainly possible to use stainless, I know if I had more I could have done it. But you just have to more aware of what you are doing and be precise within less than a millimeter in some/most case because there is just no give. Also depends what it is you are doing, some sections would certainly be easier than others. From my experience, it's just not worth it.
deafboy, thank you very much for your information.
Perhaps I should rethink the 1/2" and go with 3/8".
I used to do a lot of SS tubing for lab equipment a long time ago but it was 1/4", easily bent with the spring benders. Plus I used Swagelock and Parker ferrule type fittings.

Did you find any push fit industrial fittings that did NOT have to have the threads trimmed down? (G 1/4 threads, 3/8" tubing)
post #426 of 2174
Quote:
Originally Posted by mandrix View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by deafboy View Post

I initially tried to do stainless on my build but ended up going to copper because dealing with the stainless was turning into a big pain in the you know what.

Finding the right fittings is a pain in it's own right. I am using industrial fittings in my build, had to lathe the threads down to fit. But even with industrial fittings, the bite wasn't string enough to get a hold of the stainless. I am sure it wouldn't have leaked, but I could pull the stainless out with some effort, which you shouldn't be able to do.

For 1/2" OD you are really going to need to keep an eye on what your ID is. Wall thickness will play a HUGE factor in what bender you pick up. I have several Rigid benders that work well but with 1/2 you won't be able to get that tight of a bend at all. I think for the 1/2" the bender would only get you about a 3" 180 degree bend compared to the 2" or so from the 3/8" bender.

The other thing you have to keep in mind is that copper is a bit more forgiving on bends. If it's slightly off you will be able to correct that by hand a little bit without creasing or bending the material. With stainless, however you bend it on the bender is how it's going to be, you're not going to be fixing it without heat and some torque.

Also, you have to be aware of cost and the amount of tubing you need. The final amount of tubing that ended up in my build is just a fraction of the amount I used in total. Whether it be from mistakes or from all the 1/8"-3" leftover pieces.

It's certainly possible to use stainless, I know if I had more I could have done it. But you just have to more aware of what you are doing and be precise within less than a millimeter in some/most case because there is just no give. Also depends what it is you are doing, some sections would certainly be easier than others. From my experience, it's just not worth it.
deafboy, thank you very much for your information.
Perhaps I should rethink the 1/2" and go with 3/8".
I used to do a lot of SS tubing for lab equipment a long time ago but it was 1/4", easily bent with the spring benders. Plus I used Swagelock and Parker ferrule type fittings.

Did you find any push fit industrial fittings that did NOT have to have the threads trimmed down? (G 1/4 threads, 3/8" tubing)

You can try these.



The threads look pretty much the same vs your regular compression fitting.
Edited by voldomazta - 2/11/13 at 5:32am
post #427 of 2174
Quote:
Originally Posted by voldomazta View Post

You can try these.



The threads look pretty much the same vs your regular compression fitting.
Thanks, voldomazta!

Ah, not sure those will work with hard tubing, though.
post #428 of 2174
Quote:
Originally Posted by voldomazta View Post

You can try these.



The threads look pretty much the same vs your regular compression fitting.

Yeah, my Parker push lok ones had to be lathed down. Depends on the blocks I suppose. But all of mine were required to be lathed down quite a bit.
 
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post #429 of 2174
Quote:
Originally Posted by mandrix View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by voldomazta View Post

You can try these.



The threads look pretty much the same vs your regular compression fitting.
Thanks, voldomazta!

Ah, not sure those will work with hard tubing, though.

The right one definitely will work with hard tubing. I have it. lol. The compression fitting on the left is just for comparison.
post #430 of 2174
Quote:
Originally Posted by voldomazta View Post

The right one definitely will work with hard tubing. I have it. lol. The compression fitting on the left is just for comparison.
Wow. Really? I emailed them today and they said it wasn't recommended for hard tubing. Hmmmm.
How long have you used them? Any leakers?
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