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Pipe bending 101 - Page 71

post #701 of 2175
Quote:
Originally Posted by Boweezie View Post

Hey guys! Looks like everyone is in full swing with copper pipes and whatnot, which is great thumb.gif I'm looking to do a complete overhaul of my system and case since the mobo, ram and cpu are close to being 5 years old. I'm looking to do a red and white themed build and had a question for you guys. My pipes will be clear 12mm acrylic but I wanted to know if anyone has seen BitsPower Deluxe White SLI fittings yet? I looked all over their main website and couldn't find it on there. They make practically everything else in their white color except the SLI multi links I need :-/ I emailed them but haven't heard anything yet. Hopefully if they don't have it now, then in the near future they will.

So I actually had to make a hotmail account to pm bitspower on their website to get an answer. I think my Comcast email was blocking them or something weird.

You can get any fitting in any color they have. Get the part number and change the color part to the color you want. So for instance I ordered a bunch of just brass fittings, y connectors, t bocks, etc and just emailed them the part number, how many pieces and don't forget to change out the color for the color you want. You will see what I'm talking about as all their part numbers follow an easy pattern. They might take up to 2 weeks to answer you, but once they do it goes quick.

Hope that helps.
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post #702 of 2175
So I ran into a problem:



I wanted to run the pipe from pump to the mid plate in a 90° fashion and with my luck, I bought the only pump top which has the outlet port set on an angle. This means I have to bend the pipe more than 90°, which breaks the outer part of the bend right? Is there anything I can do to remedy this, like bend the pipe in two different places or just get a new pump top?
post #703 of 2175
Breaks the outer part of the bend? What bender do you have? I have several bends tighter than 90 degrees.
 
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post #704 of 2175
Quote:
Originally Posted by mandrix View Post

[/SPOILER]
Yeah. Brasso is the thing for shining brass and copper.
I should know, I used enough of it in the Army. That was 40 years ago, maybe they got something better now, IDK. tongue.gif
Actually if you don't touch it with your fingers it holds up OK.

Just as another option for folks here for polishing

http://pumaknifecompanyusa.com/Metal-Polish-P110.aspx

We got told to use brasso (which works alright) but its is extremely dirty, takes a good bit of liquid, and also is not as effective as the product above. its about $8 per tube if you can find it at a local military depot etc.

literally had one tube of puma for 4 years of shining buckles, collar brass and other uniform items. It takes a tiny drop to shine a whole belt buckle, its quicker than brasso by a good 30 minutes to get the same shine and leaves less residue.........there are no other words than SUPERIOR lol. We felt we were almost cheating using puma because it was so much better than brasso

hope this helps for those looking to shine up those new metal loops wink.gifthumb.gif
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post #705 of 2175


So I tried bending angles tighter than 90°, the first one made that little crack so I tried doing it again.



The second one made the same crack too.

By the way I have the Ridgid 36102 410M


Edited by voldomazta - 3/15/13 at 3:35am
post #706 of 2175
Quote:
Originally Posted by voldomazta View Post

So I ran into a problem:



I wanted to run the pipe from pump to the mid plate in a 90° fashion and with my luck, I bought the only pump top which has the outlet port set on an angle. This means I have to bend the pipe more than 90°, which breaks the outer part of the bend right? Is there anything I can do to remedy this, like bend the pipe in two different places or just get a new pump top?

you can do a jumper with four bends in it......

Bends (from left to right pump):

1. straight up at a less than 90 angle (pic looks like maybe be at 85~87)
2. bend at 90 to the right horizontal
3. bend 90 from horizontal to a straight down position(going to next pump)
4. bend again at 87 degrees into the right pump


This may be pretty close quarters to make four bends back to back but I think if it can be fit into the benders it will at least eliminate the greater than 90 degree bend cracking issue. hope that helps. let me know if you need clarification on what im visualizing in my minds eye lol thumb.gif
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post #707 of 2175
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by voldomazta View Post



So I tried bending angles tighter than 90°, the first one made that little crack so I tried doing it again.



The second one made the same crack too.

By the way I have the Ridgid 36102 410M


I think your tube maybe a little thick on the wall...I can go 180s with most tube.

If you are struggling then make the 90 bend then shuffle along a bit then make the pump feed angle.
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post #708 of 2175
If it's a common problem then I was thinking somethig along the lines of this:



I'd prefer to use as few bends as possible to make it look smooth.
post #709 of 2175
Quote:
Originally Posted by B NEGATIVE View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by voldomazta View Post



So I tried bending angles tighter than 90°, the first one made that little crack so I tried doing it again.



The second one made the same crack too.

By the way I have the Ridgid 36102 410M


I think your tube maybe a little thick on the wall...I can go 180s with most tube.

If you are struggling then make the 90 bend then shuffle along a bit then make the pump feed angle.

Spot on BNEG. I might do just that. Well, when I asked the guy I bought these tubes from regarding the tube wall here's what he said:
Quote:
It would be Alloy 122 just like L, K & M . Those references are for wall thickness and does not apply to Metric.
post #710 of 2175
In order of wall thickness from thickest to thinnest it's K, L, M from what I've read.

I don't have any idea what's easiest to bend, I'm using refrigeration tubing.
Lowes had two different types of 3/8" coiled tubing, I'm using the "Utility Grade" which I now know is not as "pure" as other tubing, but I'm assuming the wall thickness is the same as the better grade.
If I had to do it over I probably would have selected the better grade just for the idea of less possible contaminants. But as often as I've been draining my loop lately I guess anything that might leach out is getting flushed.
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