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post #221 of 427
63c under water without a rad is impressive! Looking at the fan placement, it looks like you have 1 fan drawing air in front and it is being forced up into the top cooler and out the back by another fan. Do you have anything in front of the top cooler fan to prevent moisture coming out the back?
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post #222 of 427
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by sortableturnip View Post

63c under water without a rad is impressive! Looking at the fan placement, it looks like you have 1 fan drawing air in front and it is being forced up into the top cooler and out the back by another fan. Do you have anything in front of the top cooler fan to prevent moisture coming out the back?

Thanks!

Edit: I was way to tired to properly answer/read your question. There is a small block of plastic that sits in the bottom of the top cooler that prevents water from flowing out the rear fan hole. I forgot to take pictures of it, but everyone that was scared by water potentially flowing down the back of the computer, that's been fixed. Although it wasn't an issue before, it's better safe than sorry as it was VERY close to flowing over. As for preventing moisture from coming out the back, that's kind of the point of an evaporative cooler. I'm removing water vapor as much as possible. The water droplets that are falling near the exhaust fan however, are too heavy to get sucked out by the fan at the current limits I have set on the fan.

Both the intake and exhaust fans on the coolers are run from the same PWM signal off the Aquaero. I have them capped at 75% which is where the noise is bearable and also the point where I know the exhaust fan is not removing water (It makes a noise like a mosquito hitting a bug zapper whenever a water droplet hits the blades). The intake fan actually surprised me. Even if water is covering the baffle, the intake fan is still able to completely clear out all water and force air in there. If the water level gets about 1/2" above the edge of the baffle though, the fan's not strong enough to move that though. But anyways, I thought that was interesting.
Edited by InitialDriveGTR - 8/13/12 at 4:09am
post #223 of 427
Thread Starter 
Something I've been trying to figure out for a while now is what to do with the Blue accent lighting on the front and top panels. I think I've finally got it figured out. I'm trying to get rid of anything blue for one thing. Blue is NOT in my design plan. Blue = Bad. I want white lighting. Blue just goes and messes it all up. I had enough blue on Project Rainfall. Enough about blue. BTW, all the blue water lines are going ot be replaced with silver and sleeved in dark gray when I finalize the water loop. biggrin.gif I already messed up the clear coat on the top panel, so stuff is getting re-painted anyways. I'm going to mount LED strips in the accent spaces, following the original shape and lengths. Once the strips are secured, I'll fill in the accents with hot glue, and throw the panels in the freezer. The lower temps with the hot glue should allow me to sand the hot glue flush against the plastic of the panel without melting again. I'm going to then do three coats of white primer, two of white gloss then two clear coat. I'm hoping this will give me not only a nice looking paint job, but also when the LED strips are off, a plain white plastic panel. When the LED strips are on.... Well think white + tron...

tron-kevin-flynn-interior-design-4.jpg

BLUE I HATE YOU kookoo.gif
Edited by InitialDriveGTR - 8/13/12 at 4:13am
post #224 of 427
Thread Starter 
So I have a predicament. I just found some really nice unmarked 20 gauge white wire, and cut off 50 2 ft strands. I already crimped molex pins on one end of each, and I will resolder all the wires on my PSU with these. The question is, whether or not to paracord them this time.

IMG_1341.jpg

Also found this random pic. These are all the screws for JUST the bottom cooler assembly. That does not include the mid plate nor the reservoir. Note, the black rusty ones have all been replaced with stainless steel versions.

IMG_1340.jpg
Edited by InitialDriveGTR - 8/13/12 at 10:30am
post #225 of 427
Thread Starter 
This is now a sponsored build. EK-KIT H3O 360 LTX and EK-FC680 GTX are supposedly on their way.





Thanks EK thumb.gif This really helps especially since I had to unexpectantly buy a new phone.
post #226 of 427
Quote:
Originally Posted by InitialDriveGTR View Post

So I have a predicament. I just found some really nice unmarked 20 gauge white wire, and cut off 50 2 ft strands. I already crimped molex pins on one end of each, and I will resolder all the wires on my PSU with these. The question is, whether or not to paracord them this time. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
IMG_1341.jpg

Yes, please paracord. It makes it look much better!

Quote:
Originally Posted by InitialDriveGTR View Post

This is now a sponsored build. EK-KIT H3O 360 LTX and EK-FC680 GTX are supposedly on their way. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Thanks EK thumb.gif This really helps especially since I had to unexpectantly buy a new phone.

Congo rats!
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post #227 of 427
Quote:
Originally Posted by InitialDriveGTR View Post

Got crushed between two 18-wheelers and a 850 wagon saved everyone in the car's life thumb.gif And that's why I own a S70 T5 and a 164 and I want to be on their design team

Oh da*n!!! ohno-smiley02.gif Really glad to hear you all survived such an accident. Yeah volvos are build like tanks, don't know how much abuse my dad put on his 940 estate and it's still going strong. thumb.gif
post #228 of 427
Grats on the sponsorship! But... a rad? doesn't that defeat the purpose? biggrin.gif
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post #229 of 427
Quote:
Originally Posted by nategr8ns View Post

Grats on the sponsorship! But... a rad? doesn't that defeat the purpose? biggrin.gif

One can never have too many rads biggrin.giftongue.gif
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post #230 of 427
Quote:
Originally Posted by nategr8ns View Post

Grats on the sponsorship! But... a rad? doesn't that defeat the purpose? biggrin.gif

Nope, just helps cool even more
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