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Can i run a 790i ultra motherboard without water cooling?

post #1 of 3
Thread Starter 
Hi,

As the title says would i be able to run an Asus 790i ultra motherboard without water cooling? The reason i ask this is because it has a water block on the north bridge so i assume it needs to be watercooled?

Many thanks.
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post #2 of 3
put small fans on it and dont go insane on overclocking it, but yeah it will air cool good enough until you can buy a pump rad and reservoir, i would block the holes until i bough the watercooling stuff so it doesnt get dirty
   
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post #3 of 3
Taking a look at the board itself, and owning an EVGA 790i Ultra (that does not have water blocks standard) myself, I don't see why not. the 790i was/is a bit of a thermal beast though - better than the 780i and previous nVidia boards, but still a toaster by today's standards. EVGA handled that by slapping a massive heat sink over the Northbridge, and heat pipping it to various other heat sinks all around the CPU socket.

The cooling on the ASUS 790i was designed to be able to run passively, but obviously, you'll get the best performance out of a water cooling setup. If that's not in the cards (which it isn't for a lot of people - such as myself), you should be fine. I would double check and make sure that the barbs for the water cooling plumbing are still capped. Any dust that may have gotten in would only hinder any heat transfer out and away from your Northbridge.

If you lost the caps, and it is full of dust, just blow it out with some canned air or an air compressor and tape it off with Teflon tape. It will be trickier than using plain electrical tape, but it will not leave any residue and is just as non-conductive as E-Tape. My own suggestion (and I would make this whenever storing any water cooling block or part) is to make a cross with the Teflon tape over the barb - one piece, bottom-to-top, across the top, top-to-bottom, then repeat with a second piece rotated by 90 degrees - to seal off the end, then hold it in place while you wrap more Teflon tape tightly around the barbs and ends of the cross you have over the barb. The tape will stretch and conform to the barbs of the water block, holding everything tightly in place without adhesive.
Of course, don't do any of this until you are sure the interior of the block is dry (if it was coming out of an active water loop) - less you get any corrosion. I couldn't find anything on the material of the block, but it's an older one, I wouldn't be surprised if there is copper/no nickle plating.

If you plan on really cranking the OC - I got my Q6600 and 790i Ultra to a stable 3.0Ghz, but ran into an unrelated issue, had to clear CMOS and didn't remember the specifics of the clock speeds, nor did I feel like experimenting to find them again - I recommend that you track down an air cooler for the 790i chipset, as well as replacement heat sinks for the MOSFETs. But good luck on that though, third-party heat sinks for 790i boards were hard enough to find when the board was in it's heyday, I can't imagine how rare ones that aren't currently attached to boards would be.
 
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Core i7-2600 ASUS Sabertooth P67 Zotac GT 430 Mushkin Enhanced Redline 
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