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post #21 of 28
Tygon 3603, the type you had shown earlier, is pretty bad about leeching also. And it isn't a result of the water heating up, hot water just accelerates the problem.

The pump in the resevoir is just a straight pump, the separate pump in your list has been modified by Swiftech with that block you mentioned, the speed control, and fittings and mounts for being used inside a case. The XSPC dual bay resevoirs do not dismantle, they are one solid piece of acrylic that has been heat-welded together.

EK only wants their coolants run in their blocks, anything else and you'll never get them to replace anything under warranty if something goes wrong. Personally, I know EK is cheap and pretty, but if I were going to piece together my own loop I'd do it with the more expensive brands. You're already paying a premium buying it piecemeal, you might as well make sure that you get a quality product and that one thing in your loop isn't going to screw up the rest. Heatkiller, MIPS, etc... There are some good manufacturers out there that get ignored either because of the extra $15 or the international shipping.
    
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post #22 of 28
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ganf View Post

Tygon 3603, the type you had shown earlier, is pretty bad about leeching also. And it isn't a result of the water heating up, hot water just accelerates the problem.

The pump in the resevoir is just a straight pump, the separate pump in your list has been modified by Swiftech with that block you mentioned, the speed control, and fittings and mounts for being used inside a case. The XSPC dual bay resevoirs do not dismantle, they are one solid piece of acrylic that has been heat-welded together.

EK only wants their coolants run in their blocks, anything else and you'll never get them to replace anything under warranty if something goes wrong. Personally, I know EK is cheap and pretty, but if I were going to piece together my own loop I'd do it with the more expensive brands. You're already paying a premium buying it piecemeal, you might as well make sure that you get a quality product and that one thing in your loop isn't going to screw up the rest. Heatkiller, MIPS, etc... There are some good manufacturers out there that get ignored either because of the extra $15 or the international shipping.

Okay.

So get rid of the extra pump. Not even mad. Saves me 100$ smile.gif.

Get duralene tubing.

If I go with EK use their coolant.

But I should go with a more expensive brand. The international shipping will be a pain in my ass tho frown.gif.
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post #23 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by Codycjd View Post

Okay.
So get rid of the extra pump. Not even mad. Saves me 100$ smile.gif.
Get duralene tubing.
If I go with EK use their coolant.
But I should go with a more expensive brand. The international shipping will be a pain in my ass tho frown.gif.

What country are you located in? I see your buying primarily from FCPU or PPC's so I assume the US?
post #24 of 28
Heatkiller you can get in the U.S. along with XSPC and others. But don't just change everything on my basis, get some more opinions. I'm sure many people will agree that an extra %10-15 on blocks is worth the peace of mind should anything go wrong. With EK all you get is finger pointing, typically back at you.
    
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post #25 of 28
If you went with EK all copper blocks then you really do not need their coolant, a drop or 2 of PT Nuke will keep things new like for along time! Then you don't have to worry about nickel flaking off, Martinsliquidlab has had a cooling loop with all copper blocks using only PT Nuke and even today his loop looks like new after more than 2 years!
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post #26 of 28
Thread Starter 
I'm going to have to think about this a little bit more before I pull the trigger.

The nickel will be better (imo) aesthetically , but it has a chance to flake off. If I want to use it I should use EK's coolant to make sure I can replace the blocks.

The copper will be less aesthetically pleasing, but it will be a lot easier to manage.

Decisions. Decisions.
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post #27 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by Codycjd View Post

I'm going to have to think about this a little bit more before I pull the trigger.
The nickel will be better (imo) aesthetically , but it has a chance to flake off. If I want to use it I should use EK's coolant to make sure I can replace the blocks.
The copper will be less aesthetically pleasing, but it will be a lot easier to manage.
Decisions. Decisions.

There is an third option, go ahead and buy the nickel blocks and if there flake who cares so long as you don't get the acrylic versions. It's not like the flakes of nickel are going to harm your loop or anything!
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post #28 of 28
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Systemlord View Post

There is an third option, go ahead and buy the nickel blocks and if there flake who cares so long as you don't get the acrylic versions. It's not like the flakes of nickel are going to harm your loop or anything!

Oh. Really? That's very nice to know. I will for sure go with the nickel then. biggrin.gif
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EK Direct CUII 7970 (Acetal + Copper) Windows 8 Pro 3 x Asus PA238Q (Eyefinity) Razer Black Widow Ultimate 
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SeaSonic Platinum 860w Corsair Obsidian 800D Razer Mamba 2012 Steel Series QCK+ / Mionix Sargas 900 
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