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Raystorm copper

post #1 of 13
7/19/12 at 8:00am
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I was just trying to figure out how much (if any) the difference in temp would be between the full copper raystorm for $99 on jab-tech and the normal raystorm for $49. Is it worth the extra money or are we just talking visual appeal and a degree or two difference? Thanks in advance
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post #2 of 13
7/19/12 at 8:04am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Clockwerk View Post

I was just trying to figure out how much (if any) the difference in temp would be between the full copper raystorm for $99 on jab-tech and the normal raystorm for $49. Is it worth the extra money or are we just talking visual appeal and a degree or two difference? Thanks in advance

Strangely, XSPC's copper Raystorm is more restrictive than the acetal. That being said, all the top-tier performing blocks are close enough together in CPU-only the thermal performance separation is smaller than the thermal variance in good/poor block mounting.

dt5noz-pressuredrop2b.png?w=578&h=724&h=724

2600kthermalsummary2-20-12.png?w=614
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post #3 of 13
7/19/12 at 9:19am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skripka View Post

Strangely, XSPC's copper Raystorm is more restrictive than the acetal. That being said, all the top-tier performing blocks are close enough together in CPU-only the thermal performance separation is smaller than the thermal variance in good/poor block mounting.
dt5noz-pressuredrop2b.png?w=578&h=724&h=724
2600kthermalsummary2-20-12.png?w=614

Thanks for the quick response. Sounds like I will just save myself the 50 bucks and go with the acetal block instead of copper.
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post #4 of 13
7/19/12 at 9:10pm
The acetal XSPC RayStorm is the best choice. Anyway, the copper on the top would end up corroding over time and you'd end up cleaning it all the time. If you want a part from the copper kit, you can buy the aluminum bracket for the RayStorm separately, which would be more sturdy than the acrylic bracket (but you lose the ability to use the LEDs).

http://www.jab-tech.com/product.php?productid=4924&cat=239&page=1
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post #5 of 13
7/19/12 at 9:32pm
^^If you get a full copper block, any full copper block, just clear coat the top making sure ya cover the holes up first.
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post #6 of 13
7/20/12 at 11:15am
Quote:
Originally Posted by aln688 View Post

The acetal XSPC RayStorm is the best choice. Anyway, the copper on the top would end up corroding over time and you'd end up cleaning it all the time.

Not if one uses corrosion inhibitors! Exterior however should be lacquered as EK CPU blocks are.
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post #7 of 13
7/20/12 at 11:25am
Quote:
Originally Posted by DirectOverkill View Post

Not if one uses corrosion inhibitors! Exterior however should be lacquered as EK CPU blocks are.

I was referring to the top of the block where the fittings attach, not inside. I saw no mention of a lacquered top on the XSPC copper block, and the one I saw in a build never had any coating on it (HeatKiller lacquers their copper blocks though).
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post #8 of 13
7/20/12 at 11:27am
Quote:
Originally Posted by aln688 View Post

I was referring to the top of the block where the fittings attach, not inside. I saw no mention of a lacquered top on the XSPC copper block, and the one I saw in a build never had any coating on it (HeatKiller lacquers their copper blocks though).

In that case you are correct!
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post #9 of 13
7/20/12 at 12:29pm
Thread Starter 
So from the sound of this it would be much easier to just go with the acetal block, unless there is a marginal performance gain from the copper.
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post #10 of 13
7/20/12 at 12:33pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Clockwerk View Post

So from the sound of this it would be much easier to just go with the acetal block, unless there is a marginal performance gain from the copper.

Edit: I misinterpreted the question, lol. I don't think there's much performance difference. There'd be a small amount but as it's a limited edition I'd assume it was mainly for aesthetics.
Edited by ArkAngel666 - 7/20/12 at 12:35pm
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