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Serious problem with tube bending and question about loop order

post #1 of 17
Thread Starter 
I have a major issue due to how close all 3 blocks are in my system (MOSFET/VRM block, CPU block, and GPU block). Originally, my plan was to go from MOSFET to CPU to GPU block.

The problem is that no matter what I do, either cutting different lengths of tubing (I've already wasted a foot and a half of tubing) or to swap from straight fittings to 45 degree fittings, I cannot get a piece of tubing connected from the MOSFET to the CPU block without kinking or bending in the middle. So after 15 minutes of tinkering, the only way I've been able to set it up so that the tubing is able to connect AND not kink or bend is shown in this picture. As you can see, the fittings are all very close to one another.


However, this causes the problem that the water would flow from CPU (the left fitting with no tube would be the entrance point of the water) to GPU to MOSFET (the tubing right next to the right fitting is where the water would exit this 3 block loop). How much of a problem would these be for my temps and stability (considering I will be highly overclocking the 3930k which on this board makes the VRMs run quite hot)?

The only other thing I can think of is to use anti-kink coils, which I really, REALLY, REALLY don't want to use.

Below are some alternate setups I tried, to no avail. In this one, you can clearly see the kink in the middle.


Let's try the other side of the VRM block. Nope same thing. Although it's not clearly kinked, you can see by my fingers that the tubing is compressed in the middle aka on the verge of kinking.


Same setup as previous picture, just with longer tubing. Made no difference.


This is the ONLY setup that would work (empty fitting on the VRM block is where the water enters, empty fitting on the GPU block is where it exits) , but it requires an anti-kink coil.


I will greatly appreciate any input on this because I'm at a loss for what to do. frown.gif
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post #2 of 17

Get some anit-kink and that will solve that issue.

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post #3 of 17
Go in to the cpu on the right port first, then left port of cpu to graphics right port, then left graphics port to left mosfets and exit on the right mosfets?
Edit: or if you wanted you could reverse the order and enter on the mosfets and exit on the cpu?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lord Xeb View Post

Get some anit-kink and that will solve that issue.

That, or some extra fittings could go the trick. Perhaps, though, the OP would rather not buy more things?
Edited by ArkAngel666 - 7/23/12 at 10:05pm
post #4 of 17
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ArkAngel666 View Post

Go in to the cpu on the right port first, then left port of cpu to graphics right port, then left graphics port to left mosfets and exit on the right mosfets?

Believe me, that's the very the first thing I thought of. But the install notes state "the G1/4 port nearest to the center of the water block MUST BE USED AS THE INLET PORT." frown.gif
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post #5 of 17

Zip-ties also work very well.

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Unobtainium
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MacBook Pro 17"
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post #6 of 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by Warrior1986 View Post

Believe me, that's the very the first thing I thought of. But the install notes state "the G1/4 port nearest to the center of the water block MUST BE USED AS THE INLET PORT." frown.gif

Of the CPU block? Simple... take it off, turn it 180 degrees and remount it thumb.giftongue.gif

Edit: You wouldn't even need to actually... you'd just have the left cpu port (inlet?) coming up and over the right. So you could go CPU(Left) > CPU(Right) > GPU(Right) > GPU(Left) > MOS(Left) > MOS(Right)... you'd only need to turn it really if you wanted the aesthetics of a continuous line. Or yeah, like I said in my edit, reverse the order, the left cpu port therein becomes an inlet from the GPU wink.gif
Edited by ArkAngel666 - 7/23/12 at 10:14pm
post #7 of 17
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lord Xeb View Post

Get some anit-kink and that will solve that issue.

I may have to break down and do that, which would make the last picture a viable setup.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ArkAngel666 View Post

That, or some extra fittings could go the trick. Perhaps, though, the OP would rather not buy more things?

What other fittings could even work here?
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post #8 of 17
I would personally grab two 90 degrees fittings and replace from vrm outlet and cpu inlet. It will look very nice and you will have no performance issues.
post #9 of 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by Warrior1986 View Post

I may have to break down and do that, which would make the last picture a viable setup.
What other fittings could even work here?

An angled would probably work, maybe some swiveling elbows that would make the hose bend around instead of up. Anyways, you won't need fittings, check my post edits. thumb.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by The_chemist21 View Post

I would personally grab two 90 degrees fittings and replace from vrm outlet and cpu inlet. It will look very nice and you will have no performance issues.

Or this would work with the elbows.
post #10 of 17
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ArkAngel666 View Post

Edit: You wouldn't even need to actually... you'd just have the left cpu port (inlet?) coming up and over the right. So you could go CPU(Left) > CPU(Right) > GPU(Right) > GPU(Left) > MOS(Left) > MOS(Right)...

Quote:
Originally Posted by The_chemist21 View Post

I would personally grab two 90 degrees fittings and replace from vrm outlet and cpu inlet. It will look very nice and you will have no performance issues.

These two seem like the most realistic choices.

This one is ArkAngel's idea.


Chemist's idea.


I think I may have to do the 2nd one as it maintains the in/out flow from left to right on all the blocks - the heatkiller block's notes mention that to get the best GPU temp, port closest to the slot bracket should be an inlet. Of course, this would mean having to get 2 90 degree fittings. Probably either the Bitspower one (not the elbow one) or Enzotech.
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