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post #21 of 37
thats funny, sounds like how i got into ocing, decided to build my first computer because at the time i didnt know squat, then once i did that i saw that you could make it faster, then thnigs got hot, now seven years later i have a phase unit cooling my cpu

it never stops
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post #22 of 37
Well, for my $.02, I agree with Snerp and Gonx.. Start with 600 or 800 grit, use water ( get the wet/dry paper from AUTO ZONE) , and use a figure 8 pattern when lapping.
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post #23 of 37
Quote:
Originally Posted by Snerp View Post
There is no need to start at 180 or 220 if you don't need to remove material. If you are just trying to get it flat you could start at 600 or 800 (when lapping the HS that is).
Youve got that backwards... its the coarse grits that remove the metal, making it flat. Then the finer grits are used to smooth out the scratches from the coarser ones. Starting with 600+ grit will take forever to lapp it. Again, a flat surface is more important than a smooth shiney one.

This applies to both IHS's and heatsinks.


On left is my IHS, and right is my stock cooler for my 6800GS.

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post #24 of 37
Quote:
Originally Posted by pbasil1 View Post
Youve got that backwards... its the coarse grits that remove the metal, making it flat. Then the finer grits are used to smooth out the scratches from the coarser ones.
No I don't, you are reading it wrong...It makes sense to me

I was saying if he is starting off with a factory lapped HSF there is no reason to start with the coarser grits.
    
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post #25 of 37
Quote:
Originally Posted by Snerp View Post
No I don't, you are reading it wrong...It makes sense to me

I was saying if he is starting off with a factory lapped HSF there is no reason to start with the coarser grits.
Yes there is... Many stock heatsinks, even though they may be factory "lapped" they still tend to be not flat. Many heatsinks and IHS' are concave, which sint flat. So to make it flat, you need to start with ~200 grit paper to take the matel off from the outsides, making it flat. Trying to get rid of a concave surface with 600+ paper would take forever, and be a waste of time/energy because all you would have to do is start with a lower grit.

You can see that the cooler form my 6800gs was actually convex, thats why the outsides of the surface are not polished looking.

The only reason to start from 600+ is to make it shiny.

EDIT: Im not saying you HAVE to start with 200grit or so, im just saying that many ihs' and heatsinks need to be done that way. If you start with 600, and notice that the middle, or the outsides are not being snaded down like the rest of the surface is, then you need to go to a coarser grit.
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post #26 of 37
I started with 600 grit, and finished with 1500
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post #27 of 37
Thread Starter 
I understand I read up on one of the FAQ's too.. Thanks all now if I can find where I put that sandy I got from 3xtr3m3...I can still be on the go and work the grit
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post #28 of 37
Thread Starter 
Well lapping should come with a medical warning that states:

"LAPPING OF COMPONENTS MAY CAUSE SEVERE CRAMPS"
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post #29 of 37
Quote:
Originally Posted by dotcomthese View Post
Well lapping should come with a medical warning that states:

"LAPPING OF COMPONENTS MAY CAUSE SEVERE CRAMPS"

That's fine, you got it flat and the major scratches off it...There is no reason to polish it...
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post #30 of 37
Quote:
Originally Posted by dotcomthese View Post
Well lapping should come with a medical warning that states:

"LAPPING OF COMPONENTS MAY CAUSE SEVERE CRAMPS"
Hell ya, my fingers and wrsit hurt so bad when i finished my IHS.... Couple hrs of lapping kicks your butt...lolSo what was your final grit? Doesnt look too polished, perhaps you could go get some 1500-2000grit to finish it off, i a high polish can help a little.In my pictures you can see how polished thay are, the IHS was done to 10 micron... which is supposidly around 5000grit. Then the gpu cooler was lapped to only 1500 grit.
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