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post #10391 of 14152
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mayhem View Post

it really up to you how ever i wrote the instruction so that it make sure you get the most from the products. Patience is a virtue smile.gif

Best to be safe than sorry i guess. Well got to the end did the two flush then added the magic.






There it is. Its a spot on match for my fans but my cables,ram and PSU have a darker shade to them. I can forgive the ram an psu but its the cables that stick out the most. Expensive option is to colour match the braided cable or as i luckily have some dark blue dye add required amount of drop then paint a set of fan rings darker.
post #10392 of 14152
Quote:
Originally Posted by cyphon View Post

1) please post pics
2) I highly recommend to everyone to air-leak test instead of leak test with water. All you need is a shrader valve and a pressure gauge...they usually have 1/4" npt thread, but Koolance makes an NPT to G 1/4" adapter that works well. Then, it is simply plug the gague into one spot, valve into the other, and use a bike pump to put 8-10psi into it. This is more pressure than your loop will have, so it is stress testing it a bit. Let it sit for awhile and make sure that the air pressure doesn't go down. If it doesn't, you are good to go. If it does, then you can use soapy water and a q-tip around suspect leak areas and they will bubble if there is a leak. This is way safer and way cleaner than putting water in your system and hoping for the best thumb.gif You can also test sections or individual components if you desire. For example, you can put the valve and gauge directly on the rad and make sure that it is not leaking.

This is a killer idea. +rep smile.gif I bought the fittings to make a T adapter with gauge and Schrader valve tonight, I'm going to be doing a full tear down this weekend so great timing.

What PSI does the typical loop run? Just a ballpark would be nice to know.
post #10393 of 14152
Quote:
Originally Posted by krel View Post

This is a killer idea. +rep smile.gif I bought the fittings to make a T adapter with gauge and Schrader valve tonight, I'm going to be doing a full tear down this weekend so great timing.

What PSI does the typical loop run? Just a ballpark would be nice to know.

10 psi will be just fine. 10-12.

here we go:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1534282/how-to-correctly-leak-test-your-loop-101

everyone should be doing this way. The schrader valve+manometer goes for 12 bucks on amazon and other stores in US.

edit - most rads are rated at 1 bar which is nearly 14.5 psi. At 12 psi you can hear the air leaking and find it quite easily so no need to go any higher than that. Some rads (watercool) are rated at 5 bar while others can be rated at 0.8 bar (some aquacomputer). So, even if you are using a Aquacomputer one 11 psi would be fine.
Edited by Gabrielzm - 3/27/15 at 7:14pm
post #10394 of 14152
Quote:
Originally Posted by krel View Post

This is a killer idea. +rep smile.gif I bought the fittings to make a T adapter with gauge and Schrader valve tonight, I'm going to be doing a full tear down this weekend so great timing.

What PSI does the typical loop run? Just a ballpark would be nice to know.

NP. Everyone should do it this way. Takes the stress and mess out of it. Really good feeling when you fill it you know there will be no issues at all.

I am working on my res fixture and testing it now


I usually do 8-10psi personally. I will put in a little more then release it to the line since I don't have a compressor and regulator and use a simple bike pump.

If you have a pressure loss, simply get a soapy water solution and some q-tips anddab some of the solution around fittings and other suspected leak places.

I found a pretty crazy leak in a GPU block once that would have been terrible if I had filled it with water.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Gabrielzm View Post

10 psi will be just fine. 10-12.

here we go:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1534282/how-to-correctly-leak-test-your-loop-101

everyone should be doing this way. The schrader valve+manometer goes for 12 bucks on amazon and other stores in US.

edit - most rads are rated at 1 bar which is nearly 14.5 psi. At 12 psi you can hear the air leaking and find it quite easily so no need to go any higher than that. Some rads (watercool) are rated at 5 bar while others can be rated at 0.8 bar (some aquacomputer). So, even if you are using a Aquacomputer one 11 psi would be fine.

This
Edited by cyphon - 3/27/15 at 7:39pm
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post #10395 of 14152
Quote:
Originally Posted by cyphon View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by ZytheEKS View Post

Just a PSA to everyone, remember to leak test with an external PSU jump. Just filled with 3liters of XT-1 clear, and apparently I punctured my rad installing the fans and it spilled EVERYWHERE in the chassis. Might cost you a couple dozen $ in coolant, as it cost me, but that beats a few hundred in hardware. Ripped the radiator out and refilled with some X1 Oil black I had in the closet.

On a completely unrelated note Mayhems Ultrapure tastes amazing, tastiest water I've ever drank. (Had a bit under 50ml after I finished filling and thought why not)

-Z
Minor fin damage is fairly typical for radiators. Radiator fins are around 25microns thick, that's 0.025mm thick. All it takes is the fedex guy throwing it at the wrong angle to bend a fin. This also means they're extremely easy to bend back into position. I wouldn't put a second thought into throwing it in your loop. The type of defects that merit an RMA or second guessing installing it are loose fins (i.e. they are physically loose), punctured tubes, that sort of thing. thumb.gif

-Z

Still say leak test with air first. Always fill using the backup jumped PSU tho thumb.gif

The crazy part is I DID leak test with air first. I don't know if maybe the screw was keeping the puncture airtight, and maybe the surfactant made it slide off, or maybe I bumped it and it pushed the screw away from the puncture, or what.

Someone company out there really should rig a propylene glycol atomizer into a fan, and make a PG vapor leak test machine.

-Z
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post #10396 of 14152
Quote:
Originally Posted by cyphon View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by krel View Post

This is a killer idea. +rep smile.gif I bought the fittings to make a T adapter with gauge and Schrader valve tonight, I'm going to be doing a full tear down this weekend so great timing.

What PSI does the typical loop run? Just a ballpark would be nice to know.

NP. Everyone should do it this way. Takes the stress and mess out of it. Really good feeling when you fill it you know there will be no issues at all.

I am working on my res fixture and testing it now


I usually do 8-10psi personally. I will put in a little more then release it to the line since I don't have a compressor and regulator and use a simple bike pump.

If you have a pressure loss, simply get a soapy water solution and some q-tips anddab some of the solution around fittings and other suspected leak places.

I found a pretty crazy leak in a GPU block once that would have been terrible if I had filled it with water.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gabrielzm View Post

10 psi will be just fine. 10-12.

here we go:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1534282/how-to-correctly-leak-test-your-loop-101

everyone should be doing this way. The schrader valve+manometer goes for 12 bucks on amazon and other stores in US.

edit - most rads are rated at 1 bar which is nearly 14.5 psi. At 12 psi you can hear the air leaking and find it quite easily so no need to go any higher than that. Some rads (watercool) are rated at 5 bar while others can be rated at 0.8 bar (some aquacomputer). So, even if you are using a Aquacomputer one 11 psi would be fine.

This


This all day guys . . . .

The ease and cost of building a little widget for air testing, versus the cost of damaged gear, or even just the cost in time to tear down and clean up, just makes it a no brainer.

As above, when you build unique modules or sub-assemblies that integrate into a whole, it's really important to test each module, and if it passes, then physically handle the module to simulate the effects it could receive from being installed, and then test again.

This is especially true when you have sub assemblies that preclude being able to get to each connection for testing once assembled.

Knowing that all your sub assemblies have passed rigorous testing makes it wayyyyy easier to troubleshoot a leak once everything is assembled, as you already know where the leak probably isn't.

If you've disassembled waterblocks for cleaning or to polish the acrylic, the value of an air test is enormous, especially when there are metal cover plates with o rings underneath them.

Once you have your widget, if you use it on each stage of your build, you'll have confidence as you work on successive phases, that everything so far is already good to go.


Using my Tropical Frost build as an example, here's the heat exchangers module being tested . . . . If there had been a leak in either side, I might have had to put the whole assembly in a sink full of water to find it because of so many fittings that are virtually unreachable.

Warm side loop test:




Cold side loop test:




Mobo and GPU's assembly tested as a module:




And finally, the completed internal loop tested:




And since this is the Mayhems thread . . . X1 Oil black in the warm loop, and X1 clear in the cold loop:





When you've spent thousands of dollars on a nice rig, and hundreds to build the custom loop, . . . . .

Not spending a few dollars more to make an air test widget is just dumb.


Darlene
Edited by IT Diva - 3/28/15 at 4:27pm
post #10397 of 14152
Quote:
Originally Posted by IT Diva View Post

This all day guys . . . .

The ease and cost of building a little widget for air testing, versus the cost of damaged gear, or even just the cost in time to tear down and clean up, just makes it a no brainer.

As above, when you build unique modules or sub-assemblies that integrate into a whole, it's really important to test each module, and if it passes, then physically handle the module to simulate the effects it could receive from being installed, and then test again.

This is especially true when you have sub assemblies that preclude being able to get to each connection for testing once assembled.

Knowing that all your sub assemblies have passed rigorous testing makes it wayyyyy easier to troubleshoot a leak once everything is assembled, as you already know where the leak probably isn't.

If you've disassembled waterblocks for cleaning or to polish the acrylic, the value of an air test is enormous, especially when there are metal cover plates with o rings underneath them.

Once you have your widget, if you use it on each stage of your build, you'll have confidence as you work on successive phases, that everything so far is already good to go.


Using my Tropical Frost build as an example, here's the heat exchangers module being tested . . . . If there had been a leak in either side, I might have had to put the whole assembly in a sink full of water to find it because of so many fittings that are virtually unreachable.

Warm side loop test: Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)



Cold side loop test:




Mobo and GPU's assembly tested as a module:




And finally, the completed internal loop tested:




And since this is the Mayhems thread . . . Oil black in the warm loop, and X1 clear in the cold loop:



When you've spent thousands of dollars on a nice rig, and hundreds to build the custom loop, . . . . .

Not spending a few dollars more to make an air test widget is just dumb.


Darlene

You're bolded point regarding handling the pieces as you are testing is a good/important one thumb.gif



Also for those interested, here are the part numbers and suppliers I used.

At McMaster-Carr:
1/8" Shrader Valve 1/4" NPT thread: 8063K38
Pressure Guage 1/4" NPT thread: 3846K312

At PPCs:
1/4" NPT to G 1/4" adapter: ADT-G14M-N14F

Then just need a standard bike pump smile.gif

EDIT: you may want to grab some plumbers tape too to help seal the NPT parts threads
Edited by cyphon - 3/28/15 at 1:28pm
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post #10398 of 14152
Thread Starter 
you do know glycols cause rubber to tighten up (or shrink) ....... Its only buy a fraction but some thing always to consider.
post #10399 of 14152
hey guys ive been running aurora 2 red for about a month now..its turned chocolate brown..i ran a lemon juice mix threw my phobya rads 4 times and then a bi carb flush 4 times...the ph was 7 when i added my aurora and this still happens..what have i done wrong this time...thats twice its gone bad within a few months....what can i do now????i need a blitz part 1 but cant find any where in australia...can i run some kind of acid threw it before ???
i need some serious help its costing me a fortune buying new coolant every 3 months
here is a picture of the res with its chocolate brown coolant....
20150329_1622561_zpsscuwhqul.jpg

what it looked like 1 month ago
20150311_1520401_zpsaw0iixcj.jpg
thanks
post #10400 of 14152
Quote:
Originally Posted by RpeeKooz View Post

hey guys ive been running aurora 2 red for about a month now..its turned chocolate brown..i ran a lemon juice mix threw my phobya rads 4 times and then a bi carb flush 4 times...the ph was 7 when i added my aurora and this still happens..what have i done wrong this time...thats twice its gone bad within a few months....what can i do now????i need a blitz part 1 but cant find any where in australia...can i run some kind of acid threw it before ???
i need some serious help its costing me a fortune buying new coolant every 3 months
here is a picture of the res with its chocolate brown coolant.... Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
20150329_1622561_zpsscuwhqul.jpg

what it looked like 1 month ago
IMG
]
thanks

You do realize that Aurora is a coolant for pictures or like tech shows like CES, PAX, etc right? Like it'll look cool for a short amount of time then...not so much
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