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post #13831 of 15594
Quote:
Originally Posted by viperguy212 View Post

Hey all,

I have a quick question concerning the bltiz kit...

I'm planning to put my build together this weekend but wanted to clean out the rads today or tomorrow to save some time. Any harm in running part 1 through the rads now then completing things with part 2 this weekend (say like 3-4 days)?

Thanks!


Should probably be fine. Part 1 is there to dissolve oil and flux and other debris like old coolant, dye and pasticizer from the rad. Id just flush the bejeesus out of the rad with distilled water and if you are concerned about dust resettling in, cap it off with the port plugs. But part 2 will probably take care of stuff like dust.

I assume you meant use part 1 and leave it empty till the weekend. Do NOT leave part 1 in the rad longer than the instructions say to.
post #13832 of 15594
Quote:
Originally Posted by devsfan1830 View Post

Don't think the res will matter too much. I have an Acetal/Plexi one that works just fine. As for longevity I'm not sure how long you are hoping for. I used XT-1 with blue dye and needed to clean and change the coolant after about 8 months but that's because the dye gunked up the system. I switched to Pastel White and have never had an issue. I dont think its dyed white. Rather its the nano particles in it that give it the color. So there's nothing to stain. I can get a year or so out of it before a change. Could probably go longer but its what I just prefer to do. If you use plain water with UV reactive colored dye you may end up with the same gunking. You may not. I've never used any dyes other than that blue that time. Also with some dyes you may get discoloration of the tubing on some tubing. So really its not collant vs water you really need to worry about. At least not with the Mayhems products in my experience. Its the dyes you add to it. Using plain clear/white coolant is safe, in some cases could be better than plain water, and is just easier to use since you don't need to figure out how much anti-corrosive and algecide to add to the loop. The coolant mixes take care of that. That also means do NOT add any other additives or kill coils to coolant based loops unless you know for sure it already doesn't have something in it. You'll risk degradation and could actually cause growth and corrosion. The issue with longevity really comes down to the dye you use. I guess Mayhems has some non-staining dyes now. The other alternative is just to use a colored tubing.

Dyes don't cause gunk to build up in loops. Dyes get blamed because it "dyes" the contaminants that are actually causing the build up making it look like the dye is to blame. Plasticizer leaching from poor quality soft tubing is what causes the most common complaints of gunk buildup. Its the same reason why some soft tubing appears to be stained from dye. The plasticizer that begins to leech from the tube is exposed to dye and retains the color. If you are using quality tubing like Advanced LRT or Mayhems and are still seeing plasticizer, it is because your fluid temps are too high in your loop. Try to keep your fluid temps below 45C. High fluid temps accelerate the rate that plasticizer leaches and clouds tubing. Mayhems actually conducted a test to verify these things and those were his results. I'll see if I can find the thread.
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post #13833 of 15594
Quote:
Originally Posted by The EX1 View Post

Dyes don't cause gunk to build up in loops. Dyes get blamed because it "dyes" the contaminants that are actually causing the build up making it look like the dye is to blame. Plasticizer leaching from poor quality soft tubing is what causes the most common complaints of gunk buildup. Its the same reason why some soft tubing appears to be stained from dye. The plasticizer that begins to leech from the tube is exposed to dye and retains the color. If you are using quality tubing like Advanced LRT or Mayhems and are still seeing plasticizer, it is because your fluid temps are too high in your loop. Try to keep your fluid temps below 45C. High fluid temps accelerate the rate that plasticizer leaches and clouds tubing. Mayhems actually conducted a test to verify these things and those were his results. I'll see if I can find the thread.


When I think about it you are probably right. Although it may have been junk in the rad. Dont recall ever letting coolant get that hot. But based on my PPCs invoices it turns out I may have been using advanced LRT at the time and XT-1 and Blue Dye. For whatever reason the coolant went from a really vivid blue to a murky green. Its possible I either loaded it up with far too much dye, did not flush the rad enough as this was before Blitz existed or at least I knew about it (2013), or I improperly mixed the concentrate. Whatever happened it clogged up my blocks and stained the tubes and res. I switched to Pastel White premix and Blitzing for every flush. Had not had an issue since. Sorry for the probably contradicting info but my memory of the chain of events is a bit off. All I know is it was slightly rocky from the start but it really may have been bad res prep.

Pick your dye carefully though and be prepared to stick with that color. Took two cycles of pastel before it stopped getting blue tint from what I assume was dye stuck in the rads. I think Blitz helps a ton to eliminate that but I was only running the dye for maybe a bit under 2 years.

My the LRT does not appear to leech, but after 8-12 months of use the tubing does start to shift to a yellow color. Not noticeable until I take the loop apart for cleaning. Not sure if this contributed to my initial gunk problem or not.
Edited by devsfan1830 - 7/13/16 at 10:18am
post #13834 of 15594
Quote:
Originally Posted by devsfan1830 View Post

When I think about it you are probably right. Although it may have been junk in the rad. Dont recall ever letting coolant get that hot. But based on my PPCs invoices it turns out I may have been using advanced LRT at the time and XT-1 and Blue Dye. For whatever reason the coolant went from a really vivid blue to a murky green. Its possible I either loaded it up with far too much dye, did not flush the rad enough as this was before Blitz existed or at least I knew about it (2013), or I improperly mixed the concentrate. Whatever happened it clogged up my blocks and stained the tubes and res. I switched to Pastel White premix and Blitzing for every flush. Had not had an issue since. Sorry for the probably contradicting info but my memory of the chain of events is a bit off. All I know is it was slightly rocky from the start but it really may have been bad res prep.

Pick your dye carefully though and be prepared to stick with that color. Took two cycles of pastel before it stopped getting blue tint from what I assume was dye stuck in the rads. I think Blitz helps a ton to eliminate that but I was only running the dye for maybe a bit under 2 years.

My the LRT does not appear to leech, but after 8-12 months of use the tubing does start to shift to a yellow color. Not noticeable until I take the loop apart for cleaning. Not sure if this contributed to my initial gunk problem or not.

quote from Mayhems website:

XT1 is a Ethylene based coolant, and is not compatible with PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Flexible Tubing"
post #13835 of 15594
Quote:
Originally Posted by muzammil84 View Post

quote from Mayhems website:

XT1 is a Ethylene based coolant, and is not compatible with PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Flexible Tubing"


and THAT would explain that. LOL.
post #13836 of 15594
Quote:
Originally Posted by atomicus View Post

Haha, yeah I think maybe too much... my ambition is writing cheques my ability may not be able to cash lol! wink.gif
Just fyi, xt-1 is glycol based and shouldn't be used with petg. Is fine with acrylic/glass but not petg. X-1 and all other mayhem's coolants are fine with petg afaik.
Quote:
Originally Posted by viperguy212 View Post

Hey all,

I have a quick question concerning the bltiz kit...

I'm planning to put my build together this weekend but wanted to clean out the rads today or tomorrow to save some time. Any harm in running part 1 through the rads now then completing things with part 2 this weekend (say like 3-4 days)?

Thanks!
If i remember correctly part 2 should be done right after part 1 because it neutralizes the acids from part 1. Some one asked a similar question a few weeks ago, i put the reps response below. Only difference was he was planning on waiting weeks but still.

Post 13717 No its best to run part one then dilute down part two with warm water (1/2 the normal documented ratio) and nutrilze the acid afterwards. Do not do a acid flush then leave it, it may do more harm than good.
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post #13837 of 15594
So, I noticed this thing in my res after nearly 10 months use of Mayhems Pastel While mixed with Non Stan Blue.



I will be tearing down this system next month, as I cant afford it now. I thought that pastel would inhibit algae growth. I doubt its EK pump pad that got "stuck" to the plexi.
post #13838 of 15594
I guarantee you that what you see is not an algae, algae will not develop in that scale that fast and wouldn't be that obvious, either something was in your loop and just now got free or its plasticizer presuming you are on soft tubing, or something else
Edited by NewUser16 - 7/16/16 at 7:25am
post #13839 of 15594
Does anyone use the Mayhems X1 UV Clear Blue... how long does it actually last in respect to the UV effect? I have seen some reports of it fading rather quickly, but I wasn't clear if that was due to user error (not cleaning rads before use etc)?
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post #13840 of 15594
Is EK-Ekoolant EVO CLEAR (concentrate 100mL) the same as any of mayhems coolants. Switching to Mayhems Red Pastel coolant in a few days after I'm sure the loop is solid.

Also, I want the blood red pastel so should I try to mix my own or can I buy it premix?
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