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post #13871 of 15601
There shouldn't be nickel plating inside radiators...period, blitz# 1 will eat it out, its for copper radiators, if you referring to plugs, use the one without plating or used them then replace with new ones.
After that run Blitz# 2 to neutralize acid and clean your whole system, it's very effective product. thumb.gif
Edited by NewUser16 - 7/31/16 at 2:16pm
post #13872 of 15601
Quote:
Originally Posted by NewUser16 View Post

There shouldn't be nickel plating inside radiators...period, blitz# 1 will eat it out, its for copper radiators, if you referring to plugs, use the one without plating or used them then replace with new ones.
After that run Blitz# 2 to neutralize acid and clean your whole system, it's very effective product. thumb.gif

I know Blitz #1 is for copper radiators only. My question is if Blitz Part #2 is safe to run with nickel plated waterblocks, specifically EKWB ones. On that same note, can you run part #1 by itself?
post #13873 of 15601
Quote:
Originally Posted by carlouws View Post

I know Blitz #1 is for copper radiators only. My question is if Blitz Part #2 is safe to run with nickel plated waterblocks, specifically EKWB ones. On that same note, can you run part #1 by itself?

Hi.

Part 2 is safe for Nickel plated blocks. I used it on both of my R9 290 EKWB nickel plated. Part 2 is just for cleaning residual crap inside your loop and neutralise the pH levels, such that anything that may contaminate your loop and affect it's pH levels is now either gone or neutralised.

Part 1 is not for running in your loop. It will ruin your loop. This is only to clean out the crap from the manufacturing process out of radiators. If I'm not mistaken, it's based on acid, therefore use with caution.
Edited by Gil80 - 8/4/16 at 5:34pm
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post #13874 of 15601
Quote:
I know Blitz #1 is for copper radiators only. My question is if Blitz Part # 2 is safe to run with nickel plated waterblocks, specifically EKWB ones. On that same note, can you run part #1 by itself?

Sorry I gave you quick answer not realizing you were asking whether part# 2 can be used on nickel plated blocks....Gil80 answered that correctly, so no reason for me to rapid that, but as far is
Quote:
can you run part #1 by itself?
I'm not sure what you mean on itself, if you mean run part 1 on your rads and skipping part 2 afterwards, I'm only answering if that's what you referring to....yes you can, not advisable but you can, you would need to use DI and flash it few extra times to make sure that the acid solution is gone out of your rads.
If that's not what you referring to, you need to make a bit more clear on your question.


Btw. I've used blitz part 2 twice in the past 2 years on 3 of my Heatkiller nickel plated GPUs and CPU blocks and it's a brilliant cleaner.

If you want your system to run truly on its best use it annually, any gunk that might be accumulating in your system, blocks or tubing will get cleaned without any need on taking your blocks apart.

I'm using annually to keep my system it tip top shape and I ove it.
Edited by NewUser16 - 7/31/16 at 8:20pm
post #13875 of 15601
Hey everyone. I've been out of the loop for a while. I'm looking to move away from X1 Oil Black and planning to go back to clear. What do you guys think, xt-1 or x1 clear? I'll be using blitz part 2 before filling up if that makes a difference.
post #13876 of 15601
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ovrclck View Post

Hey everyone. I've been out of the loop for a while. I'm looking to move away from X1 Oil Black and planning to go back to clear. What do you guys think, xt-1 or x1 clear? I'll be using blitz part 2 before filling up if that makes a difference.
depends on what tubing you are using. xt-1 is glycol based so PETG will have issues with it. I THINK primochill advanced LRT is also not to be used with glycol but you'd have to double check that. x1 is glycerin based I believe and should be compatible with anything.
I'm going completely off memory so please check before making a decision thumb.gif
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post #13877 of 15601
Quote:
Originally Posted by 0ldChicken View Post

depends on what tubing you are using. xt-1 is glycol based so PETG will have issues with it. I THINK primochill advanced LRT is also not to be used with glycol but you'd have to double check that. x1 is glycerin based I believe and should be compatible with anything.
I'm going completely off memory so please check before making a decision thumb.gif

Looks like I'm good either way. Acrylic with Mayhems tubing. Thanks.
post #13878 of 15601
Hey folks, anyone knows, what's the typical shelf life of Mayhem's X1 concentrate?

I have a bottle from around a year ago - is it still OK to use it?

Mayhem's site says "Can be stored for up to 3 years (in a cool dry environment)" - I stored it in a cabinet, where it is dark most of the time, but not always cool and dry.
post #13879 of 15601
Quote:
Originally Posted by cmpxchg8b View Post

Hey folks, anyone knows, what's the typical shelf life of Mayhem's X1 concentrate?

I have a bottle from around a year ago - is it still OK to use it?

Mayhem's site says "Can be stored for up to 3 years (in a cool dry environment)" - I stored it in a cabinet, where it is dark most of the time, but not always cool and dry.

Look for the Manufacturer date on the side of the bottle. Small print.





TCO
Edited by TheCautiousOne - 8/3/16 at 3:26pm
     
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post #13880 of 15601
Quote:
Mayhem's site says "Can be stored for up to 3 years (in a cool dry environment)" - I stored it in a cabinet, where it is dark most of the time, but not always cool and dry.

I can confirm 3 years in cold dark place. What Mayhems means cold dark and dry is that you don't keep it in a cabinet e.g. bathroom where there is always stem from showers, but if you keep it in normal room temperature as long as I said its not wet it would be fine I was asking him directly the same question while ago.
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