Originally Posted by NewUser16
I'm not a chemist so I don't know exactly what's in norprene but I do know it's a superior type of synthetic rubber compared to EPDM, and both are used in industrial applications.
RE: biocide; so you're saying Mayhems' claims of XT-1 "containing all the inhibitors and biocides you need" is wrong? or did I get a bad batch? or the mix ratio is wrong? hmm, date on bottle says 27.5.2015 and was used around december 2015. not sure if that's a manufacture date or a use-by date.
No I'm not saying you got bad batch of XT-1, but what I'm saying is that in combination with anything in your loop e.g. it could be to do with metals or tubing , which brings me to saying again... even the highest quality soft tubing do leach gunk, you cannot get around that..........PERIOD so It could be that.
When comes to premixed liquids, occasionally they do break down prematurely so it could have went that way and that's why I said I like to make my own liquid so occasionally I can test the PH and if biocide still works and add more if needed.
Do more digging to pinpoint the issue or you could end up again with the same thing.
Hmm, thanks for the info.
RE: Tubing: I believe the tubing I'm using is Tygon R6012 Norprene (Spare norprene tubing from Swiftech from a AIO kit I no longer use.) The sizing seems to match up with the specs, but Swifteh of course wouldn't tell me their supplier. I did notice some of it had a slight scrape on the side like they removed a thin layer to get rid of any brand printed on it. If it's Tygon R6012 then it's supposed to be plasticizer free and not leach, but with Swiftech's latest track record of cutting corners I wouldn't be surprised if they used some cheaper stuff. I'm also using some older Swiftech 3/8" x 1/2" Norprene in some tight areas (this one has "Norprene" printed on it every few feet).
If tubing might be my issue (perhaps copper oxidation leaching into cheap tubing which then leaches onto fittings?) I have a roll of EK-ZMT (EPDM) tubing I could try, but it's VERY stiff and is even more difficult to screw compression cuffs on.
The only issues I'm aware of with Norprene/EPDM is the initial black debris when it's new, it must be thoroughly flushed or blocks can get clogged with black rubber particles. But not all Norprene/EPDM are made equally, of course.
RE: Coolant/liquids: I don't have a PH tester but I suppose I could get one. What PH would I be aiming for? XT-1 says it has PH balancers, but I assume that changes over time. I ran distilled and PT Nuke for awhile in a copper/brass/chrome loop but ended up with white residue on the chrome fittings. Ths time I have nickel plated stuff I need to protect and EG seemed better than PG. I think Mayhems XT-1 is pretty much the same as the X1 except the X1 is PG whereas he XT-1 is EG, but they market it for sub-zero. From experience with car antifreeze, EG based always lasts longer before breaking down but I'm not sure if Mayhems X1 has anything special added compared to the XT-1.
Anyways, update on the dirty fittings:
After cleaning/scrubbing the nickel plated EK-ACF fittings there's no longer any green residue but some signs of tarnishing (hopefully not corrosion). Reservoir has some minor amounts of white looking powder visible on the bottom POM/Delrin base. I don't think this is supposed to happen after just 7-8 months.
Not entirely sure what to try here though, I'll definitely be flushing my stuff with PT Nuke and maybe another flush of Primochill SysPrep (no idea if this even does anything to be honest), and then a few flushes with distilled or DI water before reassembling with coolant. Also will be replacing my older Swiftech radiator which could have had some microbial growth in air pockets. (It's really difficult to bleed top radiators with tight tubing runs where you can't turn the entire case upside down. Tilting and rocking can only do so much.) And I'm also considering swapping all my tubing to EK-ZMT, and maybe upping the mix ratio of XT-1 to 15%Edited by s74r1 - 8/5/16 at 2:52am