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post #13881 of 15604
Does anyone know what can make the White Extreme Pastel to turn grey?
Build has been up for about 7 months, cleaned with the basic kit before use.

Can the use of external radiator with quick disconnects be the issue? Something got in the loop through the quick disconnects when I used them?
post #13882 of 15604
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheCautiousOne View Post

Look for the Manufacturer date on the side of the bottle. Small print.

It says 06.02.2015, so it is 1.5 years old which definitely is within the advertised window of 3 years shelf life. I was just wondering how safe it is to still use it after room temperature and humidity storage.
Quote:
Originally Posted by NewUser16 View Post

I can confirm 3 years in cold dark place. What Mayhems means cold dark and dry is that you don't keep it in a cabinet e.g. bathroom where there is always stem from showers, but if you keep it in normal room temperature as long as I said its not wet it would be fine I was asking him directly the same question while ago.

OK, that's probably as definitive as it gets.
post #13883 of 15604
Quote:
Originally Posted by cmpxchg8b View Post

It says 06.02.2015, so it is 1.5 years old which definitely is within the advertised window of 3 years shelf life. I was just wondering how safe it is to still use it after room temperature and humidity storage.
OK, that's probably as definitive as it gets.

You might want to run it through a coffee filter first, just to make sure there's nothing to clog up your loop in there.
post #13884 of 15604
Recently disassembled my loop and found some nasty looking green stuff on my EK-ACF nickel plated fittings. Wondering if my Mayhems XT-1 is insufficient or my mix ratio was wrong or maybe be something else.









Loop details:
  • Metals: Brass, Copper, Nickel plating, (possibly some chrome), black paint from some Bitspower/EK/Koolance fittings.
  • Tubing: Norprene rubber tubing (plasticizer free), pretty well rinsed in a outside loop before put into operation.
  • Coolant: Mayhems Ultra Pure H2O with Mayhems X-1 Clear (10% mix ratio)
  • Avg coolant temp: 30c-42c (usually 40 under load)
  • Radiators: 1x Swiftech MCR240-QP, 1x Black Ice Nemesis L-Series 280
  • Waterblocks: Swiftech Apogee XL (copper+delrin/pom), 1x Aquacomputer Kryographics nickel plated GPU block
  • Pump: Swiftech MCP655 (Laing D5) w/ "Koolance PMP-450/S - Acetal" body/top.
  • Reservoir: "Bitspower Water Tank Z-Multi 150 - POM" w/ red aqua pipe. (noticed some green stuff at the top where it drips down a bit into the tank)
  • Fittings: Mostly EK-ACF compression fittings (nickel plated), some other mixed Bitspower black, bitspower nickel or chrome.
  • Angled fittings: Mostly Bitspower, some EK and Koolance mixed in (all in black).
  • Loop duration: Approximately 8 months

Additional info:
  • The green stuff is most apparent on fittings that coolant was flowing against (intake side of tube).
  • Radiators were cleaned with vinegar and hot water, thoroughly rinsed, coolant was ran through it for about a week and changed again just to be sure.
  • Unable to fully bleed ALL the air bubbles from radiators due to their orientation but most of it was out.
  • The Swiftech radiator was previously run in a dirty loop with micro-organism growth and some corrosion, but was thoroughly cleaned (or so I thought?).
  • No visible cloudiness in reservoir or anything in the GPU block, though it's hard to see through semi-transparent GPU block acrylic. Still haven't looked inside CPU block yet but that was cleaned before loop was put into use to prevent any potential contamination.
  • No silver in the loop.

Hypotheses?:
  • Possibly oxidation from air pockets in brass radiators leaching into coolant?
  • Chipped/damaged nickel from the EK-ACF? (the hex key to screw them in scratches it a bit)
  • Something with the Bitspower red water pipe? The top is exposed to air at the top of the tank pushing coolant downward (but still sealed inside).
  • Dirty Swiftech radiator still dirty?

Other thoughts:
  • Since I'm redoing my loop I'll be replacing the red bitspower aqua pipe with the stock nickel or chromed one and replacing the Swiftech radiator, but this looks like it'll take a major cleaning.

Edited by s74r1 - 8/4/16 at 12:09pm
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post #13885 of 15604
Quote:
Originally Posted by s74r1 View Post

Recently disassembled my loop and found some nasty looking green stuff on my EK-ACF nickel plated fittings. Wondering if my Mayhems XT-1 is insufficient or my mix ratio was wrong of it it might be something else.
Can you leave some of the coolant to dry? Just to see if its the coolant it self or something else.
post #13886 of 15604
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chiobe View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by s74r1 View Post

Recently disassembled my loop and found some nasty looking green stuff on my EK-ACF nickel plated fittings. Wondering if my Mayhems XT-1 is insufficient or my mix ratio was wrong of it it might be something else.
Can you leave some of the coolant to dry? Just to see if its the coolant it self or something else.

It's clear coolant. shouldn't be green, no? Or am i misunderstanding you.

Edit: also yes I left some in a bag without rinsing that I can check.
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post #13887 of 15604
There is few things to consider. Any flexible tubing that is "plasticizer free" I wouldn't hold my breath, there is no such thing, any tubing that is soft requires chemical to keep the tubing from cracking and stay flexible for as long as it can so eventually it will leach gunk ......similar philosophy where comes to non conductive liquid, no such thing, it become conductive as soon as it gets in your loop.

Another thing is it could be some sort of algae developed if you have any chrome in your loop it doesn't work well with otter metals actually chrome, not to be mistaking with silver or nickle promotes algee.

You might have your XT-1 out of date when comes to biocide I usually get Mayhems Bocide Extreme and add 5 drops into 4L of Di no more than that and it works magic.
Edited by NewUser16 - 8/4/16 at 10:38am
post #13888 of 15604
Quote:
Originally Posted by NewUser16 View Post

There is few things to consider. Any flexible tubing that is "plasticizer free" I wouldn't hold my breath, there is no such thing, any tubing that is soft requires chemical to keep the tubing from cracking and stay flexible for as long as it can so eventually it will leach gunk ......similar philosophy where comes to non conductive liquid, no such thing, it become conductive as soon as it gets in your loop.

Another thing is it could be some sort of algae developed if you have any chrome in your loop it doesn't work well with otter metals actually chrome, not to be mistaking with silver or nickle promotes algee.

You might have your XT-1 out of date when comes to biocide I usually get Mayhems Bocide Extreme and add 5 drops into 4L of Di no more than that and it works magic.

I'm not a chemist so I don't know exactly what's in norprene but I do know it's a superior type of synthetic rubber compared to EPDM, and both are used in industrial applications.

RE: biocide; so you're saying Mayhems' claims of XT-1 "containing all the inhibitors and biocides you need" is wrong? or did I get a bad batch? or the mix ratio is wrong? hmm, date on bottle says 27.5.2015 and was used around december 2015. not sure if that's a manufacture date or a use-by date.
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Cygni
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post #13889 of 15604
Quote:
I'm not a chemist so I don't know exactly what's in norprene but I do know it's a superior type of synthetic rubber compared to EPDM, and both are used in industrial applications.

RE: biocide; so you're saying Mayhems' claims of XT-1 "containing all the inhibitors and biocides you need" is wrong? or did I get a bad batch? or the mix ratio is wrong? hmm, date on bottle says 27.5.2015 and was used around december 2015. not sure if that's a manufacture date or a use-by date.

No I'm not saying you got bad batch of XT-1, but what I'm saying is that in combination with anything in your loop e.g. it could be to do with metals or tubing , which brings me to saying again... even the highest quality soft tubing do leach gunk, you cannot get around that..........PERIOD so It could be that.

When comes to premixed liquids, occasionally they do break down prematurely so it could have went that way and that's why I said I like to make my own liquid so occasionally I can test the PH and if biocide still works and add more if needed.

Do more digging to pinpoint the issue or you could end up again with the same thing.
Edited by NewUser16 - 8/4/16 at 1:36pm
post #13890 of 15604
Quote:
Originally Posted by NewUser16 View Post

Quote:
I'm not a chemist so I don't know exactly what's in norprene but I do know it's a superior type of synthetic rubber compared to EPDM, and both are used in industrial applications.

RE: biocide; so you're saying Mayhems' claims of XT-1 "containing all the inhibitors and biocides you need" is wrong? or did I get a bad batch? or the mix ratio is wrong? hmm, date on bottle says 27.5.2015 and was used around december 2015. not sure if that's a manufacture date or a use-by date.

No I'm not saying you got bad batch of XT-1, but what I'm saying is that in combination with anything in your loop e.g. it could be to do with metals or tubing , which brings me to saying again... even the highest quality soft tubing do leach gunk, you cannot get around that..........PERIOD so It could be that.

When comes to premixed liquids, occasionally they do break down prematurely so it could have went that way and that's why I said I like to make my own liquid so occasionally I can test the PH and if biocide still works and add more if needed.

Do more digging to pinpoint the issue or you could end up again with the same thing.

Hmm, thanks for the info.

RE: Tubing: I believe the tubing I'm using is Tygon R6012 Norprene (Spare norprene tubing from Swiftech from a AIO kit I no longer use.) The sizing seems to match up with the specs, but Swifteh of course wouldn't tell me their supplier. I did notice some of it had a slight scrape on the side like they removed a thin layer to get rid of any brand printed on it. If it's Tygon R6012 then it's supposed to be plasticizer free and not leach, but with Swiftech's latest track record of cutting corners I wouldn't be surprised if they used some cheaper stuff. I'm also using some older Swiftech 3/8" x 1/2" Norprene in some tight areas (this one has "Norprene" printed on it every few feet).
If tubing might be my issue (perhaps copper oxidation leaching into cheap tubing which then leaches onto fittings?) I have a roll of EK-ZMT (EPDM) tubing I could try, but it's VERY stiff and is even more difficult to screw compression cuffs on.
The only issues I'm aware of with Norprene/EPDM is the initial black debris when it's new, it must be thoroughly flushed or blocks can get clogged with black rubber particles. But not all Norprene/EPDM are made equally, of course.

RE: Coolant/liquids: I don't have a PH tester but I suppose I could get one. What PH would I be aiming for? XT-1 says it has PH balancers, but I assume that changes over time. I ran distilled and PT Nuke for awhile in a copper/brass/chrome loop but ended up with white residue on the chrome fittings. Ths time I have nickel plated stuff I need to protect and EG seemed better than PG. I think Mayhems XT-1 is pretty much the same as the X1 except the X1 is PG whereas he XT-1 is EG, but they market it for sub-zero. From experience with car antifreeze, EG based always lasts longer before breaking down but I'm not sure if Mayhems X1 has anything special added compared to the XT-1.

Anyways, update on the dirty fittings:
After cleaning/scrubbing the nickel plated EK-ACF fittings there's no longer any green residue but some signs of tarnishing (hopefully not corrosion). Reservoir has some minor amounts of white looking powder visible on the bottom POM/Delrin base. I don't think this is supposed to happen after just 7-8 months.

Not entirely sure what to try here though, I'll definitely be flushing my stuff with PT Nuke and maybe another flush of Primochill SysPrep (no idea if this even does anything to be honest), and then a few flushes with distilled or DI water before reassembling with coolant. Also will be replacing my older Swiftech radiator which could have had some microbial growth in air pockets. (It's really difficult to bleed top radiators with tight tubing runs where you can't turn the entire case upside down. Tilting and rocking can only do so much.) And I'm also considering swapping all my tubing to EK-ZMT, and maybe upping the mix ratio of XT-1 to 15%
Edited by s74r1 - 8/5/16 at 2:52am
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Cygni
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