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Mayhems users club - Page 1479

post #14781 of 14946
Quote:
hi, i have different experiences, i rather use petg than acrylic, it will break easier and is hard to bend and cut. a mess

It's individuals preference and motivation. I'm no genius in tub bending nor cutting let alone dealing with acrylic and I admit I wasted few good pieces of beautiful black tubing, but once you get use to it and are aware with when you might run into difficult moments e.g. overheat of tubing and potential bubbling, tub it's not preheated enough and premature attempts of bending causing to ripple or just the complexity of your tube routing can be frustrating, but once you get the hang of it there is nothing difficult about it, but reword is great.

The fact is that acrylic will last your for years with any liquid and does not absorb any liquid, unlike PETG does and will not last that long.

As far is cracking? it does not crack, unless you drop it, oppose to PETG dries out, believe it or not and that's where the restrictions and limitations of liquid choices comes from.

I have very big 2 loop system with acrylic tubing even in the basement to keep it clean, yes it took me a while to finish it, but it's been 2-3 years now, it's perfect and again I would personally never chose PETG, but that's me.


Btw. I'm not DazMode fan, but his video regarding PETG and his research "white sheet" of compatible liquids is very informative I have to give him that, he did good job thumb.gif
Edited by NewUser16 - 4/20/17 at 11:58am
post #14782 of 14946
Can I use mayhems blitz on nickel plated blocks?

My block already has flaking occurring, and so I don't really care if the rest of the nickel is stripped. In fact I think I'd prefer stripping the rest of the nickel off, and just using it as a copper block (the inside of the block can't be seen anyway as the top isn't clear)
post #14783 of 14946
Quote:
Can I use mayhems blitz on nickel plated blocks?

My block already has flaking occurring, and so I don't really care if the rest of the nickel is stripped. In fact I think I'd prefer stripping the rest of the nickel off, and just using it as a copper block (the inside of the block can't be seen anyway as the top isn't clear)

I assume you mean Blitz #2

All my blocks are nickel plated (3x Titan Black, M/B, VRM, CPU) and I use Blitz #2 exclusively, every 14- 16 months cleans nicely, so you be safe, but if you have plating peeling off already I wouldn't use Blitz,#2 not yet.

I normally don't recommend taking any blocks apart, unless there is obvious issue(s) I never did, but in your case you might do all that work for nothing, some of that plating might get stock in your line, it will clog your block(s), especially CPU, than you will have to take all apart and deal with it.

I would take everything apart now, especially block that is peeling off and take all the plating off, use water base sandpaper and clean it off , put it back together and blitz your system afterwards, it will save you energy and headache and you be fine for long while again.
Edited by NewUser16 - 4/20/17 at 6:47pm
post #14784 of 14946
Quote:
Originally Posted by NewUser16 View Post


I would take everything apart now, especially block that is peeling off and take all the plating off, use water base sandpaper and clean it off , put it back together and blitz your system afterwards, it will save you energy and headache and you be fine for long while again.

I'm talking about a cpu block here, there's no way I can sand in between the channels.

Last time I opened it up it had minor flaking, but that was years ago. I'd assume it'll have flaked significantly by now. Could I use an acidic solution to remove the rest of the nickel? Lemon juice, vinegar etc?
post #14785 of 14946
Quote:
I'm talking about a cpu block here, there's no way I can sand in between the channels.

Last time I opened it up it had minor flaking, but that was years ago. I'd assume it'll have flaked significantly by now. Could I use an acidic solution to remove the rest of the nickel? Lemon juice, vinegar etc?

I meant send it where you can and micro channels you usually clean with toot brash as much as you can to ensure there is no remaining flakes.

Wouldn't opening CPU and visual inspection make you feel better and to be sure there is none flakes in there rather than guessing after using any cleaner, even Acid?

I know Acid solution is good for rads, how that would work on your CPU...can't tell, sorry. biggrin.gif
post #14786 of 14946
Quote:
Originally Posted by 0ldChicken View Post

yes but no solution. I just gave up and keep using aurora xD
Aurora looks amazing for showcase computers, it lost color in mine faster than I hoped.
I will post a ticket to support and see if they will answer the size of nanoparticles so I can find out if the filter will work. I really want to get the aurora out!
I asked the person I originally quoted for help through message but he hasn't logged in for weeks.
Edited by imLagging - 4/21/17 at 4:16am
post #14787 of 14946
Thread Starter 
Support cannot answer your question on size of nano particles as they are diffrent sizes from 10 nm up to 500nm with some just sub Micron to aid in the effect.

Do not use filters with Aurora.
Edited by Mayhem - 4/21/17 at 4:46am
post #14788 of 14946
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mayhem View Post

Support cannot answer your question on size of nano particles as they are diffrent sizes from 10 nm up to 500nm with some just sub Micron to aid in the effect.

Do not use filters with Aurora.
You just answered the question tongue.gif , thanks
10nm-500nm is enough for me to try the filter loop. I won't mind a few specs of sub micron particles that I won't see.

The filter will be to remove aurora. System similar to this http://www.overclock.net/t/1360901/cleaning-and-flushing-radiators-with-water-filter but with a 0.01 micron filter. I just can't leave rads flushing for hours hoping it gets removed, would rather run a closed loop with 1000-2000lph pump to make sure I can move the particles out of radiators and trapped into the filter.
Edited by imLagging - 4/21/17 at 5:33am
post #14789 of 14946

If I want to go with a system that uses UV, would I just need a UV-reactive coolant? Or do I need a UV-reactive tube as well? And what UV lights do I need to get? Do all of the computer UV lights seem to be purple in color?

post #14790 of 14946
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mayhem View Post

Support cannot answer your question on size of nano particles as they are diffrent sizes from 10 nm up to 500nm with some just sub Micron to aid in the effect.

Do not use filters with Aurora.

So is there anyway to get rid of it all? Will the Blitz kit work?
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