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post #14791 of 14947
Quote:
Originally Posted by kevindd992002 View Post

If I want to go with a system that uses UV, would I just need a UV-reactive coolant? Or do I need a UV-reactive tube as well? And what UV lights do I need to get? Do all of the computer UV lights seem to be purple in color?

Yeah you only need UV reactive dye/coolant OR UV reactive tubing. You don't need both.

UV is ultra violet light, it's actually invisible to the human eye. however, when you buy UV lights, some of the light they emit is just below the ultra violet spectrum and is a visible violet. That's why they're all purple.

For PC, you can get either UV LED or UV cold cathode. There are a lot of reports that say the LEDs basically destroy the UV reactive properties of the dye/tubing and tend to fade things. UV cold cathode are much better in this regard, and your UV reactive components will stay UV reactive for much longer.

However, cold cathodes require a little inverter - it'll come with the cathode of course, but it just means you'll have to fit a little box somewhere in the case. Not a huge issue.
post #14792 of 14947
Quote:
Originally Posted by mixsetup View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mayhem View Post

Support cannot answer your question on size of nano particles as they are diffrent sizes from 10 nm up to 500nm with some just sub Micron to aid in the effect.

Do not use filters with Aurora.

So is there anyway to get rid of it all? Will the Blitz kit work?

Blitz kit is your best bet. I had a whole bottle of aurora booster in my loop and blitz took care of it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by kevindd992002 View Post

If I want to go with a system that uses UV, would I just need a UV-reactive coolant? Or do I need a UV-reactive tube as well? And what UV lights do I need to get? Do all of the computer UV lights seem to be purple in color?

Cathodes and Darkside LED strips work the best. The cablemods widebeam strips are pretty good as well. I'm using x1 uv green coolant and it is uv reactive, but I added a bunch of the laser green uv dye to get it to glow a lot better. The uv effect will fade over time so you may want to get a bottle of uv dye for whichever color you're going for.
Edited by Deedaz - 4/21/17 at 5:50pm
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post #14793 of 14947
Quote:
Originally Posted by mixsetup View Post

So is there anyway to get rid of it all? Will the Blitz kit work?
Blitz kit works well if you can flush out radiators for long period of time like 30min-1hr++.
Getting part 2 out really requires extensive flushing to get all residue out. I have a few blitz kits left over and I can tell you that 10 galllons of DI won't remove it from multiple rads. If my tap water wasn't so garbage I would buy some fittings and create an adapter to plug into radiators. I do want the closed loop because it will work for future flushes, I also can avoid blitz part 2 hassle.
post #14794 of 14947
Thanks I will try the blitz kit. 10 gallons think that's like 37 liters wow, I'm going to need a lot of bottles of water.

A bloke on Youtube who used the Aurora said he

"Hi, yes it leaves a trace of the pearlescent in the loop on pretty much every surface. It breaks down and cleans easily with isopropanol, I use a dilution mix of about 10% for cleaning this coolant out"

That he said 10% with DI water, need to find where to buy some.

I'll give them both a go until it is gone thanks.

Maybe then buy acrylic tubes instead of PETG so I have more of a choice of what coolant I can use like the XT-1 I have sitting here.
Edited by mixsetup - 4/21/17 at 7:27pm
post #14795 of 14947
Quote:
Originally Posted by mixsetup View Post

Thanks I will try the blitz kit. 10 gallons think that's like 37 liters wow, I'm going to need a lot of bottles of water.

A bloke on Youtube who used the Aurora said he

"Hi, yes it leaves a trace of the pearlescent in the loop on pretty much every surface. It breaks down and cleans easily with isopropanol, I use a dilution mix of about 10% for cleaning this coolant out"

That he said 10% with DI water, need to find where to buy some.

I'll give them both a go until it is gone thanks.

Maybe then buy acrylic tubes instead of PETG so I have more of a choice of what coolant I can use like the XT-1 I have sitting here.
Good luck with yours! Remember flushing with a closed loop it just recirculates any remnant and residue. Also regular flushes with no pressure doesn't seem to help removing either aurora particles or blitz part2.
I believe this is why the video instructs to flush with the tap method and from personal experience I see why it's recommended. I guess difficulty varies in how easy a loop is to take apart and how many blocks or radiators are involved.
post #14796 of 14947
Quote:
Originally Posted by milkguru View Post


Yeah you only need UV reactive dye/coolant OR UV reactive tubing. You don't need both.

UV is ultra violet light, it's actually invisible to the human eye. however, when you buy UV lights, some of the light they emit is just below the ultra violet spectrum and is a visible violet. That's why they're all purple.

For PC, you can get either UV LED or UV cold cathode. There are a lot of reports that say the LEDs basically destroy the UV reactive properties of the dye/tubing and tend to fade things. UV cold cathode are much better in this regard, and your UV reactive components will stay UV reactive for much longer.

However, cold cathodes require a little inverter - it'll come with the cathode of course, but it just means you'll have to fit a little box somewhere in the case. Not a huge issue.

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Deedaz View Post


Blitz kit is your best bet. I had a whole bottle of aurora booster in my loop and blitz took care of it.
Cathodes and Darkside LED strips work the best. The cablemods widebeam strips are pretty good as well. I'm using x1 uv green coolant and it is uv reactive, but I added a bunch of the laser green uv dye to get it to glow a lot better. The uv effect will fade over time so you may want to get a bottle of uv dye for whichever color you're going for.

 

Any particular Cold Cathode in mind? And how much do I need?

post #14797 of 14947
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mixsetup View Post

Thanks I will try the blitz kit. 10 gallons think that's like 37 liters wow, I'm going to need a lot of bottles of water.

A bloke on Youtube who used the Aurora said he

"Hi, yes it leaves a trace of the pearlescent in the loop on pretty much every surface. It breaks down and cleans easily with isopropanol, I use a dilution mix of about 10% for cleaning this coolant out"

That he said 10% with DI water, need to find where to buy some.

I'll give them both a go until it is gone thanks.

Maybe then buy acrylic tubes instead of PETG so I have more of a choice of what coolant I can use like the XT-1 I have sitting here.

DO NOT USE ALCHOL ON YOUR SYSTEM EVER Not only does it destroy rubber seals it can crack / fracture any type of plexi. Some youtube advise its just stupid with no thought about what issue they can have later on down the line.
Edited by Mayhem - 4/22/17 at 11:03am
post #14798 of 14947
Been checking the update of Aurora 3 linked here
https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/mayhems-aurora-3-pastel-2-tubing-michael-wood

Any news on the subject?
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post #14799 of 14947
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mayhem View Post


DO NOT USE ALCHOL ON YOUR SYSTEM EVER Not only does it destroy rubber seals it can crack / fracture any type of plexi. Some youtube advise its just stupid with no thought about what issue they can have later on down the line.

As a (previous ASE) mechanic I agree here completely (alot in water cooling a PC crosses over to autos as well)

     
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post #14800 of 14947
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mayhem View Post

DO NOT USE ALCHOL ON YOUR SYSTEM EVER Not only does it destroy rubber seals it can crack / fracture any type of plexi. Some youtube advise its just stupid with no thought about what issue they can have later on down the line.

Thanks I will stay away from it and just use your Blitz kit. Thanks
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