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Mayhems users club - Page 1488

post #14871 of 14949
Quote:
Originally Posted by cmpxchg8b View Post

The blue EK stickers. They are still there. You did not remove them. mad.gif
OK that's just my pet peeve but I thought I'd mention that in case you missed them. thumb.gif

haha ya I actually keep telling myself I would remove them the next time I take the side panel off. I still haven't done it yet and I added the sleeved 24pin a few days before that picture tonguesmiley.gif
post #14872 of 14949
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mayhem View Post

The Uv is very active in them bottles you wont need a dye.

Welcome to the nuke generation, next is Oblivion. smile.gif

Mick

How long do they stay UV reactive for?

Cause I've heard people say after a few weeks, the UV reactivity of their dye is basically gone.
post #14873 of 14949
Thread Starter 
The old dyes we used to use a few years back didn't last long, as long as your PH is stable it will last a while, We have also increased the amount used.
post #14874 of 14949
Quote:
Originally Posted by Revan654 View Post

Like I said I would hate it to go to waste. Also their some acrylic dust left over in the middle of the tubing. Since the tubing is already installed, It would be some what difficult getting the tubing out again.

I already ran blitz kits (Part 1 & Part 2) through my rads. I also have my own custom standalone flush system I used to clean out as much as possible from the radiators.
Quote:
Originally Posted by cloppy007 View Post

I've flushed my 2 rads one by one and then the whole loop with the bucket, pump and filter method. I can't almost believe how much crap was inside, even after 3 years and all the times I've cleaned these parts.

@Mayhem I'm now running part 2 through the loop, but I don't see bubbles inside. I did while mixing with deionised water and filling, but I recall that it used to produce lots of bubbles.

I put together a very similar setup to prepare my four new HWLabs SR2 multiports.

Filled with 80C hot water and did radiator dance.
Blitz Part A for 12 hours followed by flushing through with mains water to neutralise the acid. Used one of these pressure reducer doohickeys to avoid the mains pressure blowing out the rads:


Then I followed up with a DI water flush using a bucket, water filter and cheap pond pump setup, similar to you guys. Ran each rad for 8 hours. The amount of crap caught by the filter was amazing. The filter was white, now it's yellow. And I can see loads of macro sized particulates in the filter too.

Next step is to throw some more DI water into those rads, remove it again and check the PH levels.
post #14875 of 14949
Is anyone in the US selling XT-1 Nuke (UV Blue) other than ModMyMods? I was hoping Performance-PCs would stock it since I use prime shipping through their amazon store.

I've been using Mayhem's X1 for about 5 months and have seen a reduction in coolant flow rate from 0.92 gpm to 0.73 gpm which is due to crap in my loop from my two XSPC radiators even though i did clean them with hot water and vinegar when they were brand new. Probably should have done a much more thorough cleaning because I can see some stuff in the micro-fins of my Aquacomputer Kryographics block which is already a pretty restrictive block as it is. So i'm planning on taking things apart, doing some serious cleaning of my rads with phosphoric acid, and replacing my old X1 with the new XT-1 Nuke. I'd prefer to stay with UV reactive coolants since any leak is immediately visible thanks to my 4x 12" UV cold cathodes.
post #14876 of 14949
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wally West View Post

I have water discoloration after three weeks using mayhem red pastel. It was turning brownish. I cleaned everything with around 2L of vinegar and rinse everything with 4L of hot distilled water. I cleaned all the waterblocks with a toothbrush. took my almost a day to be certain everything was cleaned.

Yesterday the water was looking like this, which is kind of stupid after 3 weeks.

thats sad dude, im so worry to this happen to me, its been almost 3 months since i have been using mayhem sunset yellow pastel
Yukss´s rig
(15 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 3930k @4.6ghz HT 1.3 v EVGA X79 FTW gtx 1080 FE with EK waterblock 16gb Corsair Vengance 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingOS
OCZ vertex 3 240gb  Samsung 1tb Custom Watercooling Loop Windows 10 64bit 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Samsung 27" 2ms 1920*1080 G.SKILL km570 mx Corsair HX 850w Thermaltake core p5 
MouseMouse PadAudio
Saitek R.A.T 5 Razer Goliathus speed SoundBlaster x-fi Titaniun 
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Yukss´s rig
(15 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 3930k @4.6ghz HT 1.3 v EVGA X79 FTW gtx 1080 FE with EK waterblock 16gb Corsair Vengance 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingOS
OCZ vertex 3 240gb  Samsung 1tb Custom Watercooling Loop Windows 10 64bit 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Samsung 27" 2ms 1920*1080 G.SKILL km570 mx Corsair HX 850w Thermaltake core p5 
MouseMouse PadAudio
Saitek R.A.T 5 Razer Goliathus speed SoundBlaster x-fi Titaniun 
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post #14877 of 14949
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mayhem View Post

The old dyes we used to use a few years back didn't last long, as long as your PH is stable it will last a while, We have also increased the amount used.

While PH is a factor, wouldn't you agree that light, particularly longer wavelengths of UV and the visible light spectrum do far more to degrade (wash out) pigments, particularly red ones, than pretty much any other contributing factor? I ask this because at first glance, the color change in Wally West's coolant appears quite similar to changes I've seen in high light environments in my field of work (firearm and antique restoration) where I work with a variety of dyes and pigments ranging from aniline to highly UV resistant metal-complexed powdered dyes soluble in organic solvents or alcohols, and some organic dyes such as those derived from Alizarin. From my experience ALL red dyes\pigments experience an initial drop off much more so than any other color and continue to wash out at a rate higher than other colors. If i come across any dyes that run counter to this, ill make sure to let you guys at Mayhem's know.
post #14878 of 14949
Got the white extreme in!

post #14879 of 14949
Any pics of a system with the UV green Pastel here?

And how much Pastel should I be getting for a loop with a res (375ml capacity), pump, 1 x GTS 280mm rad, 1 x GTS 360mm rad, a GPU waterblock, and a CPU waterblock? Also, can 10 ft. of Ultra Clear tubing give me "extra room" in case I'm hit with noob stupidity while I'm assembling the loop?
Edited by kevindd992002 - 5/3/17 at 9:51pm
post #14880 of 14949
Quote:
Originally Posted by kevindd992002 View Post

Any pics of a system with the UV green Pastel here?

And how much Pastel should I be getting for a loop with a res (375ml capacity), pump, 1 x GTS 280mm rad, 1 x GTS 360mm rad, a GPU waterblock, and a CPU waterblock? Also, can 10 ft. of Ultra Clear tubing give me "extra room" in case I'm hit with noob stupidity while I'm assembling the loop?

10ft of tubing is enough for most builds, with a good bit left over. as far as coolant capacity, it would depend on how much tubing you've used but I'd say anywhere between 1-2L.
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