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post #5481 of 15457
Quote:
Originally Posted by stickg1 View Post

Try to drain a little out into a wine glass or something crystal clear and see if it's still orange.

The reservoir is crystal clear and its orange in there (XSPC Photon 270 made of glass, not acrylic). I would guess its going to be the same color if I put some into a glass.
 
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post #5482 of 15457
Not necessarily. The res could potentially have the same filmy residue as your tubing. It's worth a try.

That is if this isn't a case of discolored coolant.
post #5483 of 15457
I dont think there is any residue in the reservoir. Increasing the pump speed to max drops the coolant level in the res and that newly exposed portion is still crystal.

I'm going to drain the loop anyway, so I'll check it out for s&g's when that time comes.
 
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post #5484 of 15457
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kokin View Post

You are right that is not required, but it is recommended as a precaution and says so right on the bottle label. There have been plenty of people who just flushed with distilled water and still experienced unwanted issues. What harm would it do to spend a dollar getting a box of baking soda and doing 1 or 2 extra flushes compared to getting some sort of issue that could cost you more time and money in the long run?

Don't get me wrong, I've always just used tap water and then distilled water to flush my components, but baking soda does have cleaning properties as well so it's more than reasonable to use it.
I would say 7~10 flushes would be the bare minimum if it's a new radiator.

^^^this
I flush with HOT tap water for several minutes and then flush that out with distilled.
post #5485 of 15457
Quote:
Originally Posted by M4ng03z View Post

^^^this
I flush with HOT tap water for several minutes and then flush that out with distilled.

I boil tap water, flush a few times, then flush twice is cool distilled.
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post #5486 of 15457
Quote:
Originally Posted by theonedub View Post

@Mayhem-
I've been running Mayhems Pastel Sunset Yellow since November 2013 now and its slowly but surely been getting darker and darker. Color started off nice and bright, but now it is about the color of orange juice. Loop has never seen any other coolant- have only used Mayhems Sunset Yellow Pastel mixed with distilled per the instructions. No other additives, chemicals, coils, etc have been added.

Here's the progression:


I don't think this is normal at all. I had wanted to switch over to Mayhems Pastel White, but the color changing like this with white coolant would be pretty awful. Any ideas? I thought I would ask, maybe its a bad batch or something. I'd prefer not to move to distilled w/ a coil, but the coolant is not at all aesthetically pleasing like this.

Thanks,

Sorry for your luck. Great photos, documentation, and explanation! I'm curious to find out the cause. Several people in this thread have had wonderful results with Pastel White with no color changing so something is definitely off for you.

How did you prep your loop before the Mayhems?

Sweet build btw thumb.gif
post #5487 of 15457
I just thought of something, would it be fairly accurate to use an rgb code as a guide for dye ratio to get a desired color?

I'm assuming not, since light and paint/materials operate on slightly different mechanics, at least from what I understand.
post #5488 of 15457
I just finished my Case Labs S5 project.

Here's a couple final shots you can check the log for more wink.gif

Some people will find it to be an odd color theme but this is what I wanted biggrin.gif

Coolant is Raspberry Purple with a ton of blue dye...it's not perfect but I like it that way.



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post #5489 of 15457
I love it, that figurine in there makes me understand the whole loop color scheme better as well thumb.gif
post #5490 of 15457
Thread Starter 
Colour changes are normally down to the rad releasing contaminants into the system over time. When heat is applied this is when you start getting colour changes. We have noted that some manufacturers do not clean there rads very well before sending them to re-sellers or customers. This is not our fault how ever we have been working on a cleaning system that will resolve the issue.

The first part of our solution is a mix of different chemicals and one of them is "Phosphoric Acid" which is a well known cleaner and will clean up copper and solder within 1 to 2 hours. It will take the liquid down to PH 2.2 so is not something you should mess around with too much, how ever once used you can dispose of it down the normal drainage system. The 1st part also contains some surfactants. We would advise you to only use this to wash your rads out separate from the whole system. If you do not this it will strip some plated products especially if left longer than 2 hours. This was noted on Koolance quick release fittings.

The second part of the system is a PH balanced liquid PH 7.2 and contains non ionic surfactants and cleaners. This you should run with the rad placed back in the system and should be run for 24 hours. This will help neutralise any acid or Alkaline components and will not eat away at any fitting or seals. You need to run it in a system that has only the pump powered on so that there is flow around the whole system. Once the flush is complete after 24 hours it then can be emptied down the main darin and then you flush out you system two more times with water and you should now have a completely cleaned system with no issues what so ever.

Advantages of the cleaning system and instructions ->

BETA "Mayhems "BLITZ" cleaning system"

Contents

50ml Part 1 Cleaning System
50ml Part 2 Cleaning System
Rubber gloves
Instructions
Warnings (separate sheet in Bold / Red)

Part 1 -
  • Maximum effectiveness
  • Rapid neutralisation of surface rust and contamination
  • Rigorous removal of mineral scale deposits
  • Excellent suspension of particulates
  • Low foaming.
  • Hard water tolerant
  • Can be disposed of to grey-water drain
  • Easy to handle and straight forward to use
  • Improves heat transfer rate

Usage -
  1. Mix Part one with water to a ratio of 0.025 to 1. So 25ml of part 1 to 975ml of water.
  2. Add to the radiator and clean up any spills immediately.
  3. Vent the system of any trapped air. and cap the radiator.
  4. Recirculate for a maximum of two hours. (shake very 10 min)
  5. After two hours empty down the waste drain. DO NOT LEAVE LONGER THAN TWO HOURS
  6. Refill with fresh water and rise out.
  7. Repeat this 2 times.
  8. Refit to loop and move to part two of the cleaning system.

Part 2 -
  • pH neutral (7pH)
  • Effective neutralisation of bacteria & algae
  • Good removal of slime, silt & detritus
  • Excellent suspension of particulates
  • Hard water tolerant
  • Can be disposed of to grey-water drain
  • Easy to handle and straightforward to use
  • Improves heat transfer rate

Usage -
  1. Drain existing system contents.
  2. Mix Part two with water to a ratio of 0.025 to 1. So 25ml of part 1 to 975ml of water.
  3. Add the part 2 solution to the system.
  4. Vent the system of any trapped air.
  5. Recirculate for a maximum of 24 hours. Regularly check all filters and clean as necessary.
  6. Refill with fresh water.
  7. Run for 30 minutes
  8. Empty out and refill with fresh water.
  9. Run for 30 minutes
  10. Empty out and fill with your favorite coolant.
  11. Your system is now cleaned and ready to use..

This is a real good cleaning system that will do a good job how ever the only down side is, its not a "quick" flush some people expect. If your going to do something, do it well wink.gif.

Btw this system will clean out Aurora fully.
Edited by Mayhem - 3/10/14 at 6:15pm
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