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post #5741 of 15454
Hey guys, I'm curious as to how dark the oil black is. I'm trying to work on my first water cooling set up and i wanted to use a FrozenQ T-Virus reservoir. Being that my intentional build is a red and black them, one of my thoughts was to use red helices in the reservoir with a black coolant. So I'm curious as to whether or not the light and the helices will be able to be seen through the coolant if its used.
post #5742 of 15454
Hold off on the black. It's very sensitive to loops and turns brown easily. Mayhem is currently prototyping a better Black that will work infinitely better than the current supply.
post #5743 of 15454
Quote:
Originally Posted by visianary View Post

Hey guys, I'm curious as to how dark the oil black is. I'm trying to work on my first water cooling set up and i wanted to use a FrozenQ T-Virus reservoir. Being that my intentional build is a red and black them, one of my thoughts was to use red helices in the reservoir with a black coolant. So I'm curious as to whether or not the light and the helices will be able to be seen through the coolant if its used.

It'll be nearly pure black in the res, and a murky semi transparent black in the tubes and other thin parts.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 15goudreau View Post

Hold off on the black. It's very sensitive to loops and turns brown easily. Mayhem is currently prototyping a better Black that will work infinitely better than the current supply.

That's the pastel black that has issues, X1 Oil Black is just black.
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post #5744 of 15454
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZytheEKS View Post

It'll be nearly pure black in the res, and a murky semi transparent black in the tubes and other thin parts.
That's the pastel black that has issues, X1 Oil Black is just black.

Thanks a lot ZtheEKS. In your opinion, what do you think about using the deep purple dye to get a dark colour to substitute for black but that's translucent enough for the light and helices to be visible in the reservoir?
post #5745 of 15454
Quote:
Originally Posted by visianary View Post

Thanks a lot ZtheEKS. In your opinion, what do you think about using the deep purple dye to get a dark colour to substitute for black but that's translucent enough for the light and helices to be visible in the reservoir?

It's really hard to get black black with dyes. If you go with a blue base you need an orange secondary which gives you a brown tint, if you use a red base and a green secondary you get a color similarly to X1, if you use a purple base you need a yellow secondary which would give you a orange/red/brown black. Since your eyes see black as an absence of color, you need dyes that absorb every color. Mixing dyes that absorb every color is hard....

What I'd recommend is going with blood red instead. What color helix do you have in there, and what color cathode do you have in there?
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post #5746 of 15454
Is the digital ph meters is the only way to test dyed water? I have blood red coolant (distilled + red dye only) which I stored in the closet for a year. Digital ph meters not available around here unfortunately. I have small copper rod that I can throw in the bottle & see whether it reacts with the dyed water. LOL
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post #5747 of 15454
Quote:
Originally Posted by kizwan View Post

Is the digital ph meters is the only way to test dyed water? I have blood red coolant (distilled + red dye only) which I stored in the closet for a year. Digital ph meters not available around here unfortunately. I have small copper rod that I can throw in the bottle & see whether it reacts with the dyed water. LOL

The problem with a litmus paper type test is that your dyed fluid will dye the Paper so the color indicator would be off.

Putting a copper rod in probably wouldn't give you much a reaction or would at least take a long long time to do so.
post #5748 of 15454
Use of a local laboratory for a PH test runs about $7 but I have an account there for my business. If you have a local computer user's group you belong to, ya might be able to cut a better deal if the lab wants more for a "one of" kinda thing.
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post #5749 of 15454
I'm getting ready to install a new graphics card and waterblock, so I will need to drain the coolant most likely. Given that, I am using Mayhem's Pastel and was wondering if I should change it out fully at this time. It's been in my system for just over 1 year now.

Thanks
post #5750 of 15454
Pastel lasts at least 2 years. I think it's maximum is 3 years.
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