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post #5841 of 15457
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZytheEKS View Post

Not entirely true, glycol and copper sulfate react to create the infamous gunk. That isn't an issue here since pastel isn't a glycol based coolant, but there are the facts.
Okay thumb.gif
post #5842 of 15457
Can anyone help me out?
Well im planning on using the Aluminum Crosschill blocks on my Maximus VI formula, with a nickel Cpu block, and a COPPER Rad. the question i have is iv heard some pretty bad stuff about using Aluminum with copper, and if i use pastel red , would i be safe from corrosion? Thanks.
post #5843 of 15457
Quote:
Originally Posted by ROGX View Post

Can anyone help me out?
Well im planning on using the Aluminum Crosschill blocks on my Maximus VI formula, with a nickel Cpu block, and a COPPER Rad. the question i have is iv heard some pretty bad stuff about using Aluminum with copper, and if i use pastel red , would i be safe from corrosion? Thanks.

Aluminum is terrible in loops because it reacts with the copper, and rapidly corrodes. The aluminum in the crosschill blocks in anodized, which prevents it from reacting with the water, if it can't react with water it can't react with the copper. Anodized aluminum isn't the best thermal transfer medium but motherboards don't make much heat to begin with so it should be fine.
The Laboratory
(11 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
AMD FX-8350 Vishera 8-Core 4.0GHz Asus Crosshair V Formula-Z Radeon R9 290X Generic 1333MHz R.A.M. 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
Wester Digital 5400RPM HP CH20L "The Russian Winter" Windows 8 
KeyboardPowerCase
Steel Series Merc Fatal1ty 1000Watt PSU DIY Rig 
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The Laboratory
(11 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
AMD FX-8350 Vishera 8-Core 4.0GHz Asus Crosshair V Formula-Z Radeon R9 290X Generic 1333MHz R.A.M. 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
Wester Digital 5400RPM HP CH20L "The Russian Winter" Windows 8 
KeyboardPowerCase
Steel Series Merc Fatal1ty 1000Watt PSU DIY Rig 
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post #5844 of 15457
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZytheEKS View Post

Aluminum is terrible in loops because it reacts with the copper, and rapidly corrodes. The aluminum in the crosschill blocks in anodized, which prevents it from reacting with the water, if it can't react with water it can't react with the copper. Anodized aluminum isn't the best thermal transfer medium but motherboards don't make much heat to begin with so it should be fine.

This ^^^^^, it hasn't caused me any issues with my crosschill block in the loop.
post #5845 of 15457
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimhans1 View Post

This ^^^^^, it hasn't caused me any issues with my crosschill block in the loop.

Cool, how long have you been using it? And what Coolant are you using? Sorry lol, I just don't want to get corrosion and screw up my entire loop, and have to buy new blocks etc..
post #5846 of 15457
Quote:
Originally Posted by ROGX View Post

Cool, how long have you been using it? And what Coolant are you using? Sorry lol, I just don't want to get corrosion and screw up my entire loop, and have to buy new blocks etc..

As long as you don't run any acids or stripping agents through your loop the anodized surface should never wear off. Anodized aluminum in of itself is quite simply corroded aluminum. Basically they make the block corrode very lightly, which creates a non reactive layer of material over the block preventing it from reacting with the water. Again, it's not the best option for thermal transfer but the motherboard doesn't make much heat to begin with so it's fine.
The Laboratory
(11 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
AMD FX-8350 Vishera 8-Core 4.0GHz Asus Crosshair V Formula-Z Radeon R9 290X Generic 1333MHz R.A.M. 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
Wester Digital 5400RPM HP CH20L "The Russian Winter" Windows 8 
KeyboardPowerCase
Steel Series Merc Fatal1ty 1000Watt PSU DIY Rig 
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Reply
The Laboratory
(11 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
AMD FX-8350 Vishera 8-Core 4.0GHz Asus Crosshair V Formula-Z Radeon R9 290X Generic 1333MHz R.A.M. 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
Wester Digital 5400RPM HP CH20L "The Russian Winter" Windows 8 
KeyboardPowerCase
Steel Series Merc Fatal1ty 1000Watt PSU DIY Rig 
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post #5847 of 15457
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZytheEKS View Post

As long as you don't run any acids or stripping agents through your loop the anodized surface should never wear off. Anodized aluminum in of itself is quite simply corroded aluminum. Basically they make the block corrode very lightly, which creates a non reactive layer of material over the block preventing it from reacting with the water. Again, it's not the best option for thermal transfer but the motherboard doesn't make much heat to begin with so it's fine.

Thanks for the help! Completely new too water cooling.
post #5848 of 15457
Quote:
Originally Posted by ROGX View Post

Cool, how long have you been using it? And what Coolant are you using? Sorry lol, I just don't want to get corrosion and screw up my entire loop, and have to buy new blocks etc..

Lol, since the day the board was released, actually, the day after, I've built so many systems lately I don't honestly remember. 6-8 months so far? I was running Pastel Red up until this last weekend, I've drained the system and pulled it apart for the new cards to go in, and I've seen zero issue aside from a little bit of staining from the red Dye in the coolant. Otherwise, it's perfect, as were the old blocks for the GPU and CPU.
post #5849 of 15457
Hey guys just wondering is it safe to run my new fresh loop with DI water onky for a few hours with no other additives then add a pastel color to the res? Or should I flush my loop as best as possible then mix the color in a DI water bottle then add it?
post #5850 of 15457
Quote:
Originally Posted by z0ki View Post

Hey guys just wondering is it safe to run my new fresh loop with DI water onky for a few hours with no other additives then add a pastel color to the res? Or should I flush my loop as best as possible then mix the color in a DI water bottle then add it?

Flush, mix your coolant and then add to the loop.
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