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post #5961 of 15648
Hi, I have a brand new loop, all 100% new parts... with an Alphacool Repack Dual Bay Res. I filled my loop, leak tested, and ran pure distilled water for about a day and a half with no discernible problems. At this point I drained some of the coolant to make room, and added about 200 mL of Mayhem's X1 clear concentrate. A couple hours after I added the X1, I started noticing some clouding. Is this expected, is it something I need to be concerned about?
post #5962 of 15648
Quote:
Originally Posted by akira749 View Post

Ok question for the color mixers gurus biggrin.gif

I'm trying to achieve this color
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

I was thinking the obvious like White Pastel Base + Red or Deep Red dye.

Is it ok or will I have to add some blue or else?


Thanks thumb.gif

You definitely will need red and blue when starting with white to get to that. You will definitely have to be careful to not darken it too much.

It is possible you could get pastel purple for a pretty close match and I think you'd put a little bit extra red in there...however, you may overdarken that way too Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
post #5963 of 15648
Quote:
Originally Posted by e64462 View Post

Hi, I have a brand new loop, all 100% new parts... with an Alphacool Repack Dual Bay Res. I filled my loop, leak tested, and ran pure distilled water for about a day and a half with no discernible problems. At this point I drained some of the coolant to make room, and added about 200 mL of Mayhem's X1 clear concentrate. A couple hours after I added the X1, I started noticing some clouding. Is this expected, is it something I need to be concerned about?

You need to clean out your radiators with more than just distilled. Especially radiators. You need to rinse them generally with something acidic like vinegar and then neutralize it with something basic like baking soda (Sodium Bicarbonate). Most likely you will have to get some new X1. Also make sure you are using Primochill Advanced LRT tubes, else you will get plasticizer buildup in your blocks. (if you are using flex tubing).
post #5964 of 15648
Quote:
Originally Posted by e64462 View Post

Hi, I have a brand new loop, all 100% new parts... with an Alphacool Repack Dual Bay Res. I filled my loop, leak tested, and ran pure distilled water for about a day and a half with no discernible problems. At this point I drained some of the coolant to make room, and added about 200 mL of Mayhem's X1 clear concentrate. A couple hours after I added the X1, I started noticing some clouding. Is this expected, is it something I need to be concerned about?

Quote:
Originally Posted by 15goudreau View Post

You need to clean out your radiators with more than just distilled. Especially radiators. You need to rinse them generally with something acidic like vinegar and then neutralize it with something basic like baking soda (Sodium Bicarbonate). Most likely you will have to get some new X1. Also make sure you are using Primochill Advanced LRT tubes, else you will get plasticizer buildup in your blocks. (if you are using flex tubing).

Also, FOLLOW the mixing instructions on the coolant your using. DRAIN the loop, and fill it with properly mixed coolant, unless you know the exact amount of fluid in your system, and drained exactly enough to pour in the concentrate, the way you did it isn't recommended.
post #5965 of 15648
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimhans1 View Post


Also, FOLLOW the mixing instructions on the coolant your using. DRAIN the loop, and fill it with properly mixed coolant, unless you know the exact amount of fluid in your system, and drained exactly enough to pour in the concentrate, the way you did it isn't recommended.

This. The mix ratio is pretty important and just eyeballing is too imprecise to tell if you did it correctly.

Sooooo, always mix out of your loop. Even if you somehow did get the ratio just right in your loop, you are keeping all of the contaminants that were in the loop already. Radiators especially have a lot of crap that will cause weird results.

At this point, you should drain everything, do a complete flush of the system, mix your X1 solution, then fill your loop. After draining, inspect everything for any residue and clean or replace as needed.
post #5966 of 15648
Quote:
Originally Posted by ROGX View Post

Hey Mayhem, im going to watercool, and i really want to use your Pastel red, but in some pics, it looks Kinda pink.. but i cant decide if i should do Pastel red + Clear tubing OR Clear Coolant/H20 + Red tubing. Which do you think will look better? and sorry (im completly knew to the watercooling world) but which tubing size should i get? im pretty confused about it , im looking for something not to big, or to small. Thanks for the help!

Been away a while so sorry for the old response .... yes....it is a bit pink..... My sons kept asking me if I was cooling my box with "strawberry slushies" from 7-elevem smile.gif

I'd strongly suggest waiting till the rad cleaner kit is available..... I thoroughly cleaned and pre-treated my rads going quite a bit beyond the "accepted procedures"..... put red pastel in at end of October and added 2 bottles of red dye a month later to get closer to "RoG / Mushkin" Red .... noticed no change in coloring for about 4 months. At that point I did some stress testing with AVX at low fan speeds which took my temps up from the normal 74C to about 84C. Dunno if that triggered anything (Coolant temps were in mid 30s) but my coolant color changed almost overnight.....at first I thot it was my old eyes but son came home a week later and confirmed.

Again, I pretreated my rads with both acidic and base solutions, flushed them with tap water for hours, final flushes w/ DW, ran a week on DW before putting in pastel mix. Four months of no chage and then within a week .... :





I'm letting it sit until FCPU has the new rad prep kits.... until then I will wrestle with the decision of whether to refill with pastel or the new aurora.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Stuntfly02 View Post

Last weekend I drained and cleaned everything out. I flushed the entire system with a vinegar solution, then with a bicarb solution. Which was fun to watch at first cause I didn't drain 1 of my blocks completely(remember those volcano science projects?). Then I ran plain distilled for 2 hours then drained and repeated 4 times. Then I refilled the system with the pastel.

Oops ..... Best to do a tap water flush in between the acidic and base soakings to skip the science project smile.gif..... I did hot water baths, hi flow alternating hot and cold (HFAHC) tap water flushes, acidic bath, HFAHC tap water flushes, base bath, HFAHC tap water flushes, 2 DW flushes, a week on DW before coolant


Quote:
Originally Posted by ROGX View Post

Can anyone help me out?
Well im planning on using the Aluminum Crosschill blocks on my Maximus VI formula, with a nickel Cpu block, and a COPPER Rad. the question i have is iv heard some pretty bad stuff about using Aluminum with copper, and if i use pastel red , would i be safe from corrosion? Thanks.

Been using anodized aluminum in highly corrosive environments for over 25 years where it holds up better than stainless steel in many instances. As a owner of the M6F MoBo, I have absolutely no corrosion concerns about the water block..... the solder used in the rads is of much greater concern to me than the anodized block.

As for heat transfer....aluminum is about half as good as copper and twice as good as nickel

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/thermal-conductivity-d_429.html

Copper 401
Aluminum 205
Nickel 91

However the anodizing layer has about 1/10th the heat transfer capability as the bare metal. But the fact of the matter is it is entirely insignificant .... the block has to transfer about 20 watts and given the large surface area, that's waaaay more than enuff to handle the load. I have yet to see any MoBo / VRM temps above 41C.


Quote:
Originally Posted by z0ki View Post

Hey guys just wondering is it safe to run my new fresh loop with DI water onky for a few hours with no other additives then add a pastel color to the res? Or should I flush my loop as best as possible then mix the color in a DI water bottle then add it?

I ran a week on DI .... was glad i did and also glad had a plexi top on the CPU Block..... found several paint flakes which had dislodged themselves from fitting or rad threads that wound up jammed up in the CPU Block.....a reverse flush took care of them. I reflushed twice with new DW and then added the Pastel.


Quote:
Originally Posted by z0ki View Post

Will it matter if i don't flush all the liquid from rads, like if there is still some left will it matter?

I got 3 rads in my 900D and im sure if i were to flush it some liquid will still be left somewhere inside

The purpose of the final flush in my eyes is to get out any contaminants out that may haveleached out with the aid of a working system at elevated temperatures. So yes, I would make every effort to get it all out..... that doesn't necessarily mean dry.... you can get it out by displacement. After a the normal acid / base flush, numerous flushes and a week on DI, I flushed with tap water for a good 15 minutes ...then about 6 liters of DW was flushed thru, saving the last 2 liters for the pastel mix.


Quote:
Originally Posted by DarthBaggins View Post

Anyone know of any issues with acrylic tubing?

What kind of issues.... it's worry free once installed provided you do it right ..... two ways to go..... straight tubes at right angles with fittings or bent acrylic..... fittings is a greater cost investment, bent is a bigger time investment. See the acrylic tube thread for lots of tips and pics of both.


Quote:
Originally Posted by M3TAl View Post

Do I need to nuke the whole system with vinegar mix and then the bicarb? AH just so mad.gifmad.gifmad.gif right now!

Again, I'd wait for the rad flush / prep kit (Blitz) from Mayhems .... the acid / base baths and subsequent flushing proved inadequate in my case


Quote:
Originally Posted by M3TAl View Post

I kind of knew in the back of my mind these Alphacool rads were somehow to blame. Considering I need to get my system "clean" right now and not later; will cleaning with vinegar, then bicarb, then rinse with distilled be sufficient?

Given my experience as evidenced by the pics above, I'd say no.....still stumped by the no reaction for 4 months and then bam, literally over a day or 2 was all changed.
Edited by JackNaylorPE - 4/17/14 at 2:27pm
911 Carrera
(20 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel w/ EK Supremacy Cooling Block - Clean P... Asus Maximus VI Formula 2 x Asus GTX 780 DCII w/ EK Full Cover Blocks a... Mushkin Red Line Ridgeback 2 x 8GB DDR302400 10... 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
2 x SAMSUNG 840 Pro Series MZ-7PD256BW 2.5" 256GB (2 x Seagate ST2000DX001 2TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cach... Asus BW-12B1ST/BLK/G/AS Blue Ray Writer 1 x Alphacool NexXxoS XT45-420 + 1 x Alphacool ... 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
1 x Swiftech 35x2 w/ Heatsink and NB Fan EK -MultiOption RES X3 250 White Acetal Reservoir 5 x PH-F140SP_BK_BLED + 5 x PH-F140SP_BK E22 Rigid 10/12 Acrylic Tubing and Bitspower Ma... 
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2 x Reeven Six Eyes Fan Controller Windows 7 64 Bit Professional OEM ASUS VG248QE Black 23" 144 Hz Monitor Logitech G19s 920-004985 
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911 Carrera
(20 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel w/ EK Supremacy Cooling Block - Clean P... Asus Maximus VI Formula 2 x Asus GTX 780 DCII w/ EK Full Cover Blocks a... Mushkin Red Line Ridgeback 2 x 8GB DDR302400 10... 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
2 x SAMSUNG 840 Pro Series MZ-7PD256BW 2.5" 256GB (2 x Seagate ST2000DX001 2TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cach... Asus BW-12B1ST/BLK/G/AS Blue Ray Writer 1 x Alphacool NexXxoS XT45-420 + 1 x Alphacool ... 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
1 x Swiftech 35x2 w/ Heatsink and NB Fan EK -MultiOption RES X3 250 White Acetal Reservoir 5 x PH-F140SP_BK_BLED + 5 x PH-F140SP_BK E22 Rigid 10/12 Acrylic Tubing and Bitspower Ma... 
CoolingOSMonitorKeyboard
2 x Reeven Six Eyes Fan Controller Windows 7 64 Bit Professional OEM ASUS VG248QE Black 23" 144 Hz Monitor Logitech G19s 920-004985 
PowerCaseMouseAudio
Seasonic X-1250 Phanteks Enthoo Primo Ultimate Chassis Asus RoG GX950 Laser Mouse  Logitech Z5500 
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post #5967 of 15648
I keep forgetting about that new aurora.... argh so many choices. What exactly are the issue blocks with aurora? anything that isn't a straight channel block?
post #5968 of 15648
Quote:
Originally Posted by 15goudreau View Post

I keep forgetting about that new aurora.... argh so many choices. What exactly are the issue blocks with aurora? anything that isn't a straight channel block?

Even some straight channel blocks can have issues because of the injection plate. Your best bet is the ek supremacy with a J3 injection plate or no injection plate
The Laboratory
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The Laboratory
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post #5969 of 15648
I was thinking of picking up the supremacy eventually because I'm just using the XSPC RASA waterblock atm.... want that clear acrylic... That's good to know Hopefully it plans nice with my EK gpu blocks. +1
post #5970 of 15648
Quote:
Originally Posted by 15goudreau View Post

I was thinking of picking up the supremacy eventually because I'm just using the XSPC RASA waterblock atm.... want that clear acrylic... That's good to know Hopefully it plans nice with my EK gpu blocks. +1

As far as I'm aware Aurora doesn't have issues with GPU blocks, there's not really any part of the block the particles can settle in, just be sure you have sufficient pump power to keep flowrates up there, and try to stick with single row radiators.
The Laboratory
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The Laboratory
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